Follow this link for the full, inside story on Vibrocore.

Follow this link for the full, inside story on Vibrocore.

Radially Compliant Rim Designs, such as Spank Industries Spank 350, Spank 350 Vibrocore, Spank 359, and Spank 359 Vibrocore rim models, must be built to A-Level specifications, and only by a qualified wheel builder/technician. 

External Nipple Washers should be used on all Spank 350 and Spank 359 rim wheel builds. Spank highly recommends the use of nipple washers to improve spoke tension longevity in Radially Compliant wheels. 

Spank 350 Vibrocore and 359 Vibrocore rims produced May 2019 or later, include embedded nipple washers. Spank 350 Vibrocore and 359 Vibrocore rims produced before May 2019, do not include embedded nipple washers. If nipple washers are used, it is important to first ensure the nipple access holes are completely free of Vibrocore, and no Vibrocore or residue exists between rim and nipple washer. 

Spokes used in Radially Compliant Wheel builds, must be high quality, with high fatigue life, and break point over 300 kg. Single Butted/Plain Gauge spokes are not sufficient for radial compliant wheels. Spank recommends Triple Butted Spokes, of 2.2/1.8/2.0 mm thickness. 

Nipples used in Radially Compliant Wheel builds, must be flat head, external type nipples. Internal Nipples, or DSN/Square Drive nipples are not suitable. 

3 Cross Lacing must be used on all Radially Compliant rim wheel builds. 

350 Vibrocore and 359 Vibrocore rims, should be checked carefully to ensure no Vibrocore or residue exists between nipple head and rim.  If any traces if Vibrocore or residue are present, they should be scraped away before nipples are inserted into the rim for building. 

Spoke Tension on the drive-side spokes of Radially Compliant rim wheel builds, is recommended at 120-140 kgf. 

Spoke tension throughout drive side spokes should not vary more than 5% maximum. 

Spoke tension throughout non-drive side spokes should not vary more than 5% maximum. 

Nipple Lubricant must be used between nipple head and rim interface. Lubricant must not be used on thread of spoke or nipple. 

Light to Medium Thread Lock, which allows for tension adjustments without compromising function, (example: LOCTITE® THREADLOCKER BLUE 242®), must be applied on thread of spoke or nipple, before tensioning. A suitable environmentally conscious alternative to industrial thread lock agents, is boiled linseed oil. 

Roundness Tolerance requirement for Radially Compliant rim wheel builds is 0.4mm deviation maximum. 

Flatness Tolerance requirement for Radially Compliant rim wheel builds is 0.3mm deviation maximum. 

Dish Tolerance requirement for Radially Compliant rim wheel builds is 0.4mm deviation maximum. 

Maintenance Requirements – Radially Compliant Wheels should be checked for spoke tension stability/loosening, after your first few rides, and regularly for the life of the wheelset (depending on frequency and severity of use). 

Radially Compliant Rim Designs, such as Spank Industries Spank 350, Spank 350 Vibrocore, Spank 359, and Spank 359 Vibrocore rim models, must be built to A-Level specifications, and only by a qualified wheel builder/technician. 

External Nipple Washers should be used on all Spank 350 and Spank 359 rim wheel builds. Spank highly recommends the use of nipple washers to improve spoke tension longevity in Radially Compliant wheels. 

Spank 350 Vibrocore and 359 Vibrocore rims produced May 2019 or later, include embedded nipple washers. Spank 350 Vibrocore and 359 Vibrocore rims produced before May 2019, do not include embedded nipple washers. If nipple washers are used, it is important to first ensure the nipple access holes are completely free of Vibrocore, and no Vibrocore or residue exists between rim and nipple washer. 

Spokes used in Radially Compliant Wheel builds, must be high quality, with high fatigue life, and break point over 300 kg. Single Butted/Plain Gauge spokes are not sufficient for radial compliant wheels. Spank recommends Triple Butted Spokes, of 2.2/1.8/2.0 mm thickness. 

Nipples used in Radially Compliant Wheel builds, must be flat head, external type nipples. Internal Nipples, or DSN/Square Drive nipples are not suitable. 

3 Cross Lacing must be used on all Radially Compliant rim wheel builds. 

350 Vibrocore and 359 Vibrocore rims, should be checked carefully to ensure no Vibrocore or residue exists between nipple head and rim.  If any traces if Vibrocore or residue are present, they should be scraped away before nipples are inserted into the rim for building. 

Spoke Tension on the drive-side spokes of Radially Compliant rim wheel builds, is recommended at 120-140 kgf. 

Spoke tension throughout drive side spokes should not vary more than 5% maximum. 

Spoke tension throughout non-drive side spokes should not vary more than 5% maximum. 

Nipple Lubricant must be used between nipple head and rim interface. Lubricant must not be used on thread of spoke or nipple. 

Light to Medium Thread Lock, which allows for tension adjustments without compromising function, (example: LOCTITE® THREADLOCKER BLUE 242®), must be applied on thread of spoke or nipple, before tensioning. A suitable environmentally conscious alternative to industrial thread lock agents, is boiled linseed oil. 

Roundness Tolerance requirement for Radially Compliant rim wheel builds is 0.4mm deviation maximum. 

Flatness Tolerance requirement for Radially Compliant rim wheel builds is 0.3mm deviation maximum. 

Dish Tolerance requirement for Radially Compliant rim wheel builds is 0.4mm deviation maximum. 

Maintenance Requirements – Radially Compliant Wheels should be checked for spoke tension stability/loosening, after your first few rides, and regularly for the life of the wheelset (depending on frequency and severity of use). 

Quick Answer:
SPIKE – Downhill/Bike Park/Freeride/Enduro/Aggressive All Mountain
OOZY – XC/Trail/All Mountain/Lite-Enduro/Touring/Gravel Bikes & Cyclocross
SPOON – All Mountain/Bike Park/Freeride/Downhill
Spank Industries produces rims for almost every discipline of MTB. Spank rims are also enjoyed by many non-mountain bike riders. Picking the right rim profile depends on a number of factors. Those include the riding discipline you plan to do most (ex. Downhill Race vs Trail), your personal riding level, style and preferences for the performance and feel of your bike/wheels, the type of terrain you ride most often, tire preferences, and your own body size.

As a simple reference, Spank Industries divides our products into product lines SPIKE, OOZY, and SPOON, each with an intended riding type. Within each of these product lines, Spank offers several options for rim profiles, which will enhance certain characteristics. When choosing the right rim profile for you, it’s important first to determine from which line you should be picking (ex. SPIKE for DH Race applications), then to choose the right model within that line.

SPIKE – Weight Optimized Gravity MTB Products

Suggested use: Downhill/Bike Park/Freeride/Enduro/Aggressive All Mountain

SPIKE 350 Vibrocore – 30mm Inner Width / 510-545g

SPIKE Race 33 – 28mm Inner Width / 480-500g

SPIKE Race 28 – 22.5mm Inner Width / 480-510g

OOZY – Weight Optimized Trail MTB Products

Suggested use: XC/Trail/All Mountain/Lite-Enduro/Touring/Gravel Bikes & Cyclocross

OOZY Trail 395+ - 35mm Inner Width / 560-590g

OOZY Trail 345 – 30mm Inner Width / 520-540g
OOZY 350 – 30mm Inner Width / 465-495g

OOZY Trail 295 – 25mm Inner Width / 450-490g
SPOON – Value Oriented All-Round MTB Products

Suggested use: All Mountain/Bike Park/Freeride/Downhill

Spoon 32 – 26.7mm Inner Width / 620-650g

Spoon 28 – 22mm Inner Width / offered only in 20” and 24” sizes
The most important differences between rims in each product line, are the rim’s weight, and the rim’s width.

 

Rim Weight – Simplified, lighter rims will accelerate faster with less energy, but they will be less durable than heavier options due to thinner wall thicknesses. Choosing a lighter rim model will suit riders who spend a lot of time climbing rather than descending, those who frequent relatively gentle riding locations, or riders who are lightweight themselves or exceptionally smooth, and don’t often break equipment. Light weight options are also favored by those who race or compete on their bikes, however a balance must exist with the strength and durability required in each case.

Rim Width – Rim width is important for a number of reasons, most notably, stiffness, traction, comfort, tubeless performance, tire stability, and tire selection. Obviously as rim profiles get wider, weights will normally increase, so the benefits of wide rims must be balanced with your desired rim weight. By understanding the benefits of wider and narrower rims, you should be able to gauge which are most important to you, to find your own personal perfect profile.

Stiffness - Wider rim profiles are inherently stiffer than narrower profiles of similar wall thickness. Thus, picking a wider rim within a product line, will mean it’s going to offer more lateral and radial stiffness in most cases. Note: some rim profiles have been designed specifically to enhance radial compliance and improve comfort and tracking ability.
Traction - Wider rims spread out tires more than narrow rims, meaning more tire surface area will contact the ground, leading to enhanced traction between the tire and terrain. In most cases this is a positive. However, more traction equals more rolling resistance, which means you must put more energy into pedaling to achieve the same result. For riders looking for maximum traction in loose or steep terrain, wider rims are suggested. For riders who spend a lot of time pedaling and climbing, who will not benefit highly from enhanced traction, a narrower rim may be preferred.
Comfort – A wide rim profile will have a higher air volume than a narrow rim profile, with the same sized tire. Added air volume means more cushioning between you and the ground, and improved absorption of impacts and vibrations, which adds to the comfort factor of your riding experience. Added to this, wider rim profiles paired with wide tires, mean lower air pressures can be used, which will reduce the harshness of your ride.
Tubeless Performance – If your goal is to use your Spank rims without tubes, it is highly recommended that you pick the widest rim within your desired weight range, and tire size preference. Wider rims as a rule are better suited for tubeless use than narrow ones, especially at lower air pressures. The reason for this is as the tire beads are spread out wider, the side walls of the tire become more upright and stable. This improves their ability to withstand side load and impact forces without buckling. When a tubeless tire side wall buckles, it can often lead to a “burp” or loss of air pressure, or even tire pinch flat (snake bite). Narrow rims can be used for tubeless set ups, but you must be more careful with your tire selection, to make sure that a matching narrow profile tire is used, for optimal performance, or that higher air pressures are used to stabilize tire sidewalls.
Tire Stability – Similarly to the effect outlined above in tubeless performance, whether in tubed or tubeless applications, tires stability is optimized when the rims and tires are paired properly. Wide rims will increase tire side wall integrity with wide tires, which reduces the feeling of “squirm” when riding, and reduces the chances of tire sidewalls collapsing or buckling, which leads to burps or pinch flats, especially at low air pressures. Riders who prefer wider tires, or riding at lower pressures will benefit from wider rim profiles.
Tire Selection – As a rule, it is suggested to always stay within ETRTO suggested rim/tire pairing parameters for width. Mounting very wide tires on narrow rims, or very narrow tires on wide rims, can lead to poor tire performance, excessive flats, and even tire blow-off situations which can be very dangerous. Narrow rim profiles are going to optimize the performance of narrow tires (1.5”-2.3”), or will require high air pressures to stabilize wider tires. Wider rim profiles will optimize the performance of wider tires (2.3”-3.0”), and facilitate riding at lower air pressures. It is important to understand what type tire size and profile you will ride with most often when selecting your rims. Rounder tire profiles are not as prone to “squaring off” when spread on a wide rim, while tires with very pronounced side wall knobs (such as DH tires) are more susceptible to this issue. For this reason, when pairing with DH tires or other relatively square profile tires, it’s not suggested to use an overly wide rim. Spank’s SPIKE rim series includes 22.5mm, 28mm, and 30mm inner width rims, which are perfect for 2.3-2.6” aggressive tread tires. Inversely, riders who prefer less aggressive “trail tread” tires, (which remain fairly round profiled whether paired with a wide rim or narrow one), may choose to benefit from the added traction and comfort of a wider rim, or may prefer the reduced rolling resistance and speed of a narrow rim.
Once you’ve put your finger on the characteristics you are looking for in your next set of rims, it’s easy to find the perfect spank rim for you!

*If you enjoy trail and all mountain riding, with a little bit of more aggressive Enduro style here and there, then Oozy rims are probably perfect for you. If you are looking for pure speed, and you’re not an overly rough or heavy rider, then we’d suggest Oozy Trail 295. If you want something that’s going to enhance traction, and take a bit more of a beating, and a few extra grams aren’t the end of the world, then we suggest Oozy Trail 345. If you want to run + size wheels and always use wide tires, crave the most possible traction, and/or simply want the stiffest, toughest and widest trail rims you can buy, then go for the Oozy Trail 395+.

*If Downhill, Freeride, or Bike Park riding is your thing, then we suggest to go with either Spoon 32 rims if you are looking for a value oriented wheelset that can still take a lot of punishment, or Spike wheels if you want the best you can get on a reasonable budget. Spike Race 28 rims and wheels are very popular with DJ, urban FR, and park riders, as they are narrow enough to keep tires round and rolling very fast. Spike Race 33 rims and wheels are more popular with mountain Freeriders, DH Racers, and Mountain Bike Park riders, as they offer a happy medium of ample tire spread for enhanced traction, light weight, and killer strength. The top of the line Spike 350 Vibrocore offers maximum tire spread and traction, high lateral stiffness, unmatched radial compliance, as well as Spank’s vibration damping Vibrocore inner core.

Quick Answer:
SPIKE – Downhill/Bike Park/Freeride/Enduro/Aggressive All Mountain
OOZY – XC/Trail/All Mountain/Lite-Enduro/Touring/Gravel Bikes & Cyclocross
SPOON – All Mountain/Bike Park/Freeride/Downhill
Spank Industries produces rims for almost every discipline of MTB. Spank rims are also enjoyed by many non-mountain bike riders. Picking the right rim profile depends on a number of factors. Those include the riding discipline you plan to do most (ex. Downhill Race vs Trail), your personal riding level, style and preferences for the performance and feel of your bike/wheels, the type of terrain you ride most often, tire preferences, and your own body size.

As a simple reference, Spank Industries divides our products into product lines SPIKE, OOZY, and SPOON, each with an intended riding type. Within each of these product lines, Spank offers several options for rim profiles, which will enhance certain characteristics. When choosing the right rim profile for you, it’s important first to determine from which line you should be picking (ex. SPIKE for DH Race applications), then to choose the right model within that line.

SPIKE – Weight Optimized Gravity MTB Products

Suggested use: Downhill/Bike Park/Freeride/Enduro/Aggressive All Mountain

SPIKE 350 Vibrocore – 30mm Inner Width / 510-545g

SPIKE Race 33 – 28mm Inner Width / 480-500g

SPIKE Race 28 – 22.5mm Inner Width / 480-510g

OOZY – Weight Optimized Trail MTB Products

Suggested use: XC/Trail/All Mountain/Lite-Enduro/Touring/Gravel Bikes & Cyclocross

OOZY Trail 395+ - 35mm Inner Width / 560-590g

OOZY Trail 345 – 30mm Inner Width / 520-540g
OOZY 350 – 30mm Inner Width / 465-495g

OOZY Trail 295 – 25mm Inner Width / 450-490g
SPOON – Value Oriented All-Round MTB Products

Suggested use: All Mountain/Bike Park/Freeride/Downhill

Spoon 32 – 26.7mm Inner Width / 620-650g

Spoon 28 – 22mm Inner Width / offered only in 20” and 24” sizes
The most important differences between rims in each product line, are the rim’s weight, and the rim’s width.

 

Rim Weight – Simplified, lighter rims will accelerate faster with less energy, but they will be less durable than heavier options due to thinner wall thicknesses. Choosing a lighter rim model will suit riders who spend a lot of time climbing rather than descending, those who frequent relatively gentle riding locations, or riders who are lightweight themselves or exceptionally smooth, and don’t often break equipment. Light weight options are also favored by those who race or compete on their bikes, however a balance must exist with the strength and durability required in each case.

Rim Width – Rim width is important for a number of reasons, most notably, stiffness, traction, comfort, tubeless performance, tire stability, and tire selection. Obviously as rim profiles get wider, weights will normally increase, so the benefits of wide rims must be balanced with your desired rim weight. By understanding the benefits of wider and narrower rims, you should be able to gauge which are most important to you, to find your own personal perfect profile.

Stiffness - Wider rim profiles are inherently stiffer than narrower profiles of similar wall thickness. Thus, picking a wider rim within a product line, will mean it’s going to offer more lateral and radial stiffness in most cases. Note: some rim profiles have been designed specifically to enhance radial compliance and improve comfort and tracking ability.
Traction - Wider rims spread out tires more than narrow rims, meaning more tire surface area will contact the ground, leading to enhanced traction between the tire and terrain. In most cases this is a positive. However, more traction equals more rolling resistance, which means you must put more energy into pedaling to achieve the same result. For riders looking for maximum traction in loose or steep terrain, wider rims are suggested. For riders who spend a lot of time pedaling and climbing, who will not benefit highly from enhanced traction, a narrower rim may be preferred.
Comfort – A wide rim profile will have a higher air volume than a narrow rim profile, with the same sized tire. Added air volume means more cushioning between you and the ground, and improved absorption of impacts and vibrations, which adds to the comfort factor of your riding experience. Added to this, wider rim profiles paired with wide tires, mean lower air pressures can be used, which will reduce the harshness of your ride.
Tubeless Performance – If your goal is to use your Spank rims without tubes, it is highly recommended that you pick the widest rim within your desired weight range, and tire size preference. Wider rims as a rule are better suited for tubeless use than narrow ones, especially at lower air pressures. The reason for this is as the tire beads are spread out wider, the side walls of the tire become more upright and stable. This improves their ability to withstand side load and impact forces without buckling. When a tubeless tire side wall buckles, it can often lead to a “burp” or loss of air pressure, or even tire pinch flat (snake bite). Narrow rims can be used for tubeless set ups, but you must be more careful with your tire selection, to make sure that a matching narrow profile tire is used, for optimal performance, or that higher air pressures are used to stabilize tire sidewalls.
Tire Stability – Similarly to the effect outlined above in tubeless performance, whether in tubed or tubeless applications, tires stability is optimized when the rims and tires are paired properly. Wide rims will increase tire side wall integrity with wide tires, which reduces the feeling of “squirm” when riding, and reduces the chances of tire sidewalls collapsing or buckling, which leads to burps or pinch flats, especially at low air pressures. Riders who prefer wider tires, or riding at lower pressures will benefit from wider rim profiles.
Tire Selection – As a rule, it is suggested to always stay within ETRTO suggested rim/tire pairing parameters for width. Mounting very wide tires on narrow rims, or very narrow tires on wide rims, can lead to poor tire performance, excessive flats, and even tire blow-off situations which can be very dangerous. Narrow rim profiles are going to optimize the performance of narrow tires (1.5”-2.3”), or will require high air pressures to stabilize wider tires. Wider rim profiles will optimize the performance of wider tires (2.3”-3.0”), and facilitate riding at lower air pressures. It is important to understand what type tire size and profile you will ride with most often when selecting your rims. Rounder tire profiles are not as prone to “squaring off” when spread on a wide rim, while tires with very pronounced side wall knobs (such as DH tires) are more susceptible to this issue. For this reason, when pairing with DH tires or other relatively square profile tires, it’s not suggested to use an overly wide rim. Spank’s SPIKE rim series includes 22.5mm, 28mm, and 30mm inner width rims, which are perfect for 2.3-2.6” aggressive tread tires. Inversely, riders who prefer less aggressive “trail tread” tires, (which remain fairly round profiled whether paired with a wide rim or narrow one), may choose to benefit from the added traction and comfort of a wider rim, or may prefer the reduced rolling resistance and speed of a narrow rim.
Once you’ve put your finger on the characteristics you are looking for in your next set of rims, it’s easy to find the perfect spank rim for you!

*If you enjoy trail and all mountain riding, with a little bit of more aggressive Enduro style here and there, then Oozy rims are probably perfect for you. If you are looking for pure speed, and you’re not an overly rough or heavy rider, then we’d suggest Oozy Trail 295. If you want something that’s going to enhance traction, and take a bit more of a beating, and a few extra grams aren’t the end of the world, then we suggest Oozy Trail 345. If you want to run + size wheels and always use wide tires, crave the most possible traction, and/or simply want the stiffest, toughest and widest trail rims you can buy, then go for the Oozy Trail 395+.

*If Downhill, Freeride, or Bike Park riding is your thing, then we suggest to go with either Spoon 32 rims if you are looking for a value oriented wheelset that can still take a lot of punishment, or Spike wheels if you want the best you can get on a reasonable budget. Spike Race 28 rims and wheels are very popular with DJ, urban FR, and park riders, as they are narrow enough to keep tires round and rolling very fast. Spike Race 33 rims and wheels are more popular with mountain Freeriders, DH Racers, and Mountain Bike Park riders, as they offer a happy medium of ample tire spread for enhanced traction, light weight, and killer strength. The top of the line Spike 350 Vibrocore offers maximum tire spread and traction, high lateral stiffness, unmatched radial compliance, as well as Spank’s vibration damping Vibrocore inner core.

Quick Answer: If you are using Spank rims and Spank hubs, then please refer to the PDF at this link, for a complete list of Spank hand built wheelset spoke and nipple specifications.

Spoke length is calculated with dimensions from your rims (ERD), hubs and nipples, as well as desired spoke lacing pattern. So, you will need all this information to accurately calculate the spoke length you'll need in a custom wheelset.

If you are using Spank rims, and hubs from another supplier, unfortunately we cannot offer spoke length calculations.  As hub models, dimensions, and standards change often, there is too much risk for error, which could lead to you purchasing the wrong length spokes. There are a number of reputable spoke length calculators on-line, which are easy and convenient to use, if you have all the necessary data.

ERD and “++” – It’s important to note that the “++” callout in Spank published ERD measurements for all our rims, refers to the height of the nipples you are using in your wheel build. You must add 2X nipple head height (specific to the nipples you have chosen), to the ERD when calculating spoke lengths. In the past ERD was usually communicated as a calculation including a standard nipple head height, (Inner Diameter of the Rim + 2x Spoke Bed Wall thickness + 2x Nipple Head Height = ERD). However, in recent years many new standards of nipples have been introduced, and nipple head heights vary. For example a standard external nipple has a 2mm head, while a DSN type nipple has a 4mm head. For this reason, Spank communicates ERD without including nipple head height, so the user can add the exact height of the nipples they have chosen for their build, (Inner Diameter of the Rim + 2X Spoke Bed Wall Thickness = ERD ++). 

Quick Answer: If you are using Spank rims and Spank hubs, then please refer to the PDF at this link, for a complete list of Spank hand built wheelset spoke and nipple specifications.

Spoke length is calculated with dimensions from your rims (ERD), hubs and nipples, as well as desired spoke lacing pattern. So, you will need all this information to accurately calculate the spoke length you'll need in a custom wheelset.

If you are using Spank rims, and hubs from another supplier, unfortunately we cannot offer spoke length calculations.  As hub models, dimensions, and standards change often, there is too much risk for error, which could lead to you purchasing the wrong length spokes. There are a number of reputable spoke length calculators on-line, which are easy and convenient to use, if you have all the necessary data.

ERD and “++” – It’s important to note that the “++” callout in Spank published ERD measurements for all our rims, refers to the height of the nipples you are using in your wheel build. You must add 2X nipple head height (specific to the nipples you have chosen), to the ERD when calculating spoke lengths. In the past ERD was usually communicated as a calculation including a standard nipple head height, (Inner Diameter of the Rim + 2x Spoke Bed Wall thickness + 2x Nipple Head Height = ERD). However, in recent years many new standards of nipples have been introduced, and nipple head heights vary. For example a standard external nipple has a 2mm head, while a DSN type nipple has a 4mm head. For this reason, Spank communicates ERD without including nipple head height, so the user can add the exact height of the nipples they have chosen for their build, (Inner Diameter of the Rim + 2X Spoke Bed Wall Thickness = ERD ++). 

Quick Answer: We recommend a target spoke tension range of 110-120 kgf           

Contrary to popular belief, most professional wheel builders and very experienced mechanics will confirm, that exceptionally high spoke tensions do not necessarily mean better or stronger wheels. Very high spoke tensions can create excessive rigidity, which can lead to a harsh ride feel, and also catastrophic failure when your wheels encounter overload forces. In fact, your wheels’ ability to flex ever so slightly under load and impact, improves ride quality, your wheels’ capability to track through rough terrain, and absorb big hits without damage. What is important is to achieve the most consistent spoke tension possible throughout your wheel, considering of course that adding dish to your wheel will mean some spoke tension variance from left to right side. Spank Industries recommends that for a good balance of strength, durability and comfort in your wheelset built with Spank rims, that a target spoke tension of roughly 110-120 kgf is optimal.

Quick Answer: We recommend a target spoke tension range of 110-120 kgf           

Contrary to popular belief, most professional wheel builders and very experienced mechanics will confirm, that exceptionally high spoke tensions do not necessarily mean better or stronger wheels. Very high spoke tensions can create excessive rigidity, which can lead to a harsh ride feel, and also catastrophic failure when your wheels encounter overload forces. In fact, your wheels’ ability to flex ever so slightly under load and impact, improves ride quality, your wheels’ capability to track through rough terrain, and absorb big hits without damage. What is important is to achieve the most consistent spoke tension possible throughout your wheel, considering of course that adding dish to your wheel will mean some spoke tension variance from left to right side. Spank Industries recommends that for a good balance of strength, durability and comfort in your wheelset built with Spank rims, that a target spoke tension of roughly 110-120 kgf is optimal.

Quick Answer: Spoke thread-lock should be used during custom wheel building, but must be applied carefully to avoid damage to rim finish and logos.

There are several commercial spoke-prep/thread-lock products available, specific to wheel building. It is recommended to use a recognized brand, and a thread-lock product which is designed specifically for wheel building. Industrial thread-lock products are not recommended, and may lead to premature failure or damage to your nipples, spokes, or rims.

Spoke-Prep / Thread-lock products can damage your rim’s decals or laser logos, if proper care is not taken. Whenever applying threadlock to your nipples or spokes, it’s recommended to take care that any excess material does not drip on to any surfaces of the rim. 

Spokes can be prepared by adding a small amount of spoke thread-lock to the threads of each spoke before lacing. Thread-lock applied after the wheel build is complete and desired spoke tension is achieved, should only be applied to the top of the nipple head, through the nipple holes in the inner well of the rim. We do not recommend to apply thread-lock to the shaft of the spoke or nipple where the nipple and spoke meet, as this will commonly lead to dripping over the rim and its logos, and can cause damage.

Quick Answer: Spoke thread-lock should be used during custom wheel building, but must be applied carefully to avoid damage to rim finish and logos.

There are several commercial spoke-prep/thread-lock products available, specific to wheel building. It is recommended to use a recognized brand, and a thread-lock product which is designed specifically for wheel building. Industrial thread-lock products are not recommended, and may lead to premature failure or damage to your nipples, spokes, or rims.

Spoke-Prep / Thread-lock products can damage your rim’s decals or laser logos, if proper care is not taken. Whenever applying threadlock to your nipples or spokes, it’s recommended to take care that any excess material does not drip on to any surfaces of the rim. 

Spokes can be prepared by adding a small amount of spoke thread-lock to the threads of each spoke before lacing. Thread-lock applied after the wheel build is complete and desired spoke tension is achieved, should only be applied to the top of the nipple head, through the nipple holes in the inner well of the rim. We do not recommend to apply thread-lock to the shaft of the spoke or nipple where the nipple and spoke meet, as this will commonly lead to dripping over the rim and its logos, and can cause damage.

Quick Answer: We suggest to stay within ETRTO recommendations for tire/rim pairing, or refer to the guidelines below. Aggressively treaded tires with pronounced sidewall knobs, or tires for tubeless use, may require special consideration to optimize performance.
Tire Width - Correct tire and rim pairing is important to ensure optimal tire performance, safety, and tubeless function. It is highly suggested to always stay within ETRTO recommendations for tire and rim width compatibility. However some guidelines exist, which may help when choosing the right tires for your Spank rims.

MTB Rims:

Spank rims with an inner width of 21mm or less are best suited to tires from 1.3” (33mm) to 2.3” (53mm).

*Example: Oozy Trail 260

 

Spank rims with an inner width of 22-24mm, are best suited for tires from 1.5” (38mm) to 2.35” (60mm).

*Example: Spike Race 28 / Spoon 28

/ Flare 24 Vibrocore™

Spank rims profiles with an inner width of 25-28mm, are best suited for tires from 1.7” (43mm) to 2.6” (66mm).
*Examples: Oozy Trail 295 / Spike Race 33 / Spoon 32

 

Spank rims with an inner width of 29-33mm, are best suited for tires from 2.0” (51mm) to 2.6” (66mm).
*Examples: Oozy Trail 345 / Spike 350 Vibrocore / Oozy 350

Spank rims with an inner width of 35mm or greater, are best suited for tires from 2.3” (58mm) to 3.0” (76mm).
*Example: Oozy Trail 395+

Gravel Rims:

Spank Wing 22 Gravel rims with an inner width of 22mm are best suited to tires from 28c to 55c.

Spank Flare 24 Vibrocore™ and Flare 24 OC Vibrocore rims with an inner width of 24mm, are designed for tubeless use with both MTB and Road tires, and are best suited to road tires from 35c to 62c, and MTB tires from 1.5" to 2.3".

If you pair tires which are wider than that recommended with your Spank rims, it may be necessary to run higher air pressures in order to reach the desired tire stability, or to allow tubeless use. However, tire security can be compromised when wide tires are paired with narrow rims, which can lead to dangerous “tire blow off” in extreme situations, so this is not recommended.

Tire Profiles – Aggressively treaded tires with very pronounced side wall knobs (such as DH tires) have comparatively square profiles and are susceptible to “squaring off” when paired with very wide rims. Although this does improve traction in most instances, it can also lead to reduced handling performance, and in extreme cases lack of traction in very high speed turns. It’s suggested that with very aggressively treaded tires with high side wall knobs, that a rim between 22-30mm inner widths is best to optimize tire performance.

Rounder tire profiles are not as prone to “squaring off” when spread on a wide rim. Riders who prefer less aggressive “trail tread” tires, (which remain fairly round profiled whether paired with a wide rim or narrow one), have more options open to them. Within recommended tire widths, riders using round profile tires may choose to benefit from the added traction and comfort of a wider tire/rim pair, or may prefer the reduced rolling resistance and speed of a narrow rim/tire combo, and will not see a major drop in tire performance when using tires on the narrow end of the spectrum with rims on the wider side.

Tubeless Tires – Spank’s Spike and Oozy rims and wheels have Bead Bite™ tubeless bead hooks, and are designed to work with UST, TLR, TR rated tires. When selecting a tubeless ready tire for your Spank Spike or Oozy rims, it’s suggested that you pick a tire which is not excessively wide for your rim. The wider the rim in relation to the tire, the better the tubeless performance. For example, OOZY Trail 295 rims have an inner width of 25mm, which is optimal for tires 1.7-2.6” in size. However, with this rim profile, tubeless performance with a 2.35” tire will be slightly better than with a 2.6” tire, as the sidewalls of the tires will be kept in a more upright and stable orientation, and will be less likely to collapse (leading to a burp or air loss).

Quick Answer: We suggest to stay within ETRTO recommendations for tire/rim pairing, or refer to the guidelines below. Aggressively treaded tires with pronounced sidewall knobs, or tires for tubeless use, may require special consideration to optimize performance.
Tire Width - Correct tire and rim pairing is important to ensure optimal tire performance, safety, and tubeless function. It is highly suggested to always stay within ETRTO recommendations for tire and rim width compatibility. However some guidelines exist, which may help when choosing the right tires for your Spank rims.

MTB Rims:

Spank rims with an inner width of 21mm or less are best suited to tires from 1.3” (33mm) to 2.3” (53mm).

*Example: Oozy Trail 260

 

Spank rims with an inner width of 22-24mm, are best suited for tires from 1.5” (38mm) to 2.35” (60mm).

*Example: Spike Race 28 / Spoon 28

/ Flare 24 Vibrocore™

Spank rims profiles with an inner width of 25-28mm, are best suited for tires from 1.7” (43mm) to 2.6” (66mm).
*Examples: Oozy Trail 295 / Spike Race 33 / Spoon 32

 

Spank rims with an inner width of 29-33mm, are best suited for tires from 2.0” (51mm) to 2.6” (66mm).
*Examples: Oozy Trail 345 / Spike 350 Vibrocore / Oozy 350

Spank rims with an inner width of 35mm or greater, are best suited for tires from 2.3” (58mm) to 3.0” (76mm).
*Example: Oozy Trail 395+

Gravel Rims:

Spank Wing 22 Gravel rims with an inner width of 22mm are best suited to tires from 28c to 55c.

Spank Flare 24 Vibrocore™ and Flare 24 OC Vibrocore rims with an inner width of 24mm, are designed for tubeless use with both MTB and Road tires, and are best suited to road tires from 35c to 62c, and MTB tires from 1.5" to 2.3".

If you pair tires which are wider than that recommended with your Spank rims, it may be necessary to run higher air pressures in order to reach the desired tire stability, or to allow tubeless use. However, tire security can be compromised when wide tires are paired with narrow rims, which can lead to dangerous “tire blow off” in extreme situations, so this is not recommended.

Tire Profiles – Aggressively treaded tires with very pronounced side wall knobs (such as DH tires) have comparatively square profiles and are susceptible to “squaring off” when paired with very wide rims. Although this does improve traction in most instances, it can also lead to reduced handling performance, and in extreme cases lack of traction in very high speed turns. It’s suggested that with very aggressively treaded tires with high side wall knobs, that a rim between 22-30mm inner widths is best to optimize tire performance.

Rounder tire profiles are not as prone to “squaring off” when spread on a wide rim. Riders who prefer less aggressive “trail tread” tires, (which remain fairly round profiled whether paired with a wide rim or narrow one), have more options open to them. Within recommended tire widths, riders using round profile tires may choose to benefit from the added traction and comfort of a wider tire/rim pair, or may prefer the reduced rolling resistance and speed of a narrow rim/tire combo, and will not see a major drop in tire performance when using tires on the narrow end of the spectrum with rims on the wider side.

Tubeless Tires – Spank’s Spike and Oozy rims and wheels have Bead Bite™ tubeless bead hooks, and are designed to work with UST, TLR, TR rated tires. When selecting a tubeless ready tire for your Spank Spike or Oozy rims, it’s suggested that you pick a tire which is not excessively wide for your rim. The wider the rim in relation to the tire, the better the tubeless performance. For example, OOZY Trail 295 rims have an inner width of 25mm, which is optimal for tires 1.7-2.6” in size. However, with this rim profile, tubeless performance with a 2.35” tire will be slightly better than with a 2.6” tire, as the sidewalls of the tires will be kept in a more upright and stable orientation, and will be less likely to collapse (leading to a burp or air loss).

Quick Answer: When inflating tires, it is always recommended to stay within the suggested pressure range marked on the tire, or offered by the tire manufacturer

Riding with tire pressures outside the tire makers’ recommendation can be dangerous. Spank rims have been designed to work within recommended MTB tire pressure ranges used by all major tire manufacturers.

In cases where Spank MTB rims are used with Gravel Bike or Cyclocross tires, it is recommended to keep tire pressures within the recommended range of the tire manufacturer, and under 75 psi (5 BAR) maximum.

Quick Answer: When inflating tires, it is always recommended to stay within the suggested pressure range marked on the tire, or offered by the tire manufacturer

Riding with tire pressures outside the tire makers’ recommendation can be dangerous. Spank rims have been designed to work within recommended MTB tire pressure ranges used by all major tire manufacturers.

In cases where Spank MTB rims are used with Gravel Bike or Cyclocross tires, it is recommended to keep tire pressures within the recommended range of the tire manufacturer, and under 75 psi (5 BAR) maximum.

Quick Answer: All Spank Oozy and Spike rims, or rims designated EVO or Bead Bite, have been designed for tubeless use as well as use with tubes.

Watch our tubeless set up video tutorial below:

https://youtu.be/LWJ7RiDGYuc?si=5i9-R0ccaInvFs2D

To set up your Spank rims for tubeless use, after your wheelset is built, you will require tubeless tape (we recommend a thin tape like Spank’s Fratelli Tape), tubeless valves, tubeless sealant, and “tubeless ready” designated tires. 

Spank EVO and Bead Bite rims are equally suitable for use with both tubes and tubeless set ups. However, there are a few "tips" to make tubeless set up go smoothly. Tubeless set up, (and all service and maintenance to Spank Industries components), should be performed by a trained bicycle mechanic. Failure to follow correct procedure can be dangerous both during tubeless set up and use, and could lead to injury. It is highly recommended that during tubeless tire inflation and set up, that eye and ear protection are worn.

The rim strip that comes with Spank rims is not intended for tubeless application. To set up a “tubeless ready” rim for tubeless use, tubeless tape, tubeless valves, and tubeless sealant are required.

Tubeless Tape - When choosing a tubeless tape to seal the inner profile of your Spank rims, we suggest our Fratelli Tubeless Tape, (or similar alternative). Fratelli Tape is thin and pliable, allowing it to conform to the complex inner shapes of Spank's Oohbah profile rims. Some brands of tubeless tape may be too thick or rigid to adequately conform to features in your Spank rims, and can make tire fitting difficult, or in extreme cases reduce tire/rim security. Fratelli Tape also works in a wide range of temperatures, which can be important if you’re a winter rider, or frequent very hot locations.  Fratelli tape comes in 25mm and 30mm widths. 25mm tape is recommended for rims up to 29mm internal width, (Oozy Trail 260, Trail 295, Spike Race 28, Spike Race 33, Subrosa 30). 30mm tape is recommended for rims with 30mm or wider internal width (Oozy Trail 345, Trail 395+, Oozy 350, Spike 350 Vibrocore, Stiffy 40).

To prepare a new rim for tubeless use after wheel building, remove the non-tubeless rim strip that came with your rim, and clean the inside of the rim thoroughly with alcohol, (avoid cleaners that might leave behind residue). Make sure the rim is given adequate time to dry, and be careful not to touch the inside of the rim with oily fingers before applying tubeless tape.

If your rim has been used with tubeless sealant before, then it is suggested to first wash out your rim thoroughly with soapy water, then allow to dry. Once dry, wipe the inside of the rim carefully with alcohol, and allow to dry, before applying tubeless tape.

To tape the inner profile of your rims, it is suggested that you tape all the way around one side of the rim first, to the bead hook on the vertical flange. Be careful to keep the edge of the tape running along the bottom of the bead hook and a “light” tension on the tape as you go. As you progress around the rim, smooth the tape into the center area of the rim, removing all bubbles. Press firmly on the tape as you smooth out any wrinkles and bubbles. Pressure activates the adhesive on the tape, creating a better bond with the rim.

Once you finish one complete rotation around the rim, cross over to the opposite side of the rim, (without cutting your tape), and tape all the way around the other side (again careful to tape up to the bead hook on the vertical flange all the way around). This will leave a single layer of tape on the bead seats and vertical flanges of the inner profile, and a double thick area in the center of the rim. By taping the vertical flanges you create an extra seal between the tire beads and rim itself, and seal the joint area completely.

Bead Bite rims have tiny rows of ridges on the horizontal and vertical walls of the bead seats. It is not a problem to tape over them with Fratelli tape or another very thin tubeless tape, as your tape will conform into the ridges under pressure.

When you have completed two revolutions around the rim with your tape, inspect and ensure the tape is firmly pressed into all the grooves of the rim profile. Make sure there are no large air bubbles, or areas where the tape is not adhered completely to the rim. Press firmly on the tape in all areas, around the entire rim. It is suggested to set the freshly taped rim aside for roughly 20 min, before you continue with your set up. This will give the tape adhesive time to set.

Once you are satisfied that the rim has been taped sufficiently, use a hot pointed tool to puncture a small hole through the double thick area of tape in the center of the rim, at the valve hole. This will allow your tubeless valves to protrude through the tape. Be careful not to make your valve access hole too big. The hole will conform to the valve as it is inserted and create a seal.

Prepare your tubeless valve by dipping its rubber base into your tubeless sealant. Insert your tubeless valve carefully and gently through the access hole you made, and press the rubber base of the valve into the rim valve hole firmly. From the opposite side of the valve, tighten the valve lock ring tightly by hand, while pressing the rubber base down into the valve hole from the inside of the rim.

At this point you can mount your tires to your rim. When using some brands of tubeless ready tires or UST tires, sometimes fit will be very tight. This improves air pressure and tire retention, but can make it difficult to get your tires onto your rims. In cases of tight tire fit, place the rim inside the tire completely, and mount the right side of the tire from the right side of the rim, and left from left. Make sure as you mount the right tire bead of your tire over your rim, that it fits snuggly into the groove on the right side of the Oohbah bulge in the center of the rim, all the way around the rim. This will make mounting the second side much easier. Many technicians suggest that soapy water, tire wax or lubricant, or a thin coating of tubeless sealant, used on the tire beads, will help tight tires to slip on more easily, and may help to create an initial seal for inflation.

It is recommended that you do not use tire levers when mounting tubeless or tubeless ready tires, but in cases with extremely tight fits, plastic levers (without sharp edges) may be necessary. If so, be very careful not to contact the tubeless tape with your levers. Tiny punctures can develop that can lead to air loss.

Once tires are mounted, check that the lock ring on the valve is tightened snuggly (while being careful not to over tighten which can damage the rubber base of your valve). A significant level of pressure is required to pull the rubber base of the valve into the valve hole to create a perfect seal. Some mechanics suggest that dipping valves in sealant before set up can help. Again, do not over tighten the valve lock ring, as it can damage the base, or may make it impossible to remove trail side in an emergency.

At this point it is suggested that you remove the core from your tubeless valve, and inject a tubeless tire sealant into the assembly through the valve (respective of the tubeless sealant manufacturer’s suggested volume). Sealant can help to protect from small punctures, but also help to compensate for tiny mistakes during your tubeless set up, and small deformations in tires, that lead to slow leaks. Spin/shake your wheels vigorously to spread the tire sealant evenly throughout the tire/rim. If your tubeless sealant does not come with a valve application nozzle, simply unhook a small portion of the tire bead from the rim, and pour the sealant into the tire. Then remount the tire onto the rim. Spin the wheel vigorously to spread sealant.

Spank EVO and Bead Bite rims are designed for ease of inflation with tubeless set ups. Most of the time it’s possible with nothing more than a hand or foot pump. In some cases a compressor may be required. Depending on the tire make and model, as well as tightness of fit, sometimes tires must be inflated to 40-50psi, in order to fully seat the tire on the rim bead seats. Often an audible “snap” is heard as the tire jumps into place. Do not inflate tires over the recommended maximum marked on the tire itself. Warning – Always inflate your tubeless set up slowly, checking periodically that the tire has not slipped up and over the rim hook anywhere. If you notice it begin to slip over the hooks, deflate immediate and reseat the tire. To confirm correct seating, inflate the tire until the bead marker line on the outside of the tire is an equal distance from the edge of the rim, all the way around both sides of the tire, while not exceeding the maximum recommended tire pressure.

If, as you inflate your tires you hear air loss, or if after 1-2 hours you notice some loss of pressure, brush soapy water over the rim/tire interface, as well as all nipple and valve holes, to find where bubbles are escaping, and correct issue. If air is leaking from the valve area, use a set of pliers to tighten the lock ring on your valve slightly, being careful not to over tighten, which can damaging the valve’s rubber base. If air continues to leak, you may need to remove the tire to check the valve’s rubber base for damage. If damaged it should be replaced.

Quick Answer: All Spank Oozy and Spike rims, or rims designated EVO or Bead Bite, have been designed for tubeless use as well as use with tubes.

Watch our tubeless set up video tutorial below:

https://youtu.be/LWJ7RiDGYuc?si=5i9-R0ccaInvFs2D

To set up your Spank rims for tubeless use, after your wheelset is built, you will require tubeless tape (we recommend a thin tape like Spank’s Fratelli Tape), tubeless valves, tubeless sealant, and “tubeless ready” designated tires. 

Spank EVO and Bead Bite rims are equally suitable for use with both tubes and tubeless set ups. However, there are a few "tips" to make tubeless set up go smoothly. Tubeless set up, (and all service and maintenance to Spank Industries components), should be performed by a trained bicycle mechanic. Failure to follow correct procedure can be dangerous both during tubeless set up and use, and could lead to injury. It is highly recommended that during tubeless tire inflation and set up, that eye and ear protection are worn.

The rim strip that comes with Spank rims is not intended for tubeless application. To set up a “tubeless ready” rim for tubeless use, tubeless tape, tubeless valves, and tubeless sealant are required.

Tubeless Tape - When choosing a tubeless tape to seal the inner profile of your Spank rims, we suggest our Fratelli Tubeless Tape, (or similar alternative). Fratelli Tape is thin and pliable, allowing it to conform to the complex inner shapes of Spank's Oohbah profile rims. Some brands of tubeless tape may be too thick or rigid to adequately conform to features in your Spank rims, and can make tire fitting difficult, or in extreme cases reduce tire/rim security. Fratelli Tape also works in a wide range of temperatures, which can be important if you’re a winter rider, or frequent very hot locations.  Fratelli tape comes in 25mm and 30mm widths. 25mm tape is recommended for rims up to 29mm internal width, (Oozy Trail 260, Trail 295, Spike Race 28, Spike Race 33, Subrosa 30). 30mm tape is recommended for rims with 30mm or wider internal width (Oozy Trail 345, Trail 395+, Oozy 350, Spike 350 Vibrocore, Stiffy 40).

To prepare a new rim for tubeless use after wheel building, remove the non-tubeless rim strip that came with your rim, and clean the inside of the rim thoroughly with alcohol, (avoid cleaners that might leave behind residue). Make sure the rim is given adequate time to dry, and be careful not to touch the inside of the rim with oily fingers before applying tubeless tape.

If your rim has been used with tubeless sealant before, then it is suggested to first wash out your rim thoroughly with soapy water, then allow to dry. Once dry, wipe the inside of the rim carefully with alcohol, and allow to dry, before applying tubeless tape.

To tape the inner profile of your rims, it is suggested that you tape all the way around one side of the rim first, to the bead hook on the vertical flange. Be careful to keep the edge of the tape running along the bottom of the bead hook and a “light” tension on the tape as you go. As you progress around the rim, smooth the tape into the center area of the rim, removing all bubbles. Press firmly on the tape as you smooth out any wrinkles and bubbles. Pressure activates the adhesive on the tape, creating a better bond with the rim.

Once you finish one complete rotation around the rim, cross over to the opposite side of the rim, (without cutting your tape), and tape all the way around the other side (again careful to tape up to the bead hook on the vertical flange all the way around). This will leave a single layer of tape on the bead seats and vertical flanges of the inner profile, and a double thick area in the center of the rim. By taping the vertical flanges you create an extra seal between the tire beads and rim itself, and seal the joint area completely.

Bead Bite rims have tiny rows of ridges on the horizontal and vertical walls of the bead seats. It is not a problem to tape over them with Fratelli tape or another very thin tubeless tape, as your tape will conform into the ridges under pressure.

When you have completed two revolutions around the rim with your tape, inspect and ensure the tape is firmly pressed into all the grooves of the rim profile. Make sure there are no large air bubbles, or areas where the tape is not adhered completely to the rim. Press firmly on the tape in all areas, around the entire rim. It is suggested to set the freshly taped rim aside for roughly 20 min, before you continue with your set up. This will give the tape adhesive time to set.

Once you are satisfied that the rim has been taped sufficiently, use a hot pointed tool to puncture a small hole through the double thick area of tape in the center of the rim, at the valve hole. This will allow your tubeless valves to protrude through the tape. Be careful not to make your valve access hole too big. The hole will conform to the valve as it is inserted and create a seal.

Prepare your tubeless valve by dipping its rubber base into your tubeless sealant. Insert your tubeless valve carefully and gently through the access hole you made, and press the rubber base of the valve into the rim valve hole firmly. From the opposite side of the valve, tighten the valve lock ring tightly by hand, while pressing the rubber base down into the valve hole from the inside of the rim.

At this point you can mount your tires to your rim. When using some brands of tubeless ready tires or UST tires, sometimes fit will be very tight. This improves air pressure and tire retention, but can make it difficult to get your tires onto your rims. In cases of tight tire fit, place the rim inside the tire completely, and mount the right side of the tire from the right side of the rim, and left from left. Make sure as you mount the right tire bead of your tire over your rim, that it fits snuggly into the groove on the right side of the Oohbah bulge in the center of the rim, all the way around the rim. This will make mounting the second side much easier. Many technicians suggest that soapy water, tire wax or lubricant, or a thin coating of tubeless sealant, used on the tire beads, will help tight tires to slip on more easily, and may help to create an initial seal for inflation.

It is recommended that you do not use tire levers when mounting tubeless or tubeless ready tires, but in cases with extremely tight fits, plastic levers (without sharp edges) may be necessary. If so, be very careful not to contact the tubeless tape with your levers. Tiny punctures can develop that can lead to air loss.

Once tires are mounted, check that the lock ring on the valve is tightened snuggly (while being careful not to over tighten which can damage the rubber base of your valve). A significant level of pressure is required to pull the rubber base of the valve into the valve hole to create a perfect seal. Some mechanics suggest that dipping valves in sealant before set up can help. Again, do not over tighten the valve lock ring, as it can damage the base, or may make it impossible to remove trail side in an emergency.

At this point it is suggested that you remove the core from your tubeless valve, and inject a tubeless tire sealant into the assembly through the valve (respective of the tubeless sealant manufacturer’s suggested volume). Sealant can help to protect from small punctures, but also help to compensate for tiny mistakes during your tubeless set up, and small deformations in tires, that lead to slow leaks. Spin/shake your wheels vigorously to spread the tire sealant evenly throughout the tire/rim. If your tubeless sealant does not come with a valve application nozzle, simply unhook a small portion of the tire bead from the rim, and pour the sealant into the tire. Then remount the tire onto the rim. Spin the wheel vigorously to spread sealant.

Spank EVO and Bead Bite rims are designed for ease of inflation with tubeless set ups. Most of the time it’s possible with nothing more than a hand or foot pump. In some cases a compressor may be required. Depending on the tire make and model, as well as tightness of fit, sometimes tires must be inflated to 40-50psi, in order to fully seat the tire on the rim bead seats. Often an audible “snap” is heard as the tire jumps into place. Do not inflate tires over the recommended maximum marked on the tire itself. Warning – Always inflate your tubeless set up slowly, checking periodically that the tire has not slipped up and over the rim hook anywhere. If you notice it begin to slip over the hooks, deflate immediate and reseat the tire. To confirm correct seating, inflate the tire until the bead marker line on the outside of the tire is an equal distance from the edge of the rim, all the way around both sides of the tire, while not exceeding the maximum recommended tire pressure.

If, as you inflate your tires you hear air loss, or if after 1-2 hours you notice some loss of pressure, brush soapy water over the rim/tire interface, as well as all nipple and valve holes, to find where bubbles are escaping, and correct issue. If air is leaking from the valve area, use a set of pliers to tighten the lock ring on your valve slightly, being careful not to over tighten, which can damaging the valve’s rubber base. If air continues to leak, you may need to remove the tire to check the valve’s rubber base for damage. If damaged it should be replaced.

Rim strips are meant to protect tubes from the sharp edges on spoke holes within the rim. The rim strip must be removed before you can prepare your rims for tubeless use. Attempts to set up tubeless tires without tubes, using the non-tubeless rim strip provided with your rim, can be dangerous, and could lead to injury.

Tubeless Ready Oozy Trail 345 Rim with Rim Strip (not intended for tubeless use)

Tubeless Ready is a term coined by major tire manufacturers, and as it relates to rims, indicates a rim that is designed to fit properly with Tubeless Ready tires. Tubeless Ready rims cannot be taped for tubeless use, until after they are built into wheels (the spoke holes in the rim must be accessible during wheel building).

It is highly recommended that a very thin Polyamide tape such as Spank’s Fratelli Tubeless Tape (sold separately) is used for tubeless set up. Thicker, less pliable tapes may be troublesome and could lead to tire fit issues and/or reduced tubeless performance.

Rim strips are meant to protect tubes from the sharp edges on spoke holes within the rim. The rim strip must be removed before you can prepare your rims for tubeless use. Attempts to set up tubeless tires without tubes, using the non-tubeless rim strip provided with your rim, can be dangerous, and could lead to injury.

Tubeless Ready Oozy Trail 345 Rim with Rim Strip (not intended for tubeless use)

Tubeless Ready is a term coined by major tire manufacturers, and as it relates to rims, indicates a rim that is designed to fit properly with Tubeless Ready tires. Tubeless Ready rims cannot be taped for tubeless use, until after they are built into wheels (the spoke holes in the rim must be accessible during wheel building).

It is highly recommended that a very thin Polyamide tape such as Spank’s Fratelli Tubeless Tape (sold separately) is used for tubeless set up. Thicker, less pliable tapes may be troublesome and could lead to tire fit issues and/or reduced tubeless performance.

Quick Answer: It’s important to note that the “++” callout in Spank published ERD measurements for all our rims, refers to the height of the heads on the nipples you are using in your wheel build. You must add 2X nipple head height (specific to the nipples you have chosen), to the ERD when calculating spoke lengths.

ERD and “++” - In the past ERD was usually communicated as a calculation including a standard nipple head height, (ERD = Inner Diameter of the Rim + 2x Spoke Bed Wall thickness + 2x Nipple Head Height). However, in recent years many new standards of nipples have been introduced, and nipple head heights vary. For example a standard external nipple has a 2mm head, while a DSN type nipple has a 4mm head.

For this reason, Spank communicates ERD without including nipple head height, so the user can add the exact height of the nipples they have chosen for their build, (Inner Diameter of the Rim + 2X Spoke Bed Wall Thickness = ERD ++). 

If you are using an online spoke calculator, and the ERD value is expected to include nipple head height, then you may need to add the head height of the nipples you have chosen to the spoke length offered.

Quick Answer: It’s important to note that the “++” callout in Spank published ERD measurements for all our rims, refers to the height of the heads on the nipples you are using in your wheel build. You must add 2X nipple head height (specific to the nipples you have chosen), to the ERD when calculating spoke lengths.

ERD and “++” - In the past ERD was usually communicated as a calculation including a standard nipple head height, (ERD = Inner Diameter of the Rim + 2x Spoke Bed Wall thickness + 2x Nipple Head Height). However, in recent years many new standards of nipples have been introduced, and nipple head heights vary. For example a standard external nipple has a 2mm head, while a DSN type nipple has a 4mm head.

For this reason, Spank communicates ERD without including nipple head height, so the user can add the exact height of the nipples they have chosen for their build, (Inner Diameter of the Rim + 2X Spoke Bed Wall Thickness = ERD ++). 

If you are using an online spoke calculator, and the ERD value is expected to include nipple head height, then you may need to add the head height of the nipples you have chosen to the spoke length offered.

Quick Answer: Spank’s Oozy Trail 395+ rims are ideal for “+” sized tires.

The “Plus size” or “+ Size” tire standard is relatively new to the MTB market. Tires in this standard are most commonly 2.8” (71mm) to 3.0” (76mm) in width. It’s important to note that most mountain bike frames and forks are not designed to fit tires this big, so it’s wise to double check your equipment before making any investment.

Oozy Trail 395+ rims have an inner profile of 35mm, which is perfectly suitable for +Size tires. The beauty of choosing an Oozy Trail 395+ profile over a traditional 40mm inner width +size rim, is that it is not prohibitive to other tire standards and sizes, should you decide that +Size just isn’t for you. Oozy Trail 395+ rims are suitable with standard wide tires from 2.3” to 2.6” as well as +Size tires.

Quick Answer: Spank’s Oozy Trail 395+ rims are ideal for “+” sized tires.

The “Plus size” or “+ Size” tire standard is relatively new to the MTB market. Tires in this standard are most commonly 2.8” (71mm) to 3.0” (76mm) in width. It’s important to note that most mountain bike frames and forks are not designed to fit tires this big, so it’s wise to double check your equipment before making any investment.

Oozy Trail 395+ rims have an inner profile of 35mm, which is perfectly suitable for +Size tires. The beauty of choosing an Oozy Trail 395+ profile over a traditional 40mm inner width +size rim, is that it is not prohibitive to other tire standards and sizes, should you decide that +Size just isn’t for you. Oozy Trail 395+ rims are suitable with standard wide tires from 2.3” to 2.6” as well as +Size tires.

Quick Answer: If the sticker over the joint of your rim has cracked or broken, but there is no obvious gap at the joint, your rim should be fine to continue using. If a clear gap at the joint is obvious, your rim should be inspected by an experience mechanic.

If you are not sure, it’s recommended to have the rim inspected, or send a clear photo of the issue to info@spank-ind.com, or to your regional authorized Spank distributor.

It is important to first note, that Spank rims are not welded at the joints. Spank Industries Oozy and Spike rims have sleeved joints, and Spoon rims have pinned joints. All Spank Industries tubeless ready rims, have sleeved joints.

Sleeved joints offer a higher strength to weight ratio than welded ones, and allow for a level of flexibility at the joint, which prevents cracking at the joint area. It is perfectly normal for a sleeved rim to flex at the joint area, and for tiny gaps to open or close. Tiny gaps at the joint do not mean the joint is broken. That is exactly what the rim is designed to do, when it takes a hit or overload force, which would be strong enough to break a welded joint. If your rim has a small gap at the joint, it is suggested to have it inspected by a trained mechanic or send images to a Spank Sales and Service Center, but it should still be ridable, and should still be okay for tubeless use if your set up is correct. 

If you are experiencing air loss at the joint in a tubeless set up, please remove the tire, and ensure that your tubeless tape is covering the entire center of the rim, and all the way to the bead hooks on both sides. It’s recommended that you use a thin Polyamide tape, like Spank’s Fratelli Tubeless Tape. Thicker tapes can cause issues with tire fit and tubeless performance, and may negate the benefits of the Bead Bite tubeless hooks on your rim.

Quick Answer: If the sticker over the joint of your rim has cracked or broken, but there is no obvious gap at the joint, your rim should be fine to continue using. If a clear gap at the joint is obvious, your rim should be inspected by an experience mechanic.

If you are not sure, it’s recommended to have the rim inspected, or send a clear photo of the issue to info@spank-ind.com, or to your regional authorized Spank distributor.

It is important to first note, that Spank rims are not welded at the joints. Spank Industries Oozy and Spike rims have sleeved joints, and Spoon rims have pinned joints. All Spank Industries tubeless ready rims, have sleeved joints.

Sleeved joints offer a higher strength to weight ratio than welded ones, and allow for a level of flexibility at the joint, which prevents cracking at the joint area. It is perfectly normal for a sleeved rim to flex at the joint area, and for tiny gaps to open or close. Tiny gaps at the joint do not mean the joint is broken. That is exactly what the rim is designed to do, when it takes a hit or overload force, which would be strong enough to break a welded joint. If your rim has a small gap at the joint, it is suggested to have it inspected by a trained mechanic or send images to a Spank Sales and Service Center, but it should still be ridable, and should still be okay for tubeless use if your set up is correct. 

If you are experiencing air loss at the joint in a tubeless set up, please remove the tire, and ensure that your tubeless tape is covering the entire center of the rim, and all the way to the bead hooks on both sides. It’s recommended that you use a thin Polyamide tape, like Spank’s Fratelli Tubeless Tape. Thicker tapes can cause issues with tire fit and tubeless performance, and may negate the benefits of the Bead Bite tubeless hooks on your rim.

A small quantity of rims from the first production batch, (Q1A shipment of Feb/March 2018) have a partial Vibrocore foam blockage in nipple holes. This could prevent nipples from seating properly in the spoke bed during wheel building. 

Model: Spike 350 Vibrocore Rims, 27.5” and 29”

Identification of blockage: As shown in photos below, when viewing through nipple access holes, you should clearly see both openings.  (Picture on the left).  In the example of the right, the nipple hole is slightly obscured and may need some cleaning before inserting nipples.

Perfectly cleared nipple holePartially blocked nipple hole

Correcting the Issue:  Using a 7.5mm diameter drill bit, lightly insert and gently turn to clear the excess foam.

PLEASE NOTE: This minor foam excess occurred on a limited number of the first production rims. The issue is fully resolved and limited to this one batch. It is not a standard or recurring issue.

A small quantity of rims from the first production batch, (Q1A shipment of Feb/March 2018) have a partial Vibrocore foam blockage in nipple holes. This could prevent nipples from seating properly in the spoke bed during wheel building. 

Model: Spike 350 Vibrocore Rims, 27.5” and 29”

Identification of blockage: As shown in photos below, when viewing through nipple access holes, you should clearly see both openings.  (Picture on the left).  In the example of the right, the nipple hole is slightly obscured and may need some cleaning before inserting nipples.

Perfectly cleared nipple holePartially blocked nipple hole

Correcting the Issue:  Using a 7.5mm diameter drill bit, lightly insert and gently turn to clear the excess foam.

PLEASE NOTE: This minor foam excess occurred on a limited number of the first production rims. The issue is fully resolved and limited to this one batch. It is not a standard or recurring issue.

Quick Answer:

SPIKE – Downhill/Bike Park/Freeride/Enduro/Aggressive All Mountain

OOZY – XC/Trail/All Mountain/Lite-Enduro/Touring/Gravel Bikes & Cyclocross

SPOON – All Mountain/Bike Park/Freeride/Downhill/Kids
Picking the right wheel for your ride, can be very important. Wheels that are too light for the discipline you ride, or for your riding level and/or body size, can mean reduced product lifespan, or worse catastrophic failure in an accident! Inversely, picking overweight wheels which could be too strong and durable for the conditions you ride, will slow you down, and make riding laborious instead of fun.

Spank breaks down our wheelset into 3 product lines that are specific to riding disciplines, which is a good place to start.

SPIKE - Weight Optimized Gravity MTB Products

Suggested use: Downhill/Bike Park/Freeride/Enduro/Aggressive All Mountain

*SPIKE 350 Vibrocore (27.5” and 29”)

*SPIKE Race 33 (26”, 27.5”, and 29”)

*SPIKE Race 28 (26” and 27.5”)

OOZY – Weight Optimized Trail MTB Products

Suggested use: XC/Trail/All Mountain/Lite-Enduro/Touring/Gravel Bikes & Cyclocross

*OOZY Trail 395+ (27.5” and 29”)

*OOZY 350 (27.5” and 29”)

*OOZY Trail 345 (27.5” and 29”)

*OOZY Trail 295 (27.5” and 29”)

SPOON – Value Oriented All-Round MTB Products

Suggested use: All Mountain/Bike Park/Freeride/Downhill/Kids

*Spoon 32 (26” and 27.5”)

*Spoon 28 (20” and 24”)

Spank offers a few options within each product line. Where wheels are concerned, those options mainly differ in rim width. Please click this link to explore the specifications of rim profiles. Once you know which product line (ex Spike for DH, or Oozy for Trail), and you’re clear on the characteristics you are looking for in your next set of rims, it should help you to determine which Spank wheelset is right for you!

*If you enjoy Trail and All Mountain riding, with some more aggressive Enduro style here and there, then Oozy wheels are probably perfect for you. If you are looking for pure speed, and you’re not an overly rough or heavy rider, then we’d suggest the narrower profile Oozy Trail 295. If weight is very important to you, yet you still want the benefits of wide rim profiles, then we suggest the new Oozy 350 wheels. If you want something that’s going to enhance traction, and take a bit more of a beating, and a few extra grams aren’t the end of the world, then we suggest Oozy Trail 345. If you want to run + size wheels and always run wide tires, crave the most possible traction, and/or simply want the stiffest, toughest and widest trail wheels you can buy, then go for the Oozy Trail 395+.

*If Downhill, Freeride, Bike Park, (Enduro) riding is your thing, then we suggest to go with either Spoon 32 wheels if you are looking for a value oriented wheelset that can still take a lot of punishment, or Spike wheels if you want the best you can get on a reasonable budget. Please note, many Enduro riders, who ride in especially rough terrain, or who are fairly hard on products, often choose Spike wheels for their durability. Spike Race 28 wheels are very popular with DJ, Urban FR, and Park riders, as they are narrow enough to keep tires round and rolling very fast. Spike Race 33 wheels are more popular with Mountain Freeriders, DH Racers, and Mountain Bike Park riders, as they offer a happy medium of ample tire spread for enhanced traction, light weight, and killer strength. If you are looking for the ultimate in highly weight optimized, wide DH and Enduro racing wheels, we suggest you have a look at the new Spike 350 Vibrocore wheelsets.

*20” and 24” Kids bikes utilize Spank’s Spoon 28-24 and Spoon 28-20 wheelsets, which have been designed to keep weight to a minimum, and work with a wide range of kids size tires, and provide a round and predictable tire profile. Spoon 28 wheels are multi-discipline, strong enough for bike park use, but light enough for long days on the trail with mom and dad.

Quick Answer:

SPIKE – Downhill/Bike Park/Freeride/Enduro/Aggressive All Mountain

OOZY – XC/Trail/All Mountain/Lite-Enduro/Touring/Gravel Bikes & Cyclocross

SPOON – All Mountain/Bike Park/Freeride/Downhill/Kids
Picking the right wheel for your ride, can be very important. Wheels that are too light for the discipline you ride, or for your riding level and/or body size, can mean reduced product lifespan, or worse catastrophic failure in an accident! Inversely, picking overweight wheels which could be too strong and durable for the conditions you ride, will slow you down, and make riding laborious instead of fun.

Spank breaks down our wheelset into 3 product lines that are specific to riding disciplines, which is a good place to start.

SPIKE - Weight Optimized Gravity MTB Products

Suggested use: Downhill/Bike Park/Freeride/Enduro/Aggressive All Mountain

*SPIKE 350 Vibrocore (27.5” and 29”)

*SPIKE Race 33 (26”, 27.5”, and 29”)

*SPIKE Race 28 (26” and 27.5”)

OOZY – Weight Optimized Trail MTB Products

Suggested use: XC/Trail/All Mountain/Lite-Enduro/Touring/Gravel Bikes & Cyclocross

*OOZY Trail 395+ (27.5” and 29”)

*OOZY 350 (27.5” and 29”)

*OOZY Trail 345 (27.5” and 29”)

*OOZY Trail 295 (27.5” and 29”)

SPOON – Value Oriented All-Round MTB Products

Suggested use: All Mountain/Bike Park/Freeride/Downhill/Kids

*Spoon 32 (26” and 27.5”)

*Spoon 28 (20” and 24”)

Spank offers a few options within each product line. Where wheels are concerned, those options mainly differ in rim width. Please click this link to explore the specifications of rim profiles. Once you know which product line (ex Spike for DH, or Oozy for Trail), and you’re clear on the characteristics you are looking for in your next set of rims, it should help you to determine which Spank wheelset is right for you!

*If you enjoy Trail and All Mountain riding, with some more aggressive Enduro style here and there, then Oozy wheels are probably perfect for you. If you are looking for pure speed, and you’re not an overly rough or heavy rider, then we’d suggest the narrower profile Oozy Trail 295. If weight is very important to you, yet you still want the benefits of wide rim profiles, then we suggest the new Oozy 350 wheels. If you want something that’s going to enhance traction, and take a bit more of a beating, and a few extra grams aren’t the end of the world, then we suggest Oozy Trail 345. If you want to run + size wheels and always run wide tires, crave the most possible traction, and/or simply want the stiffest, toughest and widest trail wheels you can buy, then go for the Oozy Trail 395+.

*If Downhill, Freeride, Bike Park, (Enduro) riding is your thing, then we suggest to go with either Spoon 32 wheels if you are looking for a value oriented wheelset that can still take a lot of punishment, or Spike wheels if you want the best you can get on a reasonable budget. Please note, many Enduro riders, who ride in especially rough terrain, or who are fairly hard on products, often choose Spike wheels for their durability. Spike Race 28 wheels are very popular with DJ, Urban FR, and Park riders, as they are narrow enough to keep tires round and rolling very fast. Spike Race 33 wheels are more popular with Mountain Freeriders, DH Racers, and Mountain Bike Park riders, as they offer a happy medium of ample tire spread for enhanced traction, light weight, and killer strength. If you are looking for the ultimate in highly weight optimized, wide DH and Enduro racing wheels, we suggest you have a look at the new Spike 350 Vibrocore wheelsets.

*20” and 24” Kids bikes utilize Spank’s Spoon 28-24 and Spoon 28-20 wheelsets, which have been designed to keep weight to a minimum, and work with a wide range of kids size tires, and provide a round and predictable tire profile. Spoon 28 wheels are multi-discipline, strong enough for bike park use, but light enough for long days on the trail with mom and dad.

Quick Answer: “Tubeless Ready” is a term coined by major tire manufacturers, and as it relates to rims or wheels, indicates a rim that is designed to fit properly with Tubeless Ready tires. Tubeless Ready rims can be set up for tubeless use, with tubeless tape, valves, tubeless sealant and tubeless ready tires, only after wheel assembly is complete. “Tubeless Equipped” is a term reserved for wheelsets, which come fully equipped for tubeless use right out of the box. Tubeless Equipped wheels come tubeless taped, with tubeless valves inserted. All that is required is to mount tires, add tubeless sealant, and inflate.

All Spank Industries Spike and Oozy rims are tubeless ready.

Spank Spoon and Tweet rims and wheels are not recommended for tubeless use. 

All Oozy Wheelsets, and Spike 350 Vibrocore wheelsets are tubeless equipped, meaning they are set up for tubeless use during assembly, and only require tubeless sealant and a tubless ready tire for tubeless use.

Spank wheelsets come in both Tubeless Ready and Tubeless Equipped standards. If you purchase Tubeless Ready wheels, and you wish to set up for tubeless use, you will need to purchase tubeless tape, valves, and sealant separately. It’s highly recommended to us a very thin Polyamide tape such as Spank’s Fratelli Tubeless Tape (sold separately). Thicker, less pliable tapes may be troublesome and could lead to tire fit issues and/or reduced tubeless performance.

• Spike Race 33 Wheelsets – Tubeless Ready
  
• Spike Race 28 Wheelsets – Tubeless Ready
  
• Spike 350 Vibrocore Wheelsets – Tubeless Equipped
  
• Oozy Trail 395+ Wheelsets - Tubeless Equipped
  
• Oozy Trial 345 Wheelsets – Tubeless Equipped
  
• Oozy Trail 295 Wheelsets – 2012-2015 Tubeless Ready / 2015 forward Tubeless Equipped
  
• Oozy Trail 260 Wheelsets – Tubeless Ready
  
• Oozy 350 Wheelsets – Tubeless Equipped
  
• Spoon 32 Wheelsets – Not suggested for tubeless use
  
• Spoon 28 Wheelsets – Not suggested for tubeless use

Quick Answer: “Tubeless Ready” is a term coined by major tire manufacturers, and as it relates to rims or wheels, indicates a rim that is designed to fit properly with Tubeless Ready tires. Tubeless Ready rims can be set up for tubeless use, with tubeless tape, valves, tubeless sealant and tubeless ready tires, only after wheel assembly is complete. “Tubeless Equipped” is a term reserved for wheelsets, which come fully equipped for tubeless use right out of the box. Tubeless Equipped wheels come tubeless taped, with tubeless valves inserted. All that is required is to mount tires, add tubeless sealant, and inflate.

All Spank Industries Spike and Oozy rims are tubeless ready.

Spank Spoon and Tweet rims and wheels are not recommended for tubeless use. 

All Oozy Wheelsets, and Spike 350 Vibrocore wheelsets are tubeless equipped, meaning they are set up for tubeless use during assembly, and only require tubeless sealant and a tubless ready tire for tubeless use.

Spank wheelsets come in both Tubeless Ready and Tubeless Equipped standards. If you purchase Tubeless Ready wheels, and you wish to set up for tubeless use, you will need to purchase tubeless tape, valves, and sealant separately. It’s highly recommended to us a very thin Polyamide tape such as Spank’s Fratelli Tubeless Tape (sold separately). Thicker, less pliable tapes may be troublesome and could lead to tire fit issues and/or reduced tubeless performance.

• Spike Race 33 Wheelsets – Tubeless Ready
  
• Spike Race 28 Wheelsets – Tubeless Ready
  
• Spike 350 Vibrocore Wheelsets – Tubeless Equipped
  
• Oozy Trail 395+ Wheelsets - Tubeless Equipped
  
• Oozy Trial 345 Wheelsets – Tubeless Equipped
  
• Oozy Trail 295 Wheelsets – 2012-2015 Tubeless Ready / 2015 forward Tubeless Equipped
  
• Oozy Trail 260 Wheelsets – Tubeless Ready
  
• Oozy 350 Wheelsets – Tubeless Equipped
  
• Spoon 32 Wheelsets – Not suggested for tubeless use
  
• Spoon 28 Wheelsets – Not suggested for tubeless use

Quick Answer: To view an instructional video, view the clip below:

https://youtu.be/LWJ7RiDGYuc

Spank EVO and Bead Bite wheels (including all Spike and Oozy models), are equally suitable for use with both tubes and tubeless set ups. However, there are a few "tips" to make tubeless set up go smoothly.  Tubeless set up, (and all service and maintenance to Spank Industries components), should be performed by a trained bicycle mechanic. Failure to follow correct procedure can be dangerous both during tubeless set up and use, and could lead to injury. It is highly recommended that during tubeless tire inflation and set up, that eye and ear protection are worn.

Spank “tubeless equipped” wheels come with tubeless tape and valves assembled, and only require mounting tires, and tubeless sealant. Spank “tubeless ready” rims and wheels come with a standard rim strip, and must be set up for tubeless use. The rim strip that comes with Spank rims is not intended for tubeless application. To set up a “tubeless ready” wheel for tubeless use, tubeless tape, tubeless valves, and tubeless sealant are required.

Tubeless Tape - When choosing a tubeless tape to seal the inner profile of your Spank rims, we suggest our Fratelli Tubeless Tape, (or similar alternative). Fratelli Tape is thin and pliable, allowing it to conform to the complex inner shapes of Spank's Oohbah profile rims. Some brands of tubeless tape may be too thick or rigid to adequately conform to features in your Spank rims, and can make tire fitting difficult, or in extreme cases reduce tire/rim security. Fratelli Tape also works in a wide range of temperatures, which can be important if you’re a winter rider, or frequent very hot locations.  Fratelli tape comes in 25mm and 30mm widths. 25mm tape is recommended for rims up to 29mm internal width, (Oozy Trail 260, Trail 295, Spike Race 28, Spike Race 33, Subrosa 30). 30mm tape is recommended for rims with 30mm or wider internal width (Oozy Trail 345, Trail 395+, Oozy 350, Spike 350 Vibrocore, and Stiffy 40).

To prepare a new Spank tubeless ready wheel for tubeless use, remove the non-tubeless rim strip that came with your rim, and clean the inside of the rim thoroughly with alcohol, (avoid cleaners that might leave behind residue). Make sure the rim is given adequate time to dry, and be careful not to touch the inside of the rim with oily fingers before applying tubeless tape.

If your rim has been used with tubeless sealant before, then it is suggested to first wash out your rim thoroughly with soapy water, then allow to dry. Once dry, wipe the inside of the rim carefully with alcohol, and allow to dry, before applying tubeless tape.

To tape the inner profile of your rims, it is suggested that you tape all the way around one side of the rim first, to the bead hook on the vertical flange. Be careful to keep the edge of the tape running along the bottom of the bead hook and a “light” tension on the tape as you go. As you progress around the rim, smooth the tape into the center area of the rim, removing all bubbles. Press firmly on the tape as you smooth out any wrinkles and bubbles. Pressure activates the adhesive on the tape, creating a better bond with the rim.

Once you finish one complete rotation around the rim, cross over to the opposite side of the rim, (without cutting your tape), and tape all the way around the other side (again careful to tape up to the bead hook on the vertical flange all the way around). This will leave a single layer of tape on the bead seats and vertical flanges of the inner profile, and a double thick area in the center of the rim. By taping the vertical flanges you create an extra seal between the tire beads and rim itself, and seal the joint area completely.

Bead Bite rims have tiny rows of ridges on the horizontal and vertical walls of the bead seats. It is not a problem to tape over them with Fratelli tape or another very thin tubeless tape, as your tape will conform into the ridges under pressure.

When you have completed two revolutions around the rim with your tape, inspect and ensure the tape is firmly pressed into all the grooves of the rim profile. Make sure there are no large air bubbles, or areas where the tape is not adhered completely to the rim. Press firmly on the tape in all areas, around the entire rim. It is suggested to set the freshly taped wheel aside for roughly 20 min, before you continue with your set up. This will give the tape adhesive time to set.

Once you are satisfied that the rim has been taped sufficiently, use a hot pointed tool to puncture a small hole through the double thick area of tape in the center of the rim, at the valve hole. This will allow your tubeless valves to protrude through the tape. Be careful not to make your valve access hole too big. The hole will conform to the valve as it is inserted and create a seal.

Prepare your tubeless valve by dipping its rubber base into your tubeless sealant. Insert your tubeless valve carefully and gently through the access hole you made, and press the rubber base of the valve into the rim valve hole firmly. From the opposite side of the valve, tighten the valve lock ring tightly by hand, while pressing the rubber base down into the valve hole from the inside of the rim.

At this point you can mount your tires to your rim. When using some brands of tubeless ready tires or UST tires, sometimes fit will be very tight. This improves air pressure and tire retention, but can make it difficult to get your tires onto your rims. In cases of tight tire fit, place the rim inside the tire completely, and mount the right side of the tire from the right side of the rim, and left from left. Make sure as you mount the right tire bead of your tire over your rim, that it fits snuggly into the groove on the right side of the Oohbah bulge in the center of the rim, all the way around the rim. This will make mounting the second side much easier. Many technicians suggest that soapy water, tire wax or lubricant, or a thin coating of tubeless sealant, used on the tire beads, will help tight tires to slip on more easily, and may help to create an initial seal for inflation.

It is recommended that you do not use tire levers when mounting tubeless or tubeless ready tires, but in cases with extremely tight fits, plastic levers (without sharp edges) may be necessary. If so, be very careful not to contact the tubeless tape with your levers. Tiny punctures can develop that can lead to air loss.

Once tires are mounted, check that the lock ring on the valve is tightened snuggly (while being careful not to over tighten which can damage the rubber base of your valve). A significant level of pressure is required to pull the rubber base of the valve into the valve hole to create a perfect seal. Some mechanics suggest that dipping valves in sealant before set up can help. Again, do not over tighten the valve lock ring, as it can damage the base, or may make it impossible to remove trail side in an emergency.

At this point it is suggested that you remove the core from your tubeless valve, and inject a tubeless tire sealant into the assembly through the valve (respective of the tubeless sealant manufacturer’s suggested volume). Sealant can help to protect from small punctures, but also help to compensate for tiny mistakes during your tubeless set up, and small deformations in tires, that lead to slow leaks. Spin/shake your wheels vigorously to spread the tire sealant evenly throughout the tire/rim. If your tubeless sealant does not come with a valve application nozzle, simply unhook a small portion of the tire bead from the rim, and pour the sealant into the tire. Then remount the tire onto the rim. Spin the wheel vigorously to spread sealant.

Spank EVO and Bead Bite rims are designed for ease of inflation with tubeless set ups. Most of the time it’s possible with nothing more than a hand or foot pump. In some cases a compressor may be required. Depending on the tire make and model, as well as tightness of fit, sometimes tires must be inflated to 40-50psi, in order to fully seat the tire on the rim bead seats. Often an audible “snap” is heard as the tire jumps into place. Do not inflate tires over the recommended maximum marked on the tire itself. Warning – Always inflate your tubeless set up slowly, checking periodically that the tire has not slipped up and over the rim hook anywhere. If you notice it begin to slip over the hooks, deflate immediate and reseat the tire. To confirm correct seating, inflate the tire until the bead marker line on the outside of the tire is an equal distance from the edge of the rim, all the way around both sides of the tire, while not exceeding the maximum recommended tire pressure.

If, as you inflate your tires you hear air loss, or if after 1-2 hours you notice some loss of pressure, brush soapy water over the rim/tire interface, as well as all nipple and valve holes, to find where bubbles are escaping, and correct issue. If air is leaking from the valve area, use a set of pliers to tighten the lock ring on your valve slightly, being careful not to over tighten, which can damaging the valve’s rubber base. If air continues to leak, you may need to remove the tire to check the valve’s rubber base for damage. If damaged it should be replaced.

Quick Answer: To view an instructional video, view the clip below:

https://youtu.be/LWJ7RiDGYuc

Spank EVO and Bead Bite wheels (including all Spike and Oozy models), are equally suitable for use with both tubes and tubeless set ups. However, there are a few "tips" to make tubeless set up go smoothly.  Tubeless set up, (and all service and maintenance to Spank Industries components), should be performed by a trained bicycle mechanic. Failure to follow correct procedure can be dangerous both during tubeless set up and use, and could lead to injury. It is highly recommended that during tubeless tire inflation and set up, that eye and ear protection are worn.

Spank “tubeless equipped” wheels come with tubeless tape and valves assembled, and only require mounting tires, and tubeless sealant. Spank “tubeless ready” rims and wheels come with a standard rim strip, and must be set up for tubeless use. The rim strip that comes with Spank rims is not intended for tubeless application. To set up a “tubeless ready” wheel for tubeless use, tubeless tape, tubeless valves, and tubeless sealant are required.

Tubeless Tape - When choosing a tubeless tape to seal the inner profile of your Spank rims, we suggest our Fratelli Tubeless Tape, (or similar alternative). Fratelli Tape is thin and pliable, allowing it to conform to the complex inner shapes of Spank's Oohbah profile rims. Some brands of tubeless tape may be too thick or rigid to adequately conform to features in your Spank rims, and can make tire fitting difficult, or in extreme cases reduce tire/rim security. Fratelli Tape also works in a wide range of temperatures, which can be important if you’re a winter rider, or frequent very hot locations.  Fratelli tape comes in 25mm and 30mm widths. 25mm tape is recommended for rims up to 29mm internal width, (Oozy Trail 260, Trail 295, Spike Race 28, Spike Race 33, Subrosa 30). 30mm tape is recommended for rims with 30mm or wider internal width (Oozy Trail 345, Trail 395+, Oozy 350, Spike 350 Vibrocore, and Stiffy 40).

To prepare a new Spank tubeless ready wheel for tubeless use, remove the non-tubeless rim strip that came with your rim, and clean the inside of the rim thoroughly with alcohol, (avoid cleaners that might leave behind residue). Make sure the rim is given adequate time to dry, and be careful not to touch the inside of the rim with oily fingers before applying tubeless tape.

If your rim has been used with tubeless sealant before, then it is suggested to first wash out your rim thoroughly with soapy water, then allow to dry. Once dry, wipe the inside of the rim carefully with alcohol, and allow to dry, before applying tubeless tape.

To tape the inner profile of your rims, it is suggested that you tape all the way around one side of the rim first, to the bead hook on the vertical flange. Be careful to keep the edge of the tape running along the bottom of the bead hook and a “light” tension on the tape as you go. As you progress around the rim, smooth the tape into the center area of the rim, removing all bubbles. Press firmly on the tape as you smooth out any wrinkles and bubbles. Pressure activates the adhesive on the tape, creating a better bond with the rim.

Once you finish one complete rotation around the rim, cross over to the opposite side of the rim, (without cutting your tape), and tape all the way around the other side (again careful to tape up to the bead hook on the vertical flange all the way around). This will leave a single layer of tape on the bead seats and vertical flanges of the inner profile, and a double thick area in the center of the rim. By taping the vertical flanges you create an extra seal between the tire beads and rim itself, and seal the joint area completely.

Bead Bite rims have tiny rows of ridges on the horizontal and vertical walls of the bead seats. It is not a problem to tape over them with Fratelli tape or another very thin tubeless tape, as your tape will conform into the ridges under pressure.

When you have completed two revolutions around the rim with your tape, inspect and ensure the tape is firmly pressed into all the grooves of the rim profile. Make sure there are no large air bubbles, or areas where the tape is not adhered completely to the rim. Press firmly on the tape in all areas, around the entire rim. It is suggested to set the freshly taped wheel aside for roughly 20 min, before you continue with your set up. This will give the tape adhesive time to set.

Once you are satisfied that the rim has been taped sufficiently, use a hot pointed tool to puncture a small hole through the double thick area of tape in the center of the rim, at the valve hole. This will allow your tubeless valves to protrude through the tape. Be careful not to make your valve access hole too big. The hole will conform to the valve as it is inserted and create a seal.

Prepare your tubeless valve by dipping its rubber base into your tubeless sealant. Insert your tubeless valve carefully and gently through the access hole you made, and press the rubber base of the valve into the rim valve hole firmly. From the opposite side of the valve, tighten the valve lock ring tightly by hand, while pressing the rubber base down into the valve hole from the inside of the rim.

At this point you can mount your tires to your rim. When using some brands of tubeless ready tires or UST tires, sometimes fit will be very tight. This improves air pressure and tire retention, but can make it difficult to get your tires onto your rims. In cases of tight tire fit, place the rim inside the tire completely, and mount the right side of the tire from the right side of the rim, and left from left. Make sure as you mount the right tire bead of your tire over your rim, that it fits snuggly into the groove on the right side of the Oohbah bulge in the center of the rim, all the way around the rim. This will make mounting the second side much easier. Many technicians suggest that soapy water, tire wax or lubricant, or a thin coating of tubeless sealant, used on the tire beads, will help tight tires to slip on more easily, and may help to create an initial seal for inflation.

It is recommended that you do not use tire levers when mounting tubeless or tubeless ready tires, but in cases with extremely tight fits, plastic levers (without sharp edges) may be necessary. If so, be very careful not to contact the tubeless tape with your levers. Tiny punctures can develop that can lead to air loss.

Once tires are mounted, check that the lock ring on the valve is tightened snuggly (while being careful not to over tighten which can damage the rubber base of your valve). A significant level of pressure is required to pull the rubber base of the valve into the valve hole to create a perfect seal. Some mechanics suggest that dipping valves in sealant before set up can help. Again, do not over tighten the valve lock ring, as it can damage the base, or may make it impossible to remove trail side in an emergency.

At this point it is suggested that you remove the core from your tubeless valve, and inject a tubeless tire sealant into the assembly through the valve (respective of the tubeless sealant manufacturer’s suggested volume). Sealant can help to protect from small punctures, but also help to compensate for tiny mistakes during your tubeless set up, and small deformations in tires, that lead to slow leaks. Spin/shake your wheels vigorously to spread the tire sealant evenly throughout the tire/rim. If your tubeless sealant does not come with a valve application nozzle, simply unhook a small portion of the tire bead from the rim, and pour the sealant into the tire. Then remount the tire onto the rim. Spin the wheel vigorously to spread sealant.

Spank EVO and Bead Bite rims are designed for ease of inflation with tubeless set ups. Most of the time it’s possible with nothing more than a hand or foot pump. In some cases a compressor may be required. Depending on the tire make and model, as well as tightness of fit, sometimes tires must be inflated to 40-50psi, in order to fully seat the tire on the rim bead seats. Often an audible “snap” is heard as the tire jumps into place. Do not inflate tires over the recommended maximum marked on the tire itself. Warning – Always inflate your tubeless set up slowly, checking periodically that the tire has not slipped up and over the rim hook anywhere. If you notice it begin to slip over the hooks, deflate immediate and reseat the tire. To confirm correct seating, inflate the tire until the bead marker line on the outside of the tire is an equal distance from the edge of the rim, all the way around both sides of the tire, while not exceeding the maximum recommended tire pressure.

If, as you inflate your tires you hear air loss, or if after 1-2 hours you notice some loss of pressure, brush soapy water over the rim/tire interface, as well as all nipple and valve holes, to find where bubbles are escaping, and correct issue. If air is leaking from the valve area, use a set of pliers to tighten the lock ring on your valve slightly, being careful not to over tighten, which can damaging the valve’s rubber base. If air continues to leak, you may need to remove the tire to check the valve’s rubber base for damage. If damaged it should be replaced.

Quick Answer: If you have Spank tubeless ready wheels, and you’ve set them up for tubeless use, please take a moment to view the clip below, to ensure your wheels have been set up properly. Incorrect set up procedure, or the use of incorrect or insufficient tubeless materials, can lead to tubeless failure, loss of tire/rim security, and accidents or injury.

Tubeless set up should always be performed by a trained mechanic.

https://youtu.be/LWJ7RiDGYuc

IF you have Spank tubeless equipped wheels, or you’ve set up your tubeless ready wheels for tubeless use and confirmed that correct procedure was followed, and you’ve noticed a leak, the following steps should be performed by a trained mechanic.

Note: When mounting or removing tubeless ready tires from Spank tubeless ready rims, it’s recommended to only use plastic tire levers (if levers are required), without sharp edges. Steel or alloy levers or plastic levers with sharp edges, can create tiny punctures in your tubeless tape, which can be very hard to find.

• First, check that the tire you are using is marked as Tubeless Ready, and that the size of tire you are using is compatible with the size/model of Spank rim you are using. Wide tires (for example) on narrow rims, can be problematic, and result in reduced tubeless performance.
• Double check you’ve used enough sealant, and some particulate matter was injected along with the sealant (if you don't shake the bottle enough, sometimes you just get the liquid). Top up sealant to recommended volume (suggested by sealant manufacturer).
• Inflate your tire to roughly 30psi.
• Brush soapy water over the whole rim and tire, to isolate where air is escaping.
• If air is escaping from the tire sidewalls or knob areas of the tire, it indicates your tire has been punctured. Some tire sealants will seal punctures in tires up to ¼”, while others are limited to creating a seal with the rim and retaining air pressure. Check that you are using a suitable sealant, and there is a sufficient volume (which is still in a liquid state) in your tire. Top up if necessary. If the puncture is not sealable by your tire sealant, you may need to replace the tire.
• If air is escaping through the spoke holes, most likely there is an issue with your tubeless tape. Remove the tire, and inspect all the way around the rim, for any large bubbles or places where the tape has lifted, and sealant is escaping under the tape. This may require a little extra sealant to fix, or if severe enough, may mean that your rim has to be re-taped.
• If air is escaping between the tire and rim, this is most likely from tiny imperfections in the tire. Remove your tire, and clean the tire bead very carefully, removing any contaminants and or loose bits of rubber or dried sealant. Inspect the tire bead carefully for any folds, cracks, kinks, excess material from molding process, or bubbles in the rubber, which could lead to a poor seal between tire and rim. If such exist, you may need to replace your tire. If your tires are too old, cracks and leaks can develop, which can be very difficult to detect. It’s recommended to always use fresh tires when setting up for tubeless use. Before remounting the tire on the rim, check the rim bead seats on both sides of the rim carefully, and remove any contaminants. Top up sealant to manufacturers suggested volume. In particularly troublesome cases, you may wish to rub sealant over the tire beads on both sides of the tire, around the complete perimeter of the tire. This can help to make tire mounting smoother, and also to make an initial seal while inflating your tires. Inflate to about 30-50 psi to ensure the tire bead is fully seated. Reduce pressure to about 25-30psi, then shake and spin the wheel vigorously to spread sealant equally, then let the wheel sit for 2 hours before checking again. At this point sometimes you'll need to top the pressure up to 25-30psi, as a bit of air may have escaped as the sealant worked into any little spots. Let the wheel sit overnight, then check that pressure has not reduced.
• If air is escaping from the valve hole, first check that your valve is tightened adequately, by removing the tire to access the valve, and tightening the valve stem collar (lock ring) in quarter turn increments by hand while pushing down on the rubber base. Re-inflate tire to check if leak has stopped. Do not over tighten your valve stem collar, as this can damage the rubber base. If air persists to escape, remove the valve collar and valve from the rim, and check for any damage to the rubber base (it can be cut if the lock ring was tightened too much). With valve removed, check that the tape around the entire rim is adhered sufficiently, and no large bubbles or gaps exist, with particular attention to the tape at the valve hole, ensuring it is not torn, lifted up, or bubbled. If the tubeless tape is not adequately adhered to the rim in all areas, then tape may need to be replaced. Disassemble the valve stem and core, and dip both parts into sealant. Reassemble valve, dab a bit more sealant onto the rubber base, and around the valve hole of the rim, and reinsert the valve into the rim. Tighten the lock ring by hand, while pushing down firmly on the rubber base with your thumb to make sure it’s fully pushed into the hole. Inflate to about 30-50 psi to ensure the tire bead is fully seated. Reduce pressure to about 25-30psi, then shake and spin the wheel vigorously to spread sealant equally, then let the wheel sit for 2 hours before checking again. At this point sometimes you'll need to top the pressure up to 25-30psi, as a bit of air may have escaped as the sealant worked into any little spots. Let the wheel sit overnight, then check that pressure has not reduced.
• If air is escaping through the joint area, in most cases this means the rim has not been tubeless taped properly, or its time to replace the tubeless tape on your wheels. Check that your tubeless tape covers the center of the rim, and all the way to the vertical flanges on both sides, preferably up to the base of the rim bead hooks. Sleeved joint rims have more flexible joints than welded rims, which adds to overall rim/wheel strength, however means tiny gaps can occur at the joint during heavy use. For this reason sleeved joint rims should be taped all the way to the bead hooks on both sides, to create a seal between tire bead and tape. If air is escaping at the joint area, remove your tubeless tape, clean your rim with alcohol, and reapply tubeless tape and valves, following tubeless set up directions carefully.

*If the leak persists, consult a trained mechanic or contact info@spank-ind.com

Quick Answer: If you have Spank tubeless ready wheels, and you’ve set them up for tubeless use, please take a moment to view the clip below, to ensure your wheels have been set up properly. Incorrect set up procedure, or the use of incorrect or insufficient tubeless materials, can lead to tubeless failure, loss of tire/rim security, and accidents or injury.

Tubeless set up should always be performed by a trained mechanic.

https://youtu.be/LWJ7RiDGYuc

IF you have Spank tubeless equipped wheels, or you’ve set up your tubeless ready wheels for tubeless use and confirmed that correct procedure was followed, and you’ve noticed a leak, the following steps should be performed by a trained mechanic.

Note: When mounting or removing tubeless ready tires from Spank tubeless ready rims, it’s recommended to only use plastic tire levers (if levers are required), without sharp edges. Steel or alloy levers or plastic levers with sharp edges, can create tiny punctures in your tubeless tape, which can be very hard to find.

• First, check that the tire you are using is marked as Tubeless Ready, and that the size of tire you are using is compatible with the size/model of Spank rim you are using. Wide tires (for example) on narrow rims, can be problematic, and result in reduced tubeless performance.
• Double check you’ve used enough sealant, and some particulate matter was injected along with the sealant (if you don't shake the bottle enough, sometimes you just get the liquid). Top up sealant to recommended volume (suggested by sealant manufacturer).
• Inflate your tire to roughly 30psi.
• Brush soapy water over the whole rim and tire, to isolate where air is escaping.
• If air is escaping from the tire sidewalls or knob areas of the tire, it indicates your tire has been punctured. Some tire sealants will seal punctures in tires up to ¼”, while others are limited to creating a seal with the rim and retaining air pressure. Check that you are using a suitable sealant, and there is a sufficient volume (which is still in a liquid state) in your tire. Top up if necessary. If the puncture is not sealable by your tire sealant, you may need to replace the tire.
• If air is escaping through the spoke holes, most likely there is an issue with your tubeless tape. Remove the tire, and inspect all the way around the rim, for any large bubbles or places where the tape has lifted, and sealant is escaping under the tape. This may require a little extra sealant to fix, or if severe enough, may mean that your rim has to be re-taped.
• If air is escaping between the tire and rim, this is most likely from tiny imperfections in the tire. Remove your tire, and clean the tire bead very carefully, removing any contaminants and or loose bits of rubber or dried sealant. Inspect the tire bead carefully for any folds, cracks, kinks, excess material from molding process, or bubbles in the rubber, which could lead to a poor seal between tire and rim. If such exist, you may need to replace your tire. If your tires are too old, cracks and leaks can develop, which can be very difficult to detect. It’s recommended to always use fresh tires when setting up for tubeless use. Before remounting the tire on the rim, check the rim bead seats on both sides of the rim carefully, and remove any contaminants. Top up sealant to manufacturers suggested volume. In particularly troublesome cases, you may wish to rub sealant over the tire beads on both sides of the tire, around the complete perimeter of the tire. This can help to make tire mounting smoother, and also to make an initial seal while inflating your tires. Inflate to about 30-50 psi to ensure the tire bead is fully seated. Reduce pressure to about 25-30psi, then shake and spin the wheel vigorously to spread sealant equally, then let the wheel sit for 2 hours before checking again. At this point sometimes you'll need to top the pressure up to 25-30psi, as a bit of air may have escaped as the sealant worked into any little spots. Let the wheel sit overnight, then check that pressure has not reduced.
• If air is escaping from the valve hole, first check that your valve is tightened adequately, by removing the tire to access the valve, and tightening the valve stem collar (lock ring) in quarter turn increments by hand while pushing down on the rubber base. Re-inflate tire to check if leak has stopped. Do not over tighten your valve stem collar, as this can damage the rubber base. If air persists to escape, remove the valve collar and valve from the rim, and check for any damage to the rubber base (it can be cut if the lock ring was tightened too much). With valve removed, check that the tape around the entire rim is adhered sufficiently, and no large bubbles or gaps exist, with particular attention to the tape at the valve hole, ensuring it is not torn, lifted up, or bubbled. If the tubeless tape is not adequately adhered to the rim in all areas, then tape may need to be replaced. Disassemble the valve stem and core, and dip both parts into sealant. Reassemble valve, dab a bit more sealant onto the rubber base, and around the valve hole of the rim, and reinsert the valve into the rim. Tighten the lock ring by hand, while pushing down firmly on the rubber base with your thumb to make sure it’s fully pushed into the hole. Inflate to about 30-50 psi to ensure the tire bead is fully seated. Reduce pressure to about 25-30psi, then shake and spin the wheel vigorously to spread sealant equally, then let the wheel sit for 2 hours before checking again. At this point sometimes you'll need to top the pressure up to 25-30psi, as a bit of air may have escaped as the sealant worked into any little spots. Let the wheel sit overnight, then check that pressure has not reduced.
• If air is escaping through the joint area, in most cases this means the rim has not been tubeless taped properly, or its time to replace the tubeless tape on your wheels. Check that your tubeless tape covers the center of the rim, and all the way to the vertical flanges on both sides, preferably up to the base of the rim bead hooks. Sleeved joint rims have more flexible joints than welded rims, which adds to overall rim/wheel strength, however means tiny gaps can occur at the joint during heavy use. For this reason sleeved joint rims should be taped all the way to the bead hooks on both sides, to create a seal between tire bead and tape. If air is escaping at the joint area, remove your tubeless tape, clean your rim with alcohol, and reapply tubeless tape and valves, following tubeless set up directions carefully.

*If the leak persists, consult a trained mechanic or contact info@spank-ind.com

Quick Answer: Spank hubs and wheels are available in Boost standard, and in non-Boost standard. Front non-Boost Spank Spike and Oozy wheels can be adapted to fit Boost forks, with a Spank Front Hub Boost Adapter Kit. Rear Spike and Oozy non-Boost wheels cannot be adapted to fit Boost frames, without the use of a 3rd party adapter kit and a re-dish of your wheel (conditions apply). Spoon Hubs (2011-2015) cannot be converted to Boost standard.

Boost is a relatively new standard to forks, frames, and hubs, which was introduced to improve on the stiffness of lightweight wheels, and provide solutions to frame designers with regards to rear spacing and chainline issues. Boost, as it relates to your hubs/wheels, is pretty simple. Boost hubs are wider than normal standard hubs. On most Boost forks the O.L.D. is 15x110mm, (normal 15mm width is 100mm), and the frame rear dropout is 12x148mm, (normal rear standards are 135mm and 142mm widths). Some DH Boost forks are using a new standard called Boost 20 (20x110mm). Boost hubs have wider flanges than traditional hub standards. As the flanges are wider, the triangulation of the spokes in your wheel build becomes wider, which will inherently add stiffness to any given wheel build. A second feature of Boost hubs, is the rotor mounts have been moved 3mm outward on rear hubs, and 5mm outward on front hubs. This means if you try to mount a regular hub into a Boost fork or frame with axle spacers only, the brake rotors are not going to line up with the brake calipers.

If you purchase a new fork, which is Boost 15x110, and you wish to use your non-Boost Spank Spike or Oozy front wheel, it is possible to use a Spank Boost Adapter Kit. Boost adapter kits have 5mm longer adapter caps for both ends of your hub, which will change the effective width from 100mm to 110mm. Also provided is a brake rotor spacer, which will move your brake rotor outboard 5mm to match caliper positioning on your Boost fork. Finally 6 extra-long brake rotor bolts are provided, to ensure full thread engagement and a strong connection between your rotor and hub, even with the 5mm spacer between them.

If you have purchased a Boost frame, and wish to use your non-Boost Spank rear wheel, unfortunately Spank does not make an adapter kit for this. Use of 3rd party Boost Rear Adapters, which require a re-dish of your wheel, will void your wheelset’s warranty. It is highly suggested in this case, that you contact a Spank distributor or Sales and Service Center, to purchase a Boost rear hub, and rebuild your wheel. Special offers are often available in these cases.

Quick Answer: Spank hubs and wheels are available in Boost standard, and in non-Boost standard. Front non-Boost Spank Spike and Oozy wheels can be adapted to fit Boost forks, with a Spank Front Hub Boost Adapter Kit. Rear Spike and Oozy non-Boost wheels cannot be adapted to fit Boost frames, without the use of a 3rd party adapter kit and a re-dish of your wheel (conditions apply). Spoon Hubs (2011-2015) cannot be converted to Boost standard.

Boost is a relatively new standard to forks, frames, and hubs, which was introduced to improve on the stiffness of lightweight wheels, and provide solutions to frame designers with regards to rear spacing and chainline issues. Boost, as it relates to your hubs/wheels, is pretty simple. Boost hubs are wider than normal standard hubs. On most Boost forks the O.L.D. is 15x110mm, (normal 15mm width is 100mm), and the frame rear dropout is 12x148mm, (normal rear standards are 135mm and 142mm widths). Some DH Boost forks are using a new standard called Boost 20 (20x110mm). Boost hubs have wider flanges than traditional hub standards. As the flanges are wider, the triangulation of the spokes in your wheel build becomes wider, which will inherently add stiffness to any given wheel build. A second feature of Boost hubs, is the rotor mounts have been moved 3mm outward on rear hubs, and 5mm outward on front hubs. This means if you try to mount a regular hub into a Boost fork or frame with axle spacers only, the brake rotors are not going to line up with the brake calipers.

If you purchase a new fork, which is Boost 15x110, and you wish to use your non-Boost Spank Spike or Oozy front wheel, it is possible to use a Spank Boost Adapter Kit. Boost adapter kits have 5mm longer adapter caps for both ends of your hub, which will change the effective width from 100mm to 110mm. Also provided is a brake rotor spacer, which will move your brake rotor outboard 5mm to match caliper positioning on your Boost fork. Finally 6 extra-long brake rotor bolts are provided, to ensure full thread engagement and a strong connection between your rotor and hub, even with the 5mm spacer between them.

If you have purchased a Boost frame, and wish to use your non-Boost Spank rear wheel, unfortunately Spank does not make an adapter kit for this. Use of 3rd party Boost Rear Adapters, which require a re-dish of your wheel, will void your wheelset’s warranty. It is highly suggested in this case, that you contact a Spank distributor or Sales and Service Center, to purchase a Boost rear hub, and rebuild your wheel. Special offers are often available in these cases.

Quick Answer: Please refer to the PDF chart for complete compatibility of all Spank wheels.
Please click this link for a complete guide to all Spank hub adapters.

Spank Industries hubs and wheelsets have been designed to fit the widest possible range of frame and fork standards. In most cases we have an adapter that will accommodate the standard you need.

There are a few rules of thumb that will help you to understand what is, and what is not possible.

 

Rear Hubs:

135/142mm Rear Hubs can fit QR/10/12mm x 135mm frames or 12x142mm frames.

135/142mm Rear Hubs cannot be adapted to 150mm or 157mm frames.

135/142mm Rear Hubs can only be adapted to Boost frames with a 3rd party Boost Adapter kit. The use of such kits may require a re-dishing of your wheel, which will void your wheel warranty.
150/157mm Rear Hubs can fit 12x150mm or 12x157mm frames.

150/157mm Rear Hubs cannot be adapted to fit 135mm or 142mm frames.

150/157mm Rear Hubs cannot be adapted to fit Boost 148mm frames.
Boost 148mm Rear Hubs only fit Boost 148mm frames.

Boost 148mm Rear Hubs cannot be adapted to fit 135mm, 142mm, 150mm, or 157mm frames.

Front Hubs:

15x100mm Front Hubs can be adapted to fit 20x110mm, or QRx100mm forks.

20x110mm Front Hubs can be adapted to fit 15x100, or QRx100 forks.

QRx100 Front Hubs can be adapted to fit 15x100, or 20x110 forks.

Non-Boost Front Hubs can be adapted to fit Boost forks with a Spank Boost Adapter Kit, which does NOT require re-dishing your wheel, and does not affect your wheel warranty.
Boost 15x110 Front Hubs only fit Boost forks.

Boost 15x110 Front Hubs can be adapted to fit Boost 20x110 forks.

Boost 15x110 Front Hubs cannot be adapted to fit non-Boost forks.
When choosing the Spank hub adapter you need, the first thing you need to do is confirm which type of hub you have.

*All Oozy hubs, regardless of model year, and regardless of 28 hole or 32 hole, use the Oozy/Spike adapters. Example: Oozy/Spike Rear Hub 12x142mm Adapter

*All Spike hubs, regardless of model year, use Oozy/Spike hub adapters. Example: Oozy/Spike Rear Hub 12x142mm Adapter

*All Spoon hubs, regardless of model year, use Spoon hub adapters. Spoon hubs are NOT compatible with Oozy/Spike Adapters.

*Spoon 32 Wheelsets built between 2011 and 2015, were built with Spoon hubs (so require Spoon adapters).
*Spoon 32 Wheelsets built after 2015, are built with Spike hubs (so require Oozy/Spike adapters).
Hubs are marked clearly with model and size in the center of the hub body.

 

*Spike Race 28 EVO Wheelsets built between 2011 and 2015, were built with Spoon hubs, (so require Spoon adapters).

*Spike Race 28 EVO Wheelsets built after 2015, are built with Spike hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike adapters).
Hubs are marked clearly with model and size in the center of the hub body.

*All Spoon 28, 24” and 20” Wheelsets are built with Spike 32 hole J-Hook hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike adapters)

*Spike Race 28 Enduro Wheelsets, were all built with Oozy Trail 28 hole, straightpull hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike adapters).

*Oozy Trail Wheelsets, (including Oozy 26AL EVO, Oozy Trail 260, and Oozy Trail 295) built between 2011 and 2015, were built with 28 hole Oozy Straightpull hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike adapters).

*Oozy Trail Wheelsets, (including Oozy Trail 295, Oozy Trail 345, Oozy 350, and Oozy Trail 395+) built after 2015, are built with Oozy Trail 32 hole hubs (so require Oozy/Spike hub adapters).

*All Spike Race 33 Wheelsets are built with Spike 32 hole J-hook hubs (so require Oozy/Spike Adapters)

*All Spike 350 Vibrocore Wheelsets are built with Spike 32 hole J-hook hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike Adapters)

Once you have confirmed which model hubs you have, it should be easy to visit the HUB ADAPTERS page on the Spank Industries website, to locate the one you need. Adapters are stocked by all Spank distributors globally.

Quick Answer: Please refer to the PDF chart for complete compatibility of all Spank wheels.
Please click this link for a complete guide to all Spank hub adapters.

Spank Industries hubs and wheelsets have been designed to fit the widest possible range of frame and fork standards. In most cases we have an adapter that will accommodate the standard you need.

There are a few rules of thumb that will help you to understand what is, and what is not possible.

 

Rear Hubs:

135/142mm Rear Hubs can fit QR/10/12mm x 135mm frames or 12x142mm frames.

135/142mm Rear Hubs cannot be adapted to 150mm or 157mm frames.

135/142mm Rear Hubs can only be adapted to Boost frames with a 3rd party Boost Adapter kit. The use of such kits may require a re-dishing of your wheel, which will void your wheel warranty.
150/157mm Rear Hubs can fit 12x150mm or 12x157mm frames.

150/157mm Rear Hubs cannot be adapted to fit 135mm or 142mm frames.

150/157mm Rear Hubs cannot be adapted to fit Boost 148mm frames.
Boost 148mm Rear Hubs only fit Boost 148mm frames.

Boost 148mm Rear Hubs cannot be adapted to fit 135mm, 142mm, 150mm, or 157mm frames.

Front Hubs:

15x100mm Front Hubs can be adapted to fit 20x110mm, or QRx100mm forks.

20x110mm Front Hubs can be adapted to fit 15x100, or QRx100 forks.

QRx100 Front Hubs can be adapted to fit 15x100, or 20x110 forks.

Non-Boost Front Hubs can be adapted to fit Boost forks with a Spank Boost Adapter Kit, which does NOT require re-dishing your wheel, and does not affect your wheel warranty.
Boost 15x110 Front Hubs only fit Boost forks.

Boost 15x110 Front Hubs can be adapted to fit Boost 20x110 forks.

Boost 15x110 Front Hubs cannot be adapted to fit non-Boost forks.
When choosing the Spank hub adapter you need, the first thing you need to do is confirm which type of hub you have.

*All Oozy hubs, regardless of model year, and regardless of 28 hole or 32 hole, use the Oozy/Spike adapters. Example: Oozy/Spike Rear Hub 12x142mm Adapter

*All Spike hubs, regardless of model year, use Oozy/Spike hub adapters. Example: Oozy/Spike Rear Hub 12x142mm Adapter

*All Spoon hubs, regardless of model year, use Spoon hub adapters. Spoon hubs are NOT compatible with Oozy/Spike Adapters.

*Spoon 32 Wheelsets built between 2011 and 2015, were built with Spoon hubs (so require Spoon adapters).
*Spoon 32 Wheelsets built after 2015, are built with Spike hubs (so require Oozy/Spike adapters).
Hubs are marked clearly with model and size in the center of the hub body.

 

*Spike Race 28 EVO Wheelsets built between 2011 and 2015, were built with Spoon hubs, (so require Spoon adapters).

*Spike Race 28 EVO Wheelsets built after 2015, are built with Spike hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike adapters).
Hubs are marked clearly with model and size in the center of the hub body.

*All Spoon 28, 24” and 20” Wheelsets are built with Spike 32 hole J-Hook hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike adapters)

*Spike Race 28 Enduro Wheelsets, were all built with Oozy Trail 28 hole, straightpull hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike adapters).

*Oozy Trail Wheelsets, (including Oozy 26AL EVO, Oozy Trail 260, and Oozy Trail 295) built between 2011 and 2015, were built with 28 hole Oozy Straightpull hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike adapters).

*Oozy Trail Wheelsets, (including Oozy Trail 295, Oozy Trail 345, Oozy 350, and Oozy Trail 395+) built after 2015, are built with Oozy Trail 32 hole hubs (so require Oozy/Spike hub adapters).

*All Spike Race 33 Wheelsets are built with Spike 32 hole J-hook hubs (so require Oozy/Spike Adapters)

*All Spike 350 Vibrocore Wheelsets are built with Spike 32 hole J-hook hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike Adapters)

Once you have confirmed which model hubs you have, it should be easy to visit the HUB ADAPTERS page on the Spank Industries website, to locate the one you need. Adapters are stocked by all Spank distributors globally.

Quick Answer: All Spank wheels are compatible with both Shimano HG, and SRAM XD standard cassettes, however you must make sure you have the correct corresponding freehub body. Both Shimano (steel or alloy) and SRAM XD (alloy) freehubs are available from Spank, or authorized Spank dealers and distributors.

Shimano “splined” Freehub Body SRAM XD “threaded” Freehub Body

All Spank wheels built from 2011 to 2017, come equipped with Shimano freehub bodies. If you require the use of SRAM XD standard cassettes, it’s necessary to purchase an XD freehub for your wheels separately. XD freehubs are available from any Spank dealer, or distributor.

From 2018, Spank Spike and Oozy wheels are available in limited colors and sizes, with XD freehubs.

Spank Shimano freehub bodies are available in both steel and alloy versions. Steel Shimano standard freehubs are suggested for extreme riding conditions, or for riders who find their pedaling power causes damage to alloy freehubs.

Spank XD freehubs are available only in alloy. Due to the design of XD freehubs, alloy models do not suffer the same destructive forces as Shimano standard alloy freehubs.

All Oozy hubs (whether 28H or 32H), and all Spike hubs, share the same freehub bodies.

• Spike/Oozy Hub SRAM XD Standard Freehubs

Spoon 32 and Spike Race 28 EVO Wheelsets, built between 2011-2015 were assembled with Spoon hubs. Spoon hubs are not compatible with Spike/Oozy Hub freehub bodies. To convert a Spoon hub to XD standard, a specific Spoon XD freehub body is required.

• Spoon Hub SRAM XD Standard freehubs

Quick Answer: All Spank wheels are compatible with both Shimano HG, and SRAM XD standard cassettes, however you must make sure you have the correct corresponding freehub body. Both Shimano (steel or alloy) and SRAM XD (alloy) freehubs are available from Spank, or authorized Spank dealers and distributors.

Shimano “splined” Freehub Body SRAM XD “threaded” Freehub Body

All Spank wheels built from 2011 to 2017, come equipped with Shimano freehub bodies. If you require the use of SRAM XD standard cassettes, it’s necessary to purchase an XD freehub for your wheels separately. XD freehubs are available from any Spank dealer, or distributor.

From 2018, Spank Spike and Oozy wheels are available in limited colors and sizes, with XD freehubs.

Spank Shimano freehub bodies are available in both steel and alloy versions. Steel Shimano standard freehubs are suggested for extreme riding conditions, or for riders who find their pedaling power causes damage to alloy freehubs.

Spank XD freehubs are available only in alloy. Due to the design of XD freehubs, alloy models do not suffer the same destructive forces as Shimano standard alloy freehubs.

All Oozy hubs (whether 28H or 32H), and all Spike hubs, share the same freehub bodies.

• Spike/Oozy Hub SRAM XD Standard Freehubs

Spoon 32 and Spike Race 28 EVO Wheelsets, built between 2011-2015 were assembled with Spoon hubs. Spoon hubs are not compatible with Spike/Oozy Hub freehub bodies. To convert a Spoon hub to XD standard, a specific Spoon XD freehub body is required.

• Spoon Hub SRAM XD Standard freehubs

What Freehub do I need?

What Freehub do I need?

Quick Answer: All Spank wheel models with 12x135mm rear hubs, or 12x142mm rear hubs, can be adapted to use with horizontal dropout bicycles, such as dirt jumpers or single speed hard tails frames. Most of these frames use 10x135 rear spacing. NOTE, 12x150mm rear hubs cannot be adapted to fit 10x135mm frames.
Spank wheelsets come with 12x135mm, or 12x142mm rear spacing, so must use one of two adapter options in order to fit 10x135mm frames with horizontal dropouts.

First, if you are using a 12x142mm hub, you must get either a 10x135mm adapter kit, or a 12x135mm adapter kit to achieve the correct hub width.

IF you are using a 12x135mm hub, you can pick from two methods:

 

1. Purchase a 10x135mm adapter kit which matches your model and revision of wheelset. Use a 10mm bolt on axle, or 10mm QR axle, to secure your hub/wheel to your frame. Note: Spank does offer 10x135mm adapter kits, but does not make or provide 10mm axles.

 

2. Purchase a 12to10mm Step Down Axle, which will allow your 12x135mm hub to fit into 10mm horizontal dropouts, without requiring hub adapters. Note: Spank does not make or provide 12to10mm step down axles.

 

Single Speed Conversion: If you wish to adapt your Spank rear hub to single speed using a Spank Single Speed Adapter Kit, you must first confirm that you have a Shimano standard freehub body. Single Speed Adapter Kits are not compatible with SRAM XD standard freehub bodies. Spank Single Speed Adapter Kits come with a 13 tooth steel rear cog, and the necessary spacers to adjust the centering of your cog. They fit easily over any Shimano freehub body, and make conversion to single speed quick and simple.

Quick Answer: All Spank wheel models with 12x135mm rear hubs, or 12x142mm rear hubs, can be adapted to use with horizontal dropout bicycles, such as dirt jumpers or single speed hard tails frames. Most of these frames use 10x135 rear spacing. NOTE, 12x150mm rear hubs cannot be adapted to fit 10x135mm frames.
Spank wheelsets come with 12x135mm, or 12x142mm rear spacing, so must use one of two adapter options in order to fit 10x135mm frames with horizontal dropouts.

First, if you are using a 12x142mm hub, you must get either a 10x135mm adapter kit, or a 12x135mm adapter kit to achieve the correct hub width.

IF you are using a 12x135mm hub, you can pick from two methods:

 

1. Purchase a 10x135mm adapter kit which matches your model and revision of wheelset. Use a 10mm bolt on axle, or 10mm QR axle, to secure your hub/wheel to your frame. Note: Spank does offer 10x135mm adapter kits, but does not make or provide 10mm axles.

 

2. Purchase a 12to10mm Step Down Axle, which will allow your 12x135mm hub to fit into 10mm horizontal dropouts, without requiring hub adapters. Note: Spank does not make or provide 12to10mm step down axles.

 

Single Speed Conversion: If you wish to adapt your Spank rear hub to single speed using a Spank Single Speed Adapter Kit, you must first confirm that you have a Shimano standard freehub body. Single Speed Adapter Kits are not compatible with SRAM XD standard freehub bodies. Spank Single Speed Adapter Kits come with a 13 tooth steel rear cog, and the necessary spacers to adjust the centering of your cog. They fit easily over any Shimano freehub body, and make conversion to single speed quick and simple.

Quick Answer: Please follow >>> THIS LINK for a guide to the 2015-2019 spoke and nipple specifications, or, follow >>> THIS LINK for the guide to the 2020-2021 spoke and nipple specifications on all SPANK WHEELSETS.

Please note: Wheelsets using DSN type nipples, require spokes 2mm longer than wheel builds using standard external nipples. If you are attempting to rebuild a Spank wheel with new spokes and/or nipples, or custom building a wheelset with Spank rims and hubs, it is suggested that you use the correct nipple type, or spoke lengths may need to be recalculated.

Quick Answer: Please follow >>> THIS LINK for a guide to the 2015-2019 spoke and nipple specifications, or, follow >>> THIS LINK for the guide to the 2020-2021 spoke and nipple specifications on all SPANK WHEELSETS.

Please note: Wheelsets using DSN type nipples, require spokes 2mm longer than wheel builds using standard external nipples. If you are attempting to rebuild a Spank wheel with new spokes and/or nipples, or custom building a wheelset with Spank rims and hubs, it is suggested that you use the correct nipple type, or spoke lengths may need to be recalculated.

Quick Answer: Please follow this link for a guide to spoke and nipple specifications on all Spank wheelsets.

Spank uses only high grade Sandvik T302 stainless steel spokes.
Nipples vary depending on the model of Spank wheelset.

Please note: Wheelsets using DSN type nipples, require spokes 2mm longer than wheel builds using standard external nipples. If you are attempting to rebuild a Spank wheel with new spokes and/or nipples, or custom building a wheelset with Spank rims and hubs, it is suggested that you use the correct nipple type, or spoke lengths may need to be recalculated.

Quick Answer: Please follow this link for a guide to spoke and nipple specifications on all Spank wheelsets.

Spank uses only high grade Sandvik T302 stainless steel spokes.
Nipples vary depending on the model of Spank wheelset.

Please note: Wheelsets using DSN type nipples, require spokes 2mm longer than wheel builds using standard external nipples. If you are attempting to rebuild a Spank wheel with new spokes and/or nipples, or custom building a wheelset with Spank rims and hubs, it is suggested that you use the correct nipple type, or spoke lengths may need to be recalculated.

Quick Answer: Spank recommends a target tension of roughly 110-120 kgf, with as consistent tension throughout the wheel as possible. For a complete guide to the spokes and nipples used in all Spank Factory Wheels, please click this link.

Contrary to popular belief, most professional wheel builders and very experienced mechanics will confirm, that exceptionally high spoke tensions do not necessarily mean better or stronger wheels. Very high spoke tensions can create excessive rigidity, which can lead to a harsh ride feel, and also catastrophic failures when your wheels encounter overload forces. In fact, your wheels’ ability to flex ever so slightly under load and impact, improves ride quality, your wheels’ capability to track through rough terrain, and absorb big hits without damage.

What is important, is to achieve the most consistent spoke tension possible throughout your wheel, considering of course that adding dish to your wheel will mean some spoke tension variance from left to right side. Spank Industries recommends that for a good balance of strength, durability and comfort in your wheelset built with Spank rims, that a target spoke tension of roughly 110-120 kg is optimal.

Quick Answer: Spank recommends a target tension of roughly 110-120 kgf, with as consistent tension throughout the wheel as possible. For a complete guide to the spokes and nipples used in all Spank Factory Wheels, please click this link.

Contrary to popular belief, most professional wheel builders and very experienced mechanics will confirm, that exceptionally high spoke tensions do not necessarily mean better or stronger wheels. Very high spoke tensions can create excessive rigidity, which can lead to a harsh ride feel, and also catastrophic failures when your wheels encounter overload forces. In fact, your wheels’ ability to flex ever so slightly under load and impact, improves ride quality, your wheels’ capability to track through rough terrain, and absorb big hits without damage.

What is important, is to achieve the most consistent spoke tension possible throughout your wheel, considering of course that adding dish to your wheel will mean some spoke tension variance from left to right side. Spank Industries recommends that for a good balance of strength, durability and comfort in your wheelset built with Spank rims, that a target spoke tension of roughly 110-120 kg is optimal.

Quick Answer: For a complete guide to the spokes and nipples used in all Spank Factory Wheels, please click this link.

Rebuilding wheelsets, or replacing broken spokes in wheelsets, should only be performed by a trained mechanic or wheel builder. When a single spoke is replaced in a wheel, it’s very important that all spokes are loosened, and the complete wheel is then trued and tensioned correctly. Spokes should only be replaced with the exact same specification, as original spokes in y our Spank wheelset.

Quick Answer: For a complete guide to the spokes and nipples used in all Spank Factory Wheels, please click this link.

Rebuilding wheelsets, or replacing broken spokes in wheelsets, should only be performed by a trained mechanic or wheel builder. When a single spoke is replaced in a wheel, it’s very important that all spokes are loosened, and the complete wheel is then trued and tensioned correctly. Spokes should only be replaced with the exact same specification, as original spokes in y our Spank wheelset.

Quick Answer: As with any part of your mountain bike, regular service is important to ensure a long life, top performance, and safety. For assemblies such as wheelsets, this is even more important. The frequency of which you perform service on your wheelsets depends highly on the amount and type of riding you do. If you ride several times a week, then it’s suggested that every couple of months you do a regular check on your wheels. If you only ride once every week or two, then that might be just a couple of times per season. More aggressive riders, or riders in particularly harsh environments, may want to increase the frequency of regular maintenance.
It is suggested that maintenance and service to any Spank part, is performed only by a trained and experienced mechanic. Attempts to service hubs and wheels without the necessary experience or correct tools, can lead to premature failure.

Wheel Stability in Fork and Frame – Before each ride – check that both your front wheel and rear wheel are securely fixed into your fork and frame. First check that Axle Quick Release Levers, or Bolt on Axles, are tightened sufficiently. Then, while wheels are fixed securely in the fork and frame, grasp your wheel firmly at the tire, and attempt to move it from side to side. If any play exists between the hub/fork, hub/frame, or hub/rim, your wheels, fork and frame should be inspected by a trained mechanic.

Spoke Tension – After your first couple hard rides on new wheels & every couple of months – check your spokes around the perimeter of both wheels, to ensure they have an even spoke tension. Its best to use a spoke tension gauge for this, but if that’s not available to you, it’s often sufficient for spot checks, to go around the wheel squeezing each set of two crossed spokes together, and releasing quickly. This motion will make a vibrational sound, at a specific tone. Ideally as you move from one pair of spokes to the next, around the wheel, the tone of the vibration will be very similar. If a set of spokes produces a completely different tone, then you’ve isolated a spot where the tension is either too high or low. In such case you should bring your wheels to a trained mechanic for service. At least once or twice per season, it’s recommended that a trained mechanic checks spoke tension accurately with a calibrated gauge.

Cleaning and Lubricating – Every couple of months or more – It’s recommended that hubs are frequently checked for any contamination, and lubricated. To do this the wheels must be removed from the bike, adapter caps should be removed from both sides, and freehub should be removed from the rear hub shell. Clean internals thoroughly to remove any contaminates. Lightly lubricate all parts, including the bearings, axle shaft, ratchet ring, spacer ring, and freehub and pawls, with hub grease or a pure lightweight bike grease.

Rim Inspection – Several times per season – First, with wheels mounted to your frame and fork, spin each wheel a few times slowly, and check that the rims are straight, and no vertical hops or side to side deformation are present. To inspect your rims thoroughly, it’s recommended to remove tires, and any rim strip or tubeless tape. Clean the rim thoroughly inside and out with alcohol to remove any contamination. Be careful not to rub decals too much with alcohol, as this can cause discoloration. Once rims are cleaned, check all spoke holes for any cracking. If cracking exists, have your rim checked by a trained mechanic. It is suggested that the rims should be replaced immediately. Check the rim bead hooks on both sides. Run your finger along the edge of each bead hook around the entire perimeter of the rim, checking for any sharp edges, burrs, or dents. If any are found, have your rim checked by a trained mechanic. Damaged bead hooks can lead to tire damage, or loss of tire security which can lead to crashes and injury. Check the inner tubewell of your rim, for any denting or discoloration to or near the Oohbah bulge. If damage is noted in the tubewell, have your rim checked by a trained mechanic. This could indicate a compromised rim from a big impact, which could weaken the rim overall and could lead to catastrophic failure.

Freehubs and Pawls – Every couple of months - Especially in the case of alloy freehub bodies, its recommended to remove the cassette from the freehub, and freehub from the hub shell, and check for any wear and tear, discoloration, deformation, cracks or other damage. If any metal shavings or chips are evident either on the freehub body, or within the hub shell, your hub should be checked by a trained mechanic. Clean and lubricate your freehub body before reassembling. Common wear to freehubs includes scarring of the splines on Shimano standard freehubs, by the cassette. Small scars are okay, but if too severe, they may create some play between cassette and freehub, which stipulates replacing your freehub body. Another common issue is cracking or deformation of the pawls or pawl seats in the freehub body. Check the action of each pawl on your freehub by hand. It should be smooth and snap out to full extension quickly and without resistance. Clean each pawl and pawl seat thoroughly, and lubricate. Check for any deformation to the seats where the pawls insert into the freehub body. If deformation exists, check with a trained mechanic. You may need to replace your freehub body.

Bearings – At least once or twice per season – Spank hubs are assembled with high end Japanese ball bearings, packed to exact specifications in Taiwan. However, bearings are wearing parts and should be replaced at the first sign of scratchiness, excessive drag, seizing or making noise. If your bearings require changing, replacement bearings are available from Spank and all Spank distributors. It is highly suggested that bearing replacements are only done by a trained mechanic with the correct tools. Trying to remove old bearings without the correct bearing puller, or trying to assemble new bearings without the correct press, can lead to damaged hubs, reduced bearing life, or failure of your wheelset.

*Spank rear hubs have 4-5 bearings, 2 in the hub shell, and 2 in Shimano standard freehub bodies (3 in the case of XD freehubs). To check them, remove the adapter caps and freehub, clean hub and freehub internals thoroughly, and run each of the bearings a few times in both directions by finger, to check for any scratchiness, noise, or dragging. If bearings are all smooth, re-lubricate your freehub and hub internals and reassemble.

*Spank front hubs have 2 bearings. To check them, remove the adapter caps from both sides of your hub, which will expose the bearings. Clean all hub internals thoroughly, then run each bearing by finger a few times in both directions, checking for any scratchiness, noise, or dragging. If bearings are all smooth, re-lubricate your hub internals and reassemble adapter caps.

Ratchet Rings – Twice per season or if any noise exists in rear hubs – Ratchet rings are the toothed rings in your rear hub shell. They are threaded into the shell, and cannot be removed or replaced. Ratchet rings should be periodically checked for any cracks, excessive scarring, or deformation. If damage is noticed, the hub should be checked by a trained mechanic. Another issue that can occur is the ratchet ring stripping free from the hub body. If it is noticed that your freehub can spin in both directions, even a small amount, then the hub should be checked by a trained mechanic. In most cases this stipulates replacing the hub and rebuilding the wheel.

Quick Answer: As with any part of your mountain bike, regular service is important to ensure a long life, top performance, and safety. For assemblies such as wheelsets, this is even more important. The frequency of which you perform service on your wheelsets depends highly on the amount and type of riding you do. If you ride several times a week, then it’s suggested that every couple of months you do a regular check on your wheels. If you only ride once every week or two, then that might be just a couple of times per season. More aggressive riders, or riders in particularly harsh environments, may want to increase the frequency of regular maintenance.
It is suggested that maintenance and service to any Spank part, is performed only by a trained and experienced mechanic. Attempts to service hubs and wheels without the necessary experience or correct tools, can lead to premature failure.

Wheel Stability in Fork and Frame – Before each ride – check that both your front wheel and rear wheel are securely fixed into your fork and frame. First check that Axle Quick Release Levers, or Bolt on Axles, are tightened sufficiently. Then, while wheels are fixed securely in the fork and frame, grasp your wheel firmly at the tire, and attempt to move it from side to side. If any play exists between the hub/fork, hub/frame, or hub/rim, your wheels, fork and frame should be inspected by a trained mechanic.

Spoke Tension – After your first couple hard rides on new wheels & every couple of months – check your spokes around the perimeter of both wheels, to ensure they have an even spoke tension. Its best to use a spoke tension gauge for this, but if that’s not available to you, it’s often sufficient for spot checks, to go around the wheel squeezing each set of two crossed spokes together, and releasing quickly. This motion will make a vibrational sound, at a specific tone. Ideally as you move from one pair of spokes to the next, around the wheel, the tone of the vibration will be very similar. If a set of spokes produces a completely different tone, then you’ve isolated a spot where the tension is either too high or low. In such case you should bring your wheels to a trained mechanic for service. At least once or twice per season, it’s recommended that a trained mechanic checks spoke tension accurately with a calibrated gauge.

Cleaning and Lubricating – Every couple of months or more – It’s recommended that hubs are frequently checked for any contamination, and lubricated. To do this the wheels must be removed from the bike, adapter caps should be removed from both sides, and freehub should be removed from the rear hub shell. Clean internals thoroughly to remove any contaminates. Lightly lubricate all parts, including the bearings, axle shaft, ratchet ring, spacer ring, and freehub and pawls, with hub grease or a pure lightweight bike grease.

Rim Inspection – Several times per season – First, with wheels mounted to your frame and fork, spin each wheel a few times slowly, and check that the rims are straight, and no vertical hops or side to side deformation are present. To inspect your rims thoroughly, it’s recommended to remove tires, and any rim strip or tubeless tape. Clean the rim thoroughly inside and out with alcohol to remove any contamination. Be careful not to rub decals too much with alcohol, as this can cause discoloration. Once rims are cleaned, check all spoke holes for any cracking. If cracking exists, have your rim checked by a trained mechanic. It is suggested that the rims should be replaced immediately. Check the rim bead hooks on both sides. Run your finger along the edge of each bead hook around the entire perimeter of the rim, checking for any sharp edges, burrs, or dents. If any are found, have your rim checked by a trained mechanic. Damaged bead hooks can lead to tire damage, or loss of tire security which can lead to crashes and injury. Check the inner tubewell of your rim, for any denting or discoloration to or near the Oohbah bulge. If damage is noted in the tubewell, have your rim checked by a trained mechanic. This could indicate a compromised rim from a big impact, which could weaken the rim overall and could lead to catastrophic failure.

Freehubs and Pawls – Every couple of months - Especially in the case of alloy freehub bodies, its recommended to remove the cassette from the freehub, and freehub from the hub shell, and check for any wear and tear, discoloration, deformation, cracks or other damage. If any metal shavings or chips are evident either on the freehub body, or within the hub shell, your hub should be checked by a trained mechanic. Clean and lubricate your freehub body before reassembling. Common wear to freehubs includes scarring of the splines on Shimano standard freehubs, by the cassette. Small scars are okay, but if too severe, they may create some play between cassette and freehub, which stipulates replacing your freehub body. Another common issue is cracking or deformation of the pawls or pawl seats in the freehub body. Check the action of each pawl on your freehub by hand. It should be smooth and snap out to full extension quickly and without resistance. Clean each pawl and pawl seat thoroughly, and lubricate. Check for any deformation to the seats where the pawls insert into the freehub body. If deformation exists, check with a trained mechanic. You may need to replace your freehub body.

Bearings – At least once or twice per season – Spank hubs are assembled with high end Japanese ball bearings, packed to exact specifications in Taiwan. However, bearings are wearing parts and should be replaced at the first sign of scratchiness, excessive drag, seizing or making noise. If your bearings require changing, replacement bearings are available from Spank and all Spank distributors. It is highly suggested that bearing replacements are only done by a trained mechanic with the correct tools. Trying to remove old bearings without the correct bearing puller, or trying to assemble new bearings without the correct press, can lead to damaged hubs, reduced bearing life, or failure of your wheelset.

*Spank rear hubs have 4-5 bearings, 2 in the hub shell, and 2 in Shimano standard freehub bodies (3 in the case of XD freehubs). To check them, remove the adapter caps and freehub, clean hub and freehub internals thoroughly, and run each of the bearings a few times in both directions by finger, to check for any scratchiness, noise, or dragging. If bearings are all smooth, re-lubricate your freehub and hub internals and reassemble.

*Spank front hubs have 2 bearings. To check them, remove the adapter caps from both sides of your hub, which will expose the bearings. Clean all hub internals thoroughly, then run each bearing by finger a few times in both directions, checking for any scratchiness, noise, or dragging. If bearings are all smooth, re-lubricate your hub internals and reassemble adapter caps.

Ratchet Rings – Twice per season or if any noise exists in rear hubs – Ratchet rings are the toothed rings in your rear hub shell. They are threaded into the shell, and cannot be removed or replaced. Ratchet rings should be periodically checked for any cracks, excessive scarring, or deformation. If damage is noticed, the hub should be checked by a trained mechanic. Another issue that can occur is the ratchet ring stripping free from the hub body. If it is noticed that your freehub can spin in both directions, even a small amount, then the hub should be checked by a trained mechanic. In most cases this stipulates replacing the hub and rebuilding the wheel.

Quick Answer: Spank Industries hubs have been designed to fit the widest possible range of frame and fork standards. In most cases we have an adapter that will accommodate the standard you need. Please click this link for a complete guide to all Spank hub adapters, and refer to guidelines below.

There are a few rules of thumb that will help you to understand what is, and what is not possible.

 

Rear Hubs:

135/142mm Rear Hubs can fit QR/10/12mm x 135mm frames or 12x142mm frames.

135/142mm Rear Hubs cannot be adapted to 150mm or 157mm frames.

135/142mm Rear Hubs can only be adapted to Boost frames with a 3rd party Boost Adapter kit. The use of such kits may require a re-dishing of your wheel, which will void your wheel warranty.

150/157mm Rear Hubs can fit 12x150mm or 12x157mm frames.

150/157mm Rear Hubs cannot be adapted to fit 135mm or 142mm frames.

150/157mm Rear Hubs cannot be adapted to fit Boost 148mm frames.

Boost 148mm Rear Hubs only fit Boost 148mm frames.

Boost 148mm Rear Hubs cannot be adapted to fit 135mm, 142mm, 150mm, or 157mm frames.

Front Hubs:

15x100mm Front Hubs can be adapted to fit 20x110mm, or QRx100mm forks.

20x110mm Front Hubs can be adapted to fit 15x100, or QRx100 forks.

QRx100 Front Hubs can be adapted to fit 15x100, or 20x110 forks.

Non-Boost Front Hubs can be adapted to fit Boost forks with a Spank Boost Adapter Kit, which does NOT require re-dishing your wheel, and does not affect your wheel warranty.

Boost 15x110 Front Hubs only fit Boost forks.

Boost 15x110 Front Hubs can be adapted to fit Boost 20x110 forks.

Boost 15x110 Front Hubs cannot be adapted to fit non-Boost forks.

Please refer to this chart for complete compatibility of all Spank wheels.

When choosing the Spank hub adapter you need, the first thing you need to do is confirm which type of hub you have.

*All Oozy hubs, regardless of model year, and regardless of 28 hole or 32 hole, use the Oozy/Spike adapters. Example: Oozy/Spike Rear Hub 12x142mm Adapter

*All Spike hubs, regardless of model year, use Oozy/Spike hub adapters. Example: Oozy/Spike Rear Hub 12x142mm Adapter

*All Spoon hubs, regardless of model year, use Spoon hub adapters. Spoon hubs are NOT compatible with Oozy/Spike Adapters.

*Spoon 32 Wheelsets built between 2011 and 2015, were built with Spoon hubs (so require Spoon adapters).

*Spoon 32 Wheelsets built after 2015, are built with Spike hubs (so require Oozy/Spike adapters).

Hubs are marked clearly with model and size in the center of the hub body.

 

*Spike Race 28 EVO Wheelsets built between 2011 and 2015, were built with Spoon hubs, (so require Spoon adapters).

*Spike Race 28 EVO Wheelsets built after 2015, are built with Spike hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike adapters).

Hubs are marked clearly with model and size in the center of the hub body.

*All Spoon 28, 24” and 20” Wheelsets are built with Spike 32 hole J-Hook hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike adapters)

*Spike Race 28 Enduro Wheelsets, were all built with Oozy Trail 28 hole, straightpull hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike adapters).

*Oozy Trail Wheelsets, (including Oozy 26AL EVO, Oozy Trail 260, and Oozy Trail 295) built between 2011 and 2015, were built with 28 hole Oozy Straightpull hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike adapters).

*Oozy Trail Wheelsets, (including Oozy Trail 295, Oozy Trail 345, Oozy 350, and Oozy Trail 395+) built after 2015, are built with Oozy Trail 32 hole hubs (so require Oozy/Spike hub adapters).

*All Spike Race 33 Wheelsets are built with Spike 32 hole J-hook hubs (so require Oozy/Spike Adapters)

*All Spike 350 Vibrocore Wheelsets are built with Spike 32 hole J-hook hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike Adapters)

Once you have confirmed which model hubs you have, it should be easy to visit the HUB ADAPTERS page on the Spank Industries website, to locate the one you need. Adapters are stocked by all Spank distributors globally. IF you are still having trouble, contact an authorized Spank dealer or distributor, or contact us at info@spank-ind.com.

Quick Answer: Spank Industries hubs have been designed to fit the widest possible range of frame and fork standards. In most cases we have an adapter that will accommodate the standard you need. Please click this link for a complete guide to all Spank hub adapters, and refer to guidelines below.

There are a few rules of thumb that will help you to understand what is, and what is not possible.

 

Rear Hubs:

135/142mm Rear Hubs can fit QR/10/12mm x 135mm frames or 12x142mm frames.

135/142mm Rear Hubs cannot be adapted to 150mm or 157mm frames.

135/142mm Rear Hubs can only be adapted to Boost frames with a 3rd party Boost Adapter kit. The use of such kits may require a re-dishing of your wheel, which will void your wheel warranty.

150/157mm Rear Hubs can fit 12x150mm or 12x157mm frames.

150/157mm Rear Hubs cannot be adapted to fit 135mm or 142mm frames.

150/157mm Rear Hubs cannot be adapted to fit Boost 148mm frames.

Boost 148mm Rear Hubs only fit Boost 148mm frames.

Boost 148mm Rear Hubs cannot be adapted to fit 135mm, 142mm, 150mm, or 157mm frames.

Front Hubs:

15x100mm Front Hubs can be adapted to fit 20x110mm, or QRx100mm forks.

20x110mm Front Hubs can be adapted to fit 15x100, or QRx100 forks.

QRx100 Front Hubs can be adapted to fit 15x100, or 20x110 forks.

Non-Boost Front Hubs can be adapted to fit Boost forks with a Spank Boost Adapter Kit, which does NOT require re-dishing your wheel, and does not affect your wheel warranty.

Boost 15x110 Front Hubs only fit Boost forks.

Boost 15x110 Front Hubs can be adapted to fit Boost 20x110 forks.

Boost 15x110 Front Hubs cannot be adapted to fit non-Boost forks.

Please refer to this chart for complete compatibility of all Spank wheels.

When choosing the Spank hub adapter you need, the first thing you need to do is confirm which type of hub you have.

*All Oozy hubs, regardless of model year, and regardless of 28 hole or 32 hole, use the Oozy/Spike adapters. Example: Oozy/Spike Rear Hub 12x142mm Adapter

*All Spike hubs, regardless of model year, use Oozy/Spike hub adapters. Example: Oozy/Spike Rear Hub 12x142mm Adapter

*All Spoon hubs, regardless of model year, use Spoon hub adapters. Spoon hubs are NOT compatible with Oozy/Spike Adapters.

*Spoon 32 Wheelsets built between 2011 and 2015, were built with Spoon hubs (so require Spoon adapters).

*Spoon 32 Wheelsets built after 2015, are built with Spike hubs (so require Oozy/Spike adapters).

Hubs are marked clearly with model and size in the center of the hub body.

 

*Spike Race 28 EVO Wheelsets built between 2011 and 2015, were built with Spoon hubs, (so require Spoon adapters).

*Spike Race 28 EVO Wheelsets built after 2015, are built with Spike hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike adapters).

Hubs are marked clearly with model and size in the center of the hub body.

*All Spoon 28, 24” and 20” Wheelsets are built with Spike 32 hole J-Hook hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike adapters)

*Spike Race 28 Enduro Wheelsets, were all built with Oozy Trail 28 hole, straightpull hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike adapters).

*Oozy Trail Wheelsets, (including Oozy 26AL EVO, Oozy Trail 260, and Oozy Trail 295) built between 2011 and 2015, were built with 28 hole Oozy Straightpull hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike adapters).

*Oozy Trail Wheelsets, (including Oozy Trail 295, Oozy Trail 345, Oozy 350, and Oozy Trail 395+) built after 2015, are built with Oozy Trail 32 hole hubs (so require Oozy/Spike hub adapters).

*All Spike Race 33 Wheelsets are built with Spike 32 hole J-hook hubs (so require Oozy/Spike Adapters)

*All Spike 350 Vibrocore Wheelsets are built with Spike 32 hole J-hook hubs, (so require Oozy/Spike Adapters)

Once you have confirmed which model hubs you have, it should be easy to visit the HUB ADAPTERS page on the Spank Industries website, to locate the one you need. Adapters are stocked by all Spank distributors globally. IF you are still having trouble, contact an authorized Spank dealer or distributor, or contact us at info@spank-ind.com.

Quick Answer: All Spank rear hubs are compatible with both Shimano HG standard (splined), and SRAM XD standard (threaded) cassettes. However, it is important to make sure that your hub is equipped with the correct freehub body to fit your cassette.
Shimano standard cassettes fit onto Shimano standard splined freehub bodies only. Both alloy and steel freehub body options are available from Spank and our distributors. Shimano standard freehub bodies do not require special adapter caps for your hubs.

 

XD standard cassettes fit onto XD standard threaded freehub bodies only. Alloy XD freehub bodies are available from Spank and our distributors. If you wish to update the Shimano standard rear freehub on your Spank rear hub, to a XD standard freehub, it is necessary to also change the right (drive side) adapter cap. Drive side adapter caps for QRx135, 12x135, 12x142, 12x150, 12x157, and Boost 12x148 standards are included with aftermarket Spank XD freehub bodies.

Quick Answer: All Spank rear hubs are compatible with both Shimano HG standard (splined), and SRAM XD standard (threaded) cassettes. However, it is important to make sure that your hub is equipped with the correct freehub body to fit your cassette.
Shimano standard cassettes fit onto Shimano standard splined freehub bodies only. Both alloy and steel freehub body options are available from Spank and our distributors. Shimano standard freehub bodies do not require special adapter caps for your hubs.

 

XD standard cassettes fit onto XD standard threaded freehub bodies only. Alloy XD freehub bodies are available from Spank and our distributors. If you wish to update the Shimano standard rear freehub on your Spank rear hub, to a XD standard freehub, it is necessary to also change the right (drive side) adapter cap. Drive side adapter caps for QRx135, 12x135, 12x142, 12x150, 12x157, and Boost 12x148 standards are included with aftermarket Spank XD freehub bodies.

Quick Answer: Spank Spike and Oozy hubs are available in Boost standard, and in non-Boost standard. Front non-Boost Spank Spike and Oozy hubs can be adapted to fit Boost forks, with a Spank Front Hub Boost Adapter Kit. Rear Spike and Oozy non-Boost wheels cannot be adapted to fit Boost frames, without the use of a 3rd party adapter kit and a re-dish of your wheel (conditions apply). Spoon Hubs (2011-2015) cannot be converted to Boost standard.

Boost is a relatively new standard and spacing used on some modern MTB frames, forks, and hubs. Boost is intended to widen the flanges on hubs, thus spreading the spoke pattern, and helping to stiffen wheel builds. Boost also addresses certain chainline and rear triangle spacing issues which inhibited progressive frame designs. Boost as it was introduced to the market, was limited to front 15x110mm spacing, and rear 12x148mm spacing. However, as Boost becomes more and more common, new “Boost 20” (Boost 20x110mm with wide hub flanges), is becoming popular in DH forks, and new Boost rear spacing standards have started to emerge.

Boost hubs are not only slightly wider than non-Boost hubs and have wider flanges, but also position the brake rotor differently to non-Boost hubs. On rear Boost hubs the brake rotor mounts are located 3mm further to the non-drive side, than on non-Boost rear hubs. On front Boost hubs, the brake rotor mounts are located 5mm further to the non-drive side, than on non-Boost front hubs.

Spank Spike and Oozy Non-Boost Front hubs, can be adapted to fit with Boost forks, with the use of a Spike/Oozy Front Hub Boost Adapter Kit. This kit contains two Boost spacing adapter caps, a 5mm thick brake rotor spacer, and 6 extra-long brake rotor bolts. This kit will convert an Oozy 15x100 front hub, or Spike 20x110 front hub, to 15x110mm spacing, and adjust the brake rotor accordingly. The use of Spank’s Front Hub Boost Adapter Kit does not require any re-dish of your front wheel, and will not void your wheel’s warranty.

Spank Spike and Oozy Non-Boost Rear Hubs, cannot be adapted to fit with Boost frames, without the use of a 3rd party Boost Adapter Kit. Spank does not produce rear hub Boost adapters, as their use normally means a re-dish of the rear wheel is necessary. Any attempt to use a 3rd party Boost adapter, and/or re-dish your Spank rear wheel to fit with a Boost frame, will void your wheel’s warranty. Spank recommends if you must convert your rear Spike or Oozy rear wheel to Boost standard, that you contact a Spank distributor or Sales and Service Center, to purchase a Boost rear hub, and have your wheel rebuilt by an experienced professional. Special offers are often available in these cases.

Spank Spoon Front and Rear Non-Boost Hubs, cannot be adapted to fit with Boost forks or frames. Any attempt to use a 3rd party adapter kit, or attempts to re-dish your wheels, will void your wheel’s warranty.

Quick Answer: Spank Spike and Oozy hubs are available in Boost standard, and in non-Boost standard. Front non-Boost Spank Spike and Oozy hubs can be adapted to fit Boost forks, with a Spank Front Hub Boost Adapter Kit. Rear Spike and Oozy non-Boost wheels cannot be adapted to fit Boost frames, without the use of a 3rd party adapter kit and a re-dish of your wheel (conditions apply). Spoon Hubs (2011-2015) cannot be converted to Boost standard.

Boost is a relatively new standard and spacing used on some modern MTB frames, forks, and hubs. Boost is intended to widen the flanges on hubs, thus spreading the spoke pattern, and helping to stiffen wheel builds. Boost also addresses certain chainline and rear triangle spacing issues which inhibited progressive frame designs. Boost as it was introduced to the market, was limited to front 15x110mm spacing, and rear 12x148mm spacing. However, as Boost becomes more and more common, new “Boost 20” (Boost 20x110mm with wide hub flanges), is becoming popular in DH forks, and new Boost rear spacing standards have started to emerge.

Boost hubs are not only slightly wider than non-Boost hubs and have wider flanges, but also position the brake rotor differently to non-Boost hubs. On rear Boost hubs the brake rotor mounts are located 3mm further to the non-drive side, than on non-Boost rear hubs. On front Boost hubs, the brake rotor mounts are located 5mm further to the non-drive side, than on non-Boost front hubs.

Spank Spike and Oozy Non-Boost Front hubs, can be adapted to fit with Boost forks, with the use of a Spike/Oozy Front Hub Boost Adapter Kit. This kit contains two Boost spacing adapter caps, a 5mm thick brake rotor spacer, and 6 extra-long brake rotor bolts. This kit will convert an Oozy 15x100 front hub, or Spike 20x110 front hub, to 15x110mm spacing, and adjust the brake rotor accordingly. The use of Spank’s Front Hub Boost Adapter Kit does not require any re-dish of your front wheel, and will not void your wheel’s warranty.

Spank Spike and Oozy Non-Boost Rear Hubs, cannot be adapted to fit with Boost frames, without the use of a 3rd party Boost Adapter Kit. Spank does not produce rear hub Boost adapters, as their use normally means a re-dish of the rear wheel is necessary. Any attempt to use a 3rd party Boost adapter, and/or re-dish your Spank rear wheel to fit with a Boost frame, will void your wheel’s warranty. Spank recommends if you must convert your rear Spike or Oozy rear wheel to Boost standard, that you contact a Spank distributor or Sales and Service Center, to purchase a Boost rear hub, and have your wheel rebuilt by an experienced professional. Special offers are often available in these cases.

Spank Spoon Front and Rear Non-Boost Hubs, cannot be adapted to fit with Boost forks or frames. Any attempt to use a 3rd party adapter kit, or attempts to re-dish your wheels, will void your wheel’s warranty.

Quick Answer: As with any hubs, regular maintenance of your Spank hub is important to ensure longevity and continued performance.  Intervals of maintenance depend highly on how much you ride, and the environment you ride in. Normally hub maintenance should be performed at least 2-3 times per season. As a rule of thumb, if you ride more than a few times a week, or you frequently ride in very wet, or very dusty conditions, its suggested that you perform regular maintenance at least once every couple of months. At least once per season, it is suggested that you have your hubs serviced by a trained mechanic. Please refer to maintenance points below for details.

If bearings must be replaced, it is recommended that only a trained mechanic with the correct tools/equipment performs this service. Attempts to remove bearings without a bearing puller tool, or to press in bearings without a bearing press, can lead to damaged hub bodies, or premature bearing and hub part failure.

Regular Rear Hub Maintenance:

1. While the wheel is still assembled to the bicycle, grasp the rim firmly and push it to the left and right. Disregarding rim flex, and tire flex, check to see if any play exists between the rim and hub, which would allow the wheel to move left and right while the hub is fixed in the frame. If any play exists, it may indicate that hub bearings should be replaced, and it is suggested to consult a trained mechanic or your local Spank Sales and Service Center or Distributor.
   
2. Remove your wheel from the bike, and your brake rotor from the hub, and check the outer surfaces of the hub for any cracks, discoloration, stress marks, or deformation. This includes both the body of the hub, rotor mount bosses, and spoke holes. If any damage is present, it’s advised to consult a trained mechanic, or your local Spank distributor, or Sales and Service Center for inspection and advice.
   
3. Remove the adapter caps and freehub body from your hub. Be sure to remove the black freehub seal and freehub spacer ring, from the hub body along with the freehub. Check the freehub body for any cracks, discoloration, stress marks, or deformation, as well as any excessive scarring of the splines which secure the cassette.  Also check the freehub seal for any cracks or tears. If any damage is present, it’s advised to consult a trained mechanic, or your local Spank distributor, or Sales and Service Center for inspection and advice.
   
4. While the adapter caps are removed, check that the adapter cap o-ring seals are in good condition, and not cracked or torn.
   
5. With the freehub body removed, thoroughly clean the hub internals of any contaminants. 
   
6. Check visible surfaces and threads on the internal axle shaft, for any damage.
   
7. Check the ratchet ring within the hub body, for any cracks, excessive scarring, or damage. If any damage is present to the axle shaft or ratchet ring, it’s advised to consult a trained mechanic, or your local Spank distributor, or Sales and Service Center for inspection and advice.
   
8. With your finger, roll the bearings on both ends of the hub body a few time, checking for any scratchy feeling or crunching sounds. Bearings should rotate smoothly and silently. If any bearing damage is noticed, it’s a good idea to replace your hub bearings before they are compromised, which could lead to other hub issues.
   
9. Re-lubricate the hub internals, including the axle shaft, ratchet ring, and bearing surfaces, with a light weight pure grease, or specific hub grease. Note: heavy weight lubricants, or lubricants which are not pure and may contain some particulate matter, can damage your hub, and might cause the hub pawls to stick, which can be dangerous.
   
10. 10.    Clean your freehub body thoroughly of any contaminants. Check both bearings in the freehub body, to ensure they spin smoothly and quietly. If any bearing damage is noticed, it’s a good idea to replace your freehub bearings before they are compromised, which could lead to other hub issues.
    
11. Check that all freehub pawls can be depressed smoothly, and will rebound quickly and smoothly back to their outward position. If pawls are deformed in any way, or do not rebound correctly, they may need to be replaced.
    
12. Re-lubricate you freehub body, including all inner surfaces, and spring and pawls, with a light weight pure grease, or specific hub grease. Then, replace the freehub seal onto the freehub.
    
13. Align all internal parts inside the freehub body, to allow the axle to pass through it. Then replace the freehub body spacer ring into the freehub.
    
14. Slide the freehub spacer ring and freehub over the axle shaft of your hub, until it is completely flush with the hub body. In most cases the freehub can be rotated slightly, which will depress the pawls allowing it to insert into the hub body fully. If this is troublesome, it might be necessary to gently depress the pawls as you slide the freehub into the hub body.
    
15. Rotate the freehub a few times by hand, to ensure the pawls are clicking through the ratchet ring, and there is no interference. Then, reassemble adapter caps, and tighten to 8Nm.
    

Regular Front Hub Maintenance:

1. While the wheel is still assembled to the bicycle, grasp the rim firmly and push it to the left and right. Disregarding rim flex, and tire flex, check to see if any play exists between the rim and hub, which would allow the wheel to move left and right while the hub is fixed in the frame. If any play exists, it may indicate that hub bearings should be replaced, and it is suggested to consult a trained mechanic or your local Spank Sales and Service Center or Distributor.
   
2. Remove your wheel from the bike, and your brake rotor from the hub, and check the outer surfaces of the hub for any cracks, discoloration, stress marks, or deformation. This includes both the body of the hub, rotor mount bosses, and spoke holes. If any damage is present, it’s advised to consult a trained mechanic, or your local Spank distributor, or Sales and Service Center for inspection and advice.
   
3. Remove the adapter caps from your hub, and thoroughly clean hub internals and adapter caps of any contaminants. Check that the adapter cap o-ring seals are in good condition, and not cracked or torn.
   
4. With your finger, roll the bearings on both ends of the hub body a few time, checking for any scratchy feeling or crunching sounds. Bearings should rotate smoothly and silently. If any bearing damage is noticed, it’s a good idea to replace your hub bearings before they are compromised, which could lead to other hub issues.
   
5. Re-lubricate all surfaces of hub internals thoroughly, and ensure that all internal parts are aligned, allowing the fork axle to pass through the hub.
   
6. Replace left and right hub adapter caps, and brake rotor.

Quick Answer: As with any hubs, regular maintenance of your Spank hub is important to ensure longevity and continued performance.  Intervals of maintenance depend highly on how much you ride, and the environment you ride in. Normally hub maintenance should be performed at least 2-3 times per season. As a rule of thumb, if you ride more than a few times a week, or you frequently ride in very wet, or very dusty conditions, its suggested that you perform regular maintenance at least once every couple of months. At least once per season, it is suggested that you have your hubs serviced by a trained mechanic. Please refer to maintenance points below for details.

If bearings must be replaced, it is recommended that only a trained mechanic with the correct tools/equipment performs this service. Attempts to remove bearings without a bearing puller tool, or to press in bearings without a bearing press, can lead to damaged hub bodies, or premature bearing and hub part failure.

Regular Rear Hub Maintenance:

1. While the wheel is still assembled to the bicycle, grasp the rim firmly and push it to the left and right. Disregarding rim flex, and tire flex, check to see if any play exists between the rim and hub, which would allow the wheel to move left and right while the hub is fixed in the frame. If any play exists, it may indicate that hub bearings should be replaced, and it is suggested to consult a trained mechanic or your local Spank Sales and Service Center or Distributor.
   
2. Remove your wheel from the bike, and your brake rotor from the hub, and check the outer surfaces of the hub for any cracks, discoloration, stress marks, or deformation. This includes both the body of the hub, rotor mount bosses, and spoke holes. If any damage is present, it’s advised to consult a trained mechanic, or your local Spank distributor, or Sales and Service Center for inspection and advice.
   
3. Remove the adapter caps and freehub body from your hub. Be sure to remove the black freehub seal and freehub spacer ring, from the hub body along with the freehub. Check the freehub body for any cracks, discoloration, stress marks, or deformation, as well as any excessive scarring of the splines which secure the cassette.  Also check the freehub seal for any cracks or tears. If any damage is present, it’s advised to consult a trained mechanic, or your local Spank distributor, or Sales and Service Center for inspection and advice.
   
4. While the adapter caps are removed, check that the adapter cap o-ring seals are in good condition, and not cracked or torn.
   
5. With the freehub body removed, thoroughly clean the hub internals of any contaminants. 
   
6. Check visible surfaces and threads on the internal axle shaft, for any damage.
   
7. Check the ratchet ring within the hub body, for any cracks, excessive scarring, or damage. If any damage is present to the axle shaft or ratchet ring, it’s advised to consult a trained mechanic, or your local Spank distributor, or Sales and Service Center for inspection and advice.
   
8. With your finger, roll the bearings on both ends of the hub body a few time, checking for any scratchy feeling or crunching sounds. Bearings should rotate smoothly and silently. If any bearing damage is noticed, it’s a good idea to replace your hub bearings before they are compromised, which could lead to other hub issues.
   
9. Re-lubricate the hub internals, including the axle shaft, ratchet ring, and bearing surfaces, with a light weight pure grease, or specific hub grease. Note: heavy weight lubricants, or lubricants which are not pure and may contain some particulate matter, can damage your hub, and might cause the hub pawls to stick, which can be dangerous.
   
10. 10.    Clean your freehub body thoroughly of any contaminants. Check both bearings in the freehub body, to ensure they spin smoothly and quietly. If any bearing damage is noticed, it’s a good idea to replace your freehub bearings before they are compromised, which could lead to other hub issues.
    
11. Check that all freehub pawls can be depressed smoothly, and will rebound quickly and smoothly back to their outward position. If pawls are deformed in any way, or do not rebound correctly, they may need to be replaced.
    
12. Re-lubricate you freehub body, including all inner surfaces, and spring and pawls, with a light weight pure grease, or specific hub grease. Then, replace the freehub seal onto the freehub.
    
13. Align all internal parts inside the freehub body, to allow the axle to pass through it. Then replace the freehub body spacer ring into the freehub.
    
14. Slide the freehub spacer ring and freehub over the axle shaft of your hub, until it is completely flush with the hub body. In most cases the freehub can be rotated slightly, which will depress the pawls allowing it to insert into the hub body fully. If this is troublesome, it might be necessary to gently depress the pawls as you slide the freehub into the hub body.
    
15. Rotate the freehub a few times by hand, to ensure the pawls are clicking through the ratchet ring, and there is no interference. Then, reassemble adapter caps, and tighten to 8Nm.
    

Regular Front Hub Maintenance:

1. While the wheel is still assembled to the bicycle, grasp the rim firmly and push it to the left and right. Disregarding rim flex, and tire flex, check to see if any play exists between the rim and hub, which would allow the wheel to move left and right while the hub is fixed in the frame. If any play exists, it may indicate that hub bearings should be replaced, and it is suggested to consult a trained mechanic or your local Spank Sales and Service Center or Distributor.
   
2. Remove your wheel from the bike, and your brake rotor from the hub, and check the outer surfaces of the hub for any cracks, discoloration, stress marks, or deformation. This includes both the body of the hub, rotor mount bosses, and spoke holes. If any damage is present, it’s advised to consult a trained mechanic, or your local Spank distributor, or Sales and Service Center for inspection and advice.
   
3. Remove the adapter caps from your hub, and thoroughly clean hub internals and adapter caps of any contaminants. Check that the adapter cap o-ring seals are in good condition, and not cracked or torn.
   
4. With your finger, roll the bearings on both ends of the hub body a few time, checking for any scratchy feeling or crunching sounds. Bearings should rotate smoothly and silently. If any bearing damage is noticed, it’s a good idea to replace your hub bearings before they are compromised, which could lead to other hub issues.
   
5. Re-lubricate all surfaces of hub internals thoroughly, and ensure that all internal parts are aligned, allowing the fork axle to pass through the hub.
   
6. Replace left and right hub adapter caps, and brake rotor.

Quick Answer: First determine whether you need to change adapters on front or rear hubs, and then which model of hub you have. Then refer to directions below for your specific hub and adapter type. Be sure that you have sourced the correct adapter for your hub, by referring to FAQ 1C.1, “Which adapter do I need to convert my Spank hubs to fit my frame or fork?”

Spike and Oozy Front Hubs:

1. Remove old adapters:

20mm Adapters – simply pull off the left and right adapters by hand.
QR or 15mm Adapters - Insert an Allen key or similar tool through the right side adapter, and push the left side adapter out from the inside. Then reverse and push the right side adapter out from the left side.

 

2. Before applying new desired specification adapter caps, check carefully that the internal axle shaft inside the hub, is centered and aligned with the bearings on each side. The axle shaft should be fixed in place snugly. If it is excessively loose, or can “rattle” inside the hub shell, this indicates your bearings have moved when removing adapter caps. In such case the bearings must be repressed. It is suggested bearing service is only performed by a trained mechanic with the correct tools/equipment.

3. Lubricate new adapters with grease before assembly.

4. Carefully align new adapters with bearings, and press in firmly by hand, until the o-ring seal engages with the hub body completely.

5. Finally measure your hub from left adapter cap to right adapter cap (O.L.D.), to ensure it is the correct width.

20mm = 110mm
15mm = 100mm
QR = 100mm
Boost 15mm = 110mm
Boost 20mm = 110mm

If your hub measures wider than it should, it indicates your bearings have moved during disassembly, and should be repressed by a trained mechanic with the correct tools/equipment.

 

Spike and Oozy Rear Hubs:

1. Pull the non-drive side cap off the hub by hand. It may take a little wiggling and effort if it has been on the hub for a long time, but it should slip off relatively easily.

2. With the non-drive side cap removed, the hub’s internal axle shaft is exposed. The axle shaft has a 2mm wide slot on its end. Use a 2mm thick tool, such as a pedal wrench or similar, to secure the axle shaft using the slot. Your tool should fit snugly into the slot. Do not use a tool that is less than 2mm in thickness. This could lead to damaging your axle shaft.

3. With the axle shaft secured, use a 17mm wrench to remove the right drive side adapter cap, by turning it counter clockwise.

4. Lubricate both ends of your axle shaft, and internals of new adapter caps.

5. Replace the drive side adapter cap with the desired specification, and tighten to 6-8 Nm, while securing the axle shaft on the non-drive side with your 2mm thick tool.

6. Replace the non-drive side adapter cap with the matching desired new adapter specification, and push it firmly onto the axle shaft until it is flush with the hub body.

7. Finally measure your hub from left adapter cap to right adapter cap (O.L.D.), to ensure it is the correct width (example 12x142mm = 142mm O.L.D.).

 

Spoon Front Hubs:

Note: Spoon hubs were discontinued in 2016. Spoon hubs were used to assemble Spike Race 28 EVO, and Spoon 32 wheelsets between 2011 and 2015.

1. Remove old adapters

20mm Adapters – simply pull off the left and right adapters by hand.
QR or 15mm Adapters - Insert an Allen key or similar tool through the right side adapter, and push the left side adapter out from the inside. Then reverse and push the right side adapter out from the left side.

 

2. Before applying new desired specification adapter caps, check carefully that the internal axle shaft inside the hub, is centered and aligned with the bearings on each side.

3. Clean and lubricate hub internals, and lubricate new adapters with grease before assembly.

4. Carefully align new adapters with bearings, and press in firmly by hand, until the o-ring seal engages with the hub body completely.

5. Finally measure your hub from left adapter cap to right adapter cap (O.L.D.), to ensure it is the correct width.

20mm = 110mm
15mm = 100mm
QR = 100mm
Boost 15mm = 110mm
Boost 20mm = 110mm

If your hub measures wider than it should, it indicates your bearings have moved during disassembly, and should be repressed by a trained mechanic with the correct tools/equipment.

 

Spoon Rear Hubs:

Note: Spoon hubs were discontinued in 2016. Spoon hubs were used to assemble Spike Race 28 EVO, and Spoon 32 wheelsets between 2011 and 2015.

1. Using a 17mm wrench, secure the drive side (right side) of the internal axle shaft.

2. Using a second 17mm wrench, twist off the adapter cap on the non-drive side (left side) of the hub, in a counter clockwise direction.

3. Once the non-drive side adapter cap is removed, slide the internal axle shaft out through the drive side of the hub by hand.

4. Clean and lubricate hub internals, and new axle shaft and adapter cap.

5. Insert new axle shaft into hub through the drive side, until threads are exposed on the non-drive side.

6. Apply new adapter cap onto the non-drive side, and tighten using a 17mm wrench to 8-10Nm.

7. Finally measure your hub from left adapter cap to right adapter cap (O.L.D.), to ensure it is the correct width (example 12x142mm = 142mm O.L.D.).

Quick Answer: First determine whether you need to change adapters on front or rear hubs, and then which model of hub you have. Then refer to directions below for your specific hub and adapter type. Be sure that you have sourced the correct adapter for your hub, by referring to FAQ 1C.1, “Which adapter do I need to convert my Spank hubs to fit my frame or fork?”

Spike and Oozy Front Hubs:

1. Remove old adapters:

20mm Adapters – simply pull off the left and right adapters by hand.
QR or 15mm Adapters - Insert an Allen key or similar tool through the right side adapter, and push the left side adapter out from the inside. Then reverse and push the right side adapter out from the left side.

 

2. Before applying new desired specification adapter caps, check carefully that the internal axle shaft inside the hub, is centered and aligned with the bearings on each side. The axle shaft should be fixed in place snugly. If it is excessively loose, or can “rattle” inside the hub shell, this indicates your bearings have moved when removing adapter caps. In such case the bearings must be repressed. It is suggested bearing service is only performed by a trained mechanic with the correct tools/equipment.

3. Lubricate new adapters with grease before assembly.

4. Carefully align new adapters with bearings, and press in firmly by hand, until the o-ring seal engages with the hub body completely.

5. Finally measure your hub from left adapter cap to right adapter cap (O.L.D.), to ensure it is the correct width.

20mm = 110mm
15mm = 100mm
QR = 100mm
Boost 15mm = 110mm
Boost 20mm = 110mm

If your hub measures wider than it should, it indicates your bearings have moved during disassembly, and should be repressed by a trained mechanic with the correct tools/equipment.

 

Spike and Oozy Rear Hubs:

1. Pull the non-drive side cap off the hub by hand. It may take a little wiggling and effort if it has been on the hub for a long time, but it should slip off relatively easily.

2. With the non-drive side cap removed, the hub’s internal axle shaft is exposed. The axle shaft has a 2mm wide slot on its end. Use a 2mm thick tool, such as a pedal wrench or similar, to secure the axle shaft using the slot. Your tool should fit snugly into the slot. Do not use a tool that is less than 2mm in thickness. This could lead to damaging your axle shaft.

3. With the axle shaft secured, use a 17mm wrench to remove the right drive side adapter cap, by turning it counter clockwise.

4. Lubricate both ends of your axle shaft, and internals of new adapter caps.

5. Replace the drive side adapter cap with the desired specification, and tighten to 6-8 Nm, while securing the axle shaft on the non-drive side with your 2mm thick tool.

6. Replace the non-drive side adapter cap with the matching desired new adapter specification, and push it firmly onto the axle shaft until it is flush with the hub body.

7. Finally measure your hub from left adapter cap to right adapter cap (O.L.D.), to ensure it is the correct width (example 12x142mm = 142mm O.L.D.).

 

Spoon Front Hubs:

Note: Spoon hubs were discontinued in 2016. Spoon hubs were used to assemble Spike Race 28 EVO, and Spoon 32 wheelsets between 2011 and 2015.

1. Remove old adapters

20mm Adapters – simply pull off the left and right adapters by hand.
QR or 15mm Adapters - Insert an Allen key or similar tool through the right side adapter, and push the left side adapter out from the inside. Then reverse and push the right side adapter out from the left side.

 

2. Before applying new desired specification adapter caps, check carefully that the internal axle shaft inside the hub, is centered and aligned with the bearings on each side.

3. Clean and lubricate hub internals, and lubricate new adapters with grease before assembly.

4. Carefully align new adapters with bearings, and press in firmly by hand, until the o-ring seal engages with the hub body completely.

5. Finally measure your hub from left adapter cap to right adapter cap (O.L.D.), to ensure it is the correct width.

20mm = 110mm
15mm = 100mm
QR = 100mm
Boost 15mm = 110mm
Boost 20mm = 110mm

If your hub measures wider than it should, it indicates your bearings have moved during disassembly, and should be repressed by a trained mechanic with the correct tools/equipment.

 

Spoon Rear Hubs:

Note: Spoon hubs were discontinued in 2016. Spoon hubs were used to assemble Spike Race 28 EVO, and Spoon 32 wheelsets between 2011 and 2015.

1. Using a 17mm wrench, secure the drive side (right side) of the internal axle shaft.

2. Using a second 17mm wrench, twist off the adapter cap on the non-drive side (left side) of the hub, in a counter clockwise direction.

3. Once the non-drive side adapter cap is removed, slide the internal axle shaft out through the drive side of the hub by hand.

4. Clean and lubricate hub internals, and new axle shaft and adapter cap.

5. Insert new axle shaft into hub through the drive side, until threads are exposed on the non-drive side.

6. Apply new adapter cap onto the non-drive side, and tighten using a 17mm wrench to 8-10Nm.

7. Finally measure your hub from left adapter cap to right adapter cap (O.L.D.), to ensure it is the correct width (example 12x142mm = 142mm O.L.D.).

Quick Answer: Both Shimano HG and SRAM XG freehubs are available and compatible with your Spank rear hub. First, determine which hub model you have, and that you have the correct freehub body. Then, refer to directions below.
Note: Special directions apply for SRAM XD freehub bodies. For directions on how to change your Shimano freehub body to a SRAM XD freehub body, please see below.

 

 

Shimano standard freehubs are splined, and do not require changing the drive side or non-drive side adapter cap when replacing.

 

SRAM XD standard freehubs are threaded. It is required to change the drive side adapter cap when updating a hub from Shimano standard freehub to SRAM XD standard freehub.

 

Oozy and Spike Rear Hubs – Shimano HG Standard Freehubs

Note: To remove your original freehub body, you must first remove the adapter caps from the drive side and non-drive side of your hub.

Pull the non-drive side cap off the hub by hand. It may take a little wiggling and effort if it has been on the hub for a long time, but it should slip off relatively easily.
With the non-drive side cap removed, the hub’s internal axle shaft is exposed. The axle shaft has a 2mm wide slot on its end.
Use a 2mm thick tool, such as a pedal wrench or similar, to secure the axle shaft using the slot. Your tool should fit snugly into the slot. Do not use a tool that is less than 2mm in thickness. This could lead to damaging your axle shaft.
With the axle shaft secured, use a 17mm wrench to remove the right drive side adapter cap, by turning it counter clockwise.
Once the adapters have been removed, the freehub body is free to take off the hub. It may take a little wiggling to disengage the freehub pawls from the hub’s ratchet ring, but it should slip off with little effort.
Remove the silver spacer ring that comes with the freehub, from the hub’s axle shaft.
Check to ensure the black rubber freehub seal, has been removed along with the freehub body. A new one is supplied with your new freehub body.
Clean and lubricate hub internals..
Apply the new silver spacer ring that came with your new freehub body over the axle shaft.
Check that all pawls and springs are present on your new freehub body, and all can move inward and outward smoothly.
Lubricate the inside and outside of the new freehub body. Mount the freehub over the axle shaft, and slide it into place in the hub body, until pawls engage with the ratchet ring. This may require depressing the pawls around the freehub body, before it can be fully inserted into the hub.
Replace the drive side adapter cap with the desired specification, and tighten to 6-8 Nm, while securing the axle shaft on the non-drive side with your 2mm thick tool.
Replace the non-drive side adapter cap with the matching desired new adapter specification, and push it firmly onto the axle shaft until it is flush with the hub body.
Finally measure your hub from left adapter cap to right adapter cap (O.L.D.), to ensure it is the correct width (example 12x142mm = 142mm O.L.D.).

 

 

Oozy and Spike Rear Hubs – SRAM XD Standard Freehubs

Pull the non-drive side cap off the hub by hand. It may take a little wiggling and effort if it has been on the hub for a long time, but it should slip off relatively easily.
With the non-drive side cap removed, the hub’s internal axle shaft is exposed. The axle shaft has a 2mm wide slot on its end.
Use a 2mm thick tool, such as a pedal wrench or similar, to secure the axle shaft using the slot. Your tool should fit snugly into the slot. Do not use a tool that is less than 2mm in thickness. This could lead to damaging your axle shaft.
With the axle shaft secured, use a 17mm wrench to remove the right drive side adapter cap, by turning it counter clockwise.
Once the adapters have been removed, the freehub body is free to take off the hub. It may take a little wiggling to disengage the freehub pawls from the hub’s ratchet ring, but it should slip off with little effort.
Remove the silver spacer ring that comes with the freehub, from the hub’s axle shaft.
Check to ensure the black rubber freehub seal, has been removed along with the freehub body. A new one is supplied with your new freehub body.
Clean and lubricate hub internals.
Apply the new silver spacer ring that came with your new XD freehub body. XD freehub spacers are a different specification than Shimano HG standard freehub spacers.
Lubricate the inside and outside of the new XD freehub body. Mount the freehub over the axle shaft, and slide it into place in the hub body, until pawls engage with the ratchet ring. This may require depressing the pawls around the freehub body, before it can be fully inserted into the hub.
Replace the Shimano right (drive side) adapter cap with the desired XD Freehub right adapter cap, (example XD R 12x142), and tighten to 6-8 Nm, while securing the axle shaft on the non-drive side with your 2mm thick tool. Right or Drive Side Shimano standard adapter caps are not compatible with XD freehubs. XD standard drive side adapter caps are clearly marked and have 2 flanges, where Shimano adapter caps always have only 1 flange.
Replace the non-drive side adapter cap with the desired adapter specification, (example XD/SH L 12x142) and push it firmly onto the axle shaft until it is flush with the hub body. Left (non-drive side) adapters are compatible with both XD and Shimano freehubs.
Finally measure your hub from left adapter cap to right adapter cap (O.L.D.), to ensure it is the correct width (example 12x142mm = 142mm O.L.D.).

Spoon Rear Hubs

Note: Spoon hubs were discontinued in 2016. Spoon hubs were used to assemble Spike Race 28 EVO, and Spoon 32 wheelsets between 2011 and 2015.

Directions to replace a Shimano standard freehub body, or to change to an XD standard freehub body, are the same.

To remove your original freehub body, you must first remove the adapter cap from the non-drive side of the hub, and axle shaft from the drive side of the hub.

Using a 17mm wrench, secure the drive side (right side) of the internal axle shaft.
Using a second 17mm wrench, twist off the adapter cap on the non-drive side (left side) of the hub, in a counter clockwise direction.
Once the non-drive side adapter cap has been removed, the freehub and internal axle shaft are free to be taken off the hub. It may take a little wiggle to disengage the freehub pawls from the hub’s ratchet ring, but they should slide off with little effort.
Remove the freehub body and silver spacer ring that comes with the freehub, from the hub’s axle shaft.
Check to ensure the black rubber freehub seal, has been removed along with the freehub body and is not caught inside the hub body. A new one is supplied with your new freehub body.
Clean and lubricate hub internals and axle shaft.
Lubricate the inside and outside of the new freehub body. Mount the new freehub body and silver spacer ring, over the axle shaft, and slide it into place in the hub body, until pawls engage with the ratchet ring. This may require depressing the pawls around the freehub body by finger or with a pointed tool, before it can be fully inserted into the hub.
Lubricate and apply new non-drive side adapter cap onto the non-drive side of the axle shaft, and tighten using a 17mm wrench to 8-10Nm.
Finally measure your hub from left adapter cap to right adapter cap (O.L.D.), to ensure it is the correct width (example 12x142mm = 142mm O.L.D.).

Quick Answer: Both Shimano HG and SRAM XG freehubs are available and compatible with your Spank rear hub. First, determine which hub model you have, and that you have the correct freehub body. Then, refer to directions below.
Note: Special directions apply for SRAM XD freehub bodies. For directions on how to change your Shimano freehub body to a SRAM XD freehub body, please see below.

 

 

Shimano standard freehubs are splined, and do not require changing the drive side or non-drive side adapter cap when replacing.

 

SRAM XD standard freehubs are threaded. It is required to change the drive side adapter cap when updating a hub from Shimano standard freehub to SRAM XD standard freehub.

 

Oozy and Spike Rear Hubs – Shimano HG Standard Freehubs

Note: To remove your original freehub body, you must first remove the adapter caps from the drive side and non-drive side of your hub.

Pull the non-drive side cap off the hub by hand. It may take a little wiggling and effort if it has been on the hub for a long time, but it should slip off relatively easily.
With the non-drive side cap removed, the hub’s internal axle shaft is exposed. The axle shaft has a 2mm wide slot on its end.
Use a 2mm thick tool, such as a pedal wrench or similar, to secure the axle shaft using the slot. Your tool should fit snugly into the slot. Do not use a tool that is less than 2mm in thickness. This could lead to damaging your axle shaft.
With the axle shaft secured, use a 17mm wrench to remove the right drive side adapter cap, by turning it counter clockwise.
Once the adapters have been removed, the freehub body is free to take off the hub. It may take a little wiggling to disengage the freehub pawls from the hub’s ratchet ring, but it should slip off with little effort.
Remove the silver spacer ring that comes with the freehub, from the hub’s axle shaft.
Check to ensure the black rubber freehub seal, has been removed along with the freehub body. A new one is supplied with your new freehub body.
Clean and lubricate hub internals..
Apply the new silver spacer ring that came with your new freehub body over the axle shaft.
Check that all pawls and springs are present on your new freehub body, and all can move inward and outward smoothly.
Lubricate the inside and outside of the new freehub body. Mount the freehub over the axle shaft, and slide it into place in the hub body, until pawls engage with the ratchet ring. This may require depressing the pawls around the freehub body, before it can be fully inserted into the hub.
Replace the drive side adapter cap with the desired specification, and tighten to 6-8 Nm, while securing the axle shaft on the non-drive side with your 2mm thick tool.
Replace the non-drive side adapter cap with the matching desired new adapter specification, and push it firmly onto the axle shaft until it is flush with the hub body.
Finally measure your hub from left adapter cap to right adapter cap (O.L.D.), to ensure it is the correct width (example 12x142mm = 142mm O.L.D.).

 

 

Oozy and Spike Rear Hubs – SRAM XD Standard Freehubs

Pull the non-drive side cap off the hub by hand. It may take a little wiggling and effort if it has been on the hub for a long time, but it should slip off relatively easily.
With the non-drive side cap removed, the hub’s internal axle shaft is exposed. The axle shaft has a 2mm wide slot on its end.
Use a 2mm thick tool, such as a pedal wrench or similar, to secure the axle shaft using the slot. Your tool should fit snugly into the slot. Do not use a tool that is less than 2mm in thickness. This could lead to damaging your axle shaft.
With the axle shaft secured, use a 17mm wrench to remove the right drive side adapter cap, by turning it counter clockwise.
Once the adapters have been removed, the freehub body is free to take off the hub. It may take a little wiggling to disengage the freehub pawls from the hub’s ratchet ring, but it should slip off with little effort.
Remove the silver spacer ring that comes with the freehub, from the hub’s axle shaft.
Check to ensure the black rubber freehub seal, has been removed along with the freehub body. A new one is supplied with your new freehub body.
Clean and lubricate hub internals.
Apply the new silver spacer ring that came with your new XD freehub body. XD freehub spacers are a different specification than Shimano HG standard freehub spacers.
Lubricate the inside and outside of the new XD freehub body. Mount the freehub over the axle shaft, and slide it into place in the hub body, until pawls engage with the ratchet ring. This may require depressing the pawls around the freehub body, before it can be fully inserted into the hub.
Replace the Shimano right (drive side) adapter cap with the desired XD Freehub right adapter cap, (example XD R 12x142), and tighten to 6-8 Nm, while securing the axle shaft on the non-drive side with your 2mm thick tool. Right or Drive Side Shimano standard adapter caps are not compatible with XD freehubs. XD standard drive side adapter caps are clearly marked and have 2 flanges, where Shimano adapter caps always have only 1 flange.
Replace the non-drive side adapter cap with the desired adapter specification, (example XD/SH L 12x142) and push it firmly onto the axle shaft until it is flush with the hub body. Left (non-drive side) adapters are compatible with both XD and Shimano freehubs.
Finally measure your hub from left adapter cap to right adapter cap (O.L.D.), to ensure it is the correct width (example 12x142mm = 142mm O.L.D.).

Spoon Rear Hubs

Note: Spoon hubs were discontinued in 2016. Spoon hubs were used to assemble Spike Race 28 EVO, and Spoon 32 wheelsets between 2011 and 2015.

Directions to replace a Shimano standard freehub body, or to change to an XD standard freehub body, are the same.

To remove your original freehub body, you must first remove the adapter cap from the non-drive side of the hub, and axle shaft from the drive side of the hub.

Using a 17mm wrench, secure the drive side (right side) of the internal axle shaft.
Using a second 17mm wrench, twist off the adapter cap on the non-drive side (left side) of the hub, in a counter clockwise direction.
Once the non-drive side adapter cap has been removed, the freehub and internal axle shaft are free to be taken off the hub. It may take a little wiggle to disengage the freehub pawls from the hub’s ratchet ring, but they should slide off with little effort.
Remove the freehub body and silver spacer ring that comes with the freehub, from the hub’s axle shaft.
Check to ensure the black rubber freehub seal, has been removed along with the freehub body and is not caught inside the hub body. A new one is supplied with your new freehub body.
Clean and lubricate hub internals and axle shaft.
Lubricate the inside and outside of the new freehub body. Mount the new freehub body and silver spacer ring, over the axle shaft, and slide it into place in the hub body, until pawls engage with the ratchet ring. This may require depressing the pawls around the freehub body by finger or with a pointed tool, before it can be fully inserted into the hub.
Lubricate and apply new non-drive side adapter cap onto the non-drive side of the axle shaft, and tighten using a 17mm wrench to 8-10Nm.
Finally measure your hub from left adapter cap to right adapter cap (O.L.D.), to ensure it is the correct width (example 12x142mm = 142mm O.L.D.).

Quick Answer: Spring and Pawl replacement kits are available from Spank, for all old and newer version hubs and freehub bodies. Before ordering a spring and pawl replacement kit, it’s important to first confirm the hub model and version you have, as well as the type of freehub body.
Spike and Oozy Rear Hubs:

Spike J-Hook hubs, and Oozy Straightpull hubs, share freehub bodies, spring and pawls, and other adapters and service parts.

 

2011-2018 Oozy 28 hole hubs, Oozy 32 hole hubs, and Spike 32 hole hubs – use a 3 pawl and spring system with a 30T ratchet ring. Only Oozy/Spike 3 pawl and spring replacement kits are compatible with these hubs.

 

Part Name: OOZY / SPIKE Rear Hub 3 Pawl & Spring Kit
Part Number: C08KTOZ050AMSPK

Replacing Pawls and Springs on Spike and Oozy Hubs:

First remove each of the old or damaged pawls from the pawl seats on the freehub body. Pawls should slide vertically out of the freehub body smoothly.
With all three pawls removed, the springs will be freed. Remove each of the springs in a vertical direction from the spring seats.
Clean your freehub body thoroughly. Check all pawl seats on the freehub body for any deformation, bulging, discoloration, cracking or damage. If any damage exists, your freehub body should be replaced immediately. Do not insert new pawls or springs into damaged pawl seats on freehub bodies.
Insert each new spring into the left side of each pawl seat, with the flat surface of the spring pointing outward, and the short curved section of the spring pointing inward.
Once all three springs have been mounted into the left side of each pawl seat, then one by one depress the springs, and insert the steel pawls into the right side of each pawl seat. The pawl springs should sit under each pawl, pushing it outward.
Depress each pawl to ensure smooth and quick motion and rebound to outward position.
Once pawls and springs are assembled, lubricate the outer surface and tip of each pawl with a hub grease, or light weight, pure bike grease. Be careful not to get too much lubrication into the spring area, as it can lead to pawls becoming stuck in a depressed position.
Spoon Rear Hubs:

Spoon J-hook hubs were produced between 2011 and 2016, and only Spoon spring and pawl kits are compatible with Spoon hubs and freehub bodies. However, there are two different types of systems depending on the age of your hub. To confirm the version you have, remove the freehub body, and count the number of pawls on its outer perimeter.

 

2011-2014 (March) Spoon 32 hole J-Hook Hubs – use a 3 pawl and spring system, with a 26T ratchet. Only Spoon 3 pawl and spring replacement kits are compatible with these hubs.

Part Name: Spoon Hub 3 Pawl & Spring Replacement Kit
Part Number: C08KT10AM000SPK

2014 (April) – 2016 Spoon 32 hole Hubs – use a 4 pawl and spring system, with a 30T ratchet. Only Spoon 4 pawl and spring replacement kits are compatible with these hubs.

 

Part Name: SPOON 135/150 Rear Hub 4 Pawl & Spring Kit
Part Number: C08KT13AM000SPK

Quick Answer: Spring and Pawl replacement kits are available from Spank, for all old and newer version hubs and freehub bodies. Before ordering a spring and pawl replacement kit, it’s important to first confirm the hub model and version you have, as well as the type of freehub body.
Spike and Oozy Rear Hubs:

Spike J-Hook hubs, and Oozy Straightpull hubs, share freehub bodies, spring and pawls, and other adapters and service parts.

 

2011-2018 Oozy 28 hole hubs, Oozy 32 hole hubs, and Spike 32 hole hubs – use a 3 pawl and spring system with a 30T ratchet ring. Only Oozy/Spike 3 pawl and spring replacement kits are compatible with these hubs.

 

Part Name: OOZY / SPIKE Rear Hub 3 Pawl & Spring Kit
Part Number: C08KTOZ050AMSPK

Replacing Pawls and Springs on Spike and Oozy Hubs:

First remove each of the old or damaged pawls from the pawl seats on the freehub body. Pawls should slide vertically out of the freehub body smoothly.
With all three pawls removed, the springs will be freed. Remove each of the springs in a vertical direction from the spring seats.
Clean your freehub body thoroughly. Check all pawl seats on the freehub body for any deformation, bulging, discoloration, cracking or damage. If any damage exists, your freehub body should be replaced immediately. Do not insert new pawls or springs into damaged pawl seats on freehub bodies.
Insert each new spring into the left side of each pawl seat, with the flat surface of the spring pointing outward, and the short curved section of the spring pointing inward.
Once all three springs have been mounted into the left side of each pawl seat, then one by one depress the springs, and insert the steel pawls into the right side of each pawl seat. The pawl springs should sit under each pawl, pushing it outward.
Depress each pawl to ensure smooth and quick motion and rebound to outward position.
Once pawls and springs are assembled, lubricate the outer surface and tip of each pawl with a hub grease, or light weight, pure bike grease. Be careful not to get too much lubrication into the spring area, as it can lead to pawls becoming stuck in a depressed position.
Spoon Rear Hubs:

Spoon J-hook hubs were produced between 2011 and 2016, and only Spoon spring and pawl kits are compatible with Spoon hubs and freehub bodies. However, there are two different types of systems depending on the age of your hub. To confirm the version you have, remove the freehub body, and count the number of pawls on its outer perimeter.

 

2011-2014 (March) Spoon 32 hole J-Hook Hubs – use a 3 pawl and spring system, with a 26T ratchet. Only Spoon 3 pawl and spring replacement kits are compatible with these hubs.

Part Name: Spoon Hub 3 Pawl & Spring Replacement Kit
Part Number: C08KT10AM000SPK

2014 (April) – 2016 Spoon 32 hole Hubs – use a 4 pawl and spring system, with a 30T ratchet. Only Spoon 4 pawl and spring replacement kits are compatible with these hubs.

 

Part Name: SPOON 135/150 Rear Hub 4 Pawl & Spring Kit
Part Number: C08KT13AM000SPK

Quick Answer: Spank makes available both steel and alloy axle shafts for all Oozy, Spike and Spoon rear hubs. If your axle shaft is damaged, it should be replaced immediately, or can lead to permanent damage or premature failure of your hub, which can be dangerous. Replacing axle shafts should be performed by a trained mechanic, with the correct tools. In some cases it is required to repress bearings into hub bodies when replacing axle shafts.
The internal axle shaft within your rear hub, is the shaft that runs through the center of the hub, where your frame axle, bolt on axle, or QR axle is inserted through the hub, to fasten the hub to your frame. If your axle shaft is damaged, or you wish to change to a lighter axle, or stronger axle, Spank offers several options.

Spike and Oozy Rear Hubs – Internal axle shafts are independent from adapters, and are available in 135/142mm, Boost 148mm, and 150/157mm sizes, and both Alloy or Steel materials. Alloy axles are recommended for riders looking to weight optimize their wheels, however are not as durable as steel options. Steel axle shafts are recommended for extreme riding disciplines or terrain, or for heavier riders who are hard on components.

In the exploded view below, the axle shaft is part number 2. Oozy and Spike hubs share the same assembly parts and configuration.

 

 

It is highly suggested that only a trained mechanic, with the correct tools, performs service to remove old axle shafts and/or replace new ones.

To remove your old axle shaft, the following steps should be taken:

Pull the non-drive side cap off the hub by hand. It may take a little wiggling and effort if it has been on the hub for a long time, but it should slip off relatively easily.
With the non-drive side cap removed, the hub’s internal axle shaft is exposed. The axle shaft has a 2mm wide slot on its end. Use a 2mm thick tool, such as a pedal wrench or similar, to secure the axle shaft using the slot. Your tool should fit snugly into the slot. Do not use a tool that is less than 2mm in thickness. This could lead to damaging your axle shaft.
With the axle shaft secured, use a 17mm wrench to remove the right drive side adapter cap, by turning it counter clockwise.
Once both adapter caps have been removed, carefully slide the freehub body and silver freehub spacer ring off the axle shaft by hand. Note: check carefully that all pawls and springs stay in place within the freehub body as it is removed.
With the freehub body removed, turn the hub so the non-drive side is facing upwards. Tap the end of the axle shaft with a soft mallet (rubber or wood), on the non-drive side, until the axle shaft and drive side bearing exit the hub body through the drive side of the hub.
With the axle shaft and drive side bearing removed, clean and lubricate hub internals thoroughly.
Replace the axle shaft by hand with the new desired specification, through the drive side of the hub body, until it is flush with the non-drive side bearing, and cannot be inserted further. Do not force the axle shaft roughly, as it could move or damage the non-drive side bearing and retention c-clip.
Replace the drive side bearing over the axle shaft with the red seal facing outward, and press into hub body until flush. When pressing bearings, pressure should only be applied to the outer race of the bearing. This step requires a bearing press fixture to perform properly. Tapping bearings into hub bodies can damage the bearing and/or bearing bore permanently, so is not recommended.
Check that the bearings are both pressed completely, by attempting to wiggle the axle shaft inward and outward. If the axle shaft can move back and forth at all, then the bearing has not been inserted fully, and must be pressed until flush.
Replace the silver freehub spacer ring over the drive side of the axle shaft.
Replace the freehub body over the drive side of the axle shaft. Press it into the hub until it is flush, and the black freehub seal is concealed within the hub. No gap between hub body and freehub should exist. In some cases the pawls of the freehub will need to be depressed using a small pointed tool, to allow the freehub to insert fully into the hub body.
Replace the drive side adapter cap with the desired specification, and tighten to 6-8 Nm, while securing the axle shaft on the non-drive side with your 2mm thick tool.
Replace the non-drive side adapter cap with the desired new adapter specification (matching drive side adapter cap), and push it firmly onto the axle shaft until it is flush with the hub body.
To ensure the assembly was performed correctly, measure your hub from end to end. If you are using 12x142mm adapter caps (for example), then the width of the hub from end to end should equal 142mm.

 

Spoon Rear Hubs – In Spoon rear hubs, the axle shaft serves to act as the drive side hub adapter in conjunction with a non-drive side adapter cap. Spoon axles are available in QRx135mm, 10x135mm, 12x135mm, and 12x142mm for Spoon 135 Rear Hubs, and in 12x150mm and 12x157mm for Spoon 150 Rear Hubs.

Note: Spoon hubs were discontinued in 2016. Spoon hubs were used to assemble Spike Race 28 EVO, and Spoon 32 wheelsets between 2011 and 2015.

 

 

To replace your axle shaft, the following steps should be taken:

Using a 17mm wrench, secure the drive side (right side) of the internal axle shaft.
Using a second 17mm wrench, twist off the adapter cap on the non-drive side (left side) of the hub, in a counter clockwise direction.
Once the non-drive side adapter cap is removed, slide the internal axle shaft out through the drive side of the hub by hand.
Clean and lubricate hub internals, and new axle shaft and adapter cap.
Insert new axle shaft of desired specification into hub through the drive side, until threads are exposed on the non-drive side.
Apply new adapter cap of desired specification onto the non-drive side, and tighten using two 17mm wrenches to 8-10Nm for steel axle shafts, and max 8Nm for alloy axle shafts.

Quick Answer: Spank makes available both steel and alloy axle shafts for all Oozy, Spike and Spoon rear hubs. If your axle shaft is damaged, it should be replaced immediately, or can lead to permanent damage or premature failure of your hub, which can be dangerous. Replacing axle shafts should be performed by a trained mechanic, with the correct tools. In some cases it is required to repress bearings into hub bodies when replacing axle shafts.
The internal axle shaft within your rear hub, is the shaft that runs through the center of the hub, where your frame axle, bolt on axle, or QR axle is inserted through the hub, to fasten the hub to your frame. If your axle shaft is damaged, or you wish to change to a lighter axle, or stronger axle, Spank offers several options.

Spike and Oozy Rear Hubs – Internal axle shafts are independent from adapters, and are available in 135/142mm, Boost 148mm, and 150/157mm sizes, and both Alloy or Steel materials. Alloy axles are recommended for riders looking to weight optimize their wheels, however are not as durable as steel options. Steel axle shafts are recommended for extreme riding disciplines or terrain, or for heavier riders who are hard on components.

In the exploded view below, the axle shaft is part number 2. Oozy and Spike hubs share the same assembly parts and configuration.

 

 

It is highly suggested that only a trained mechanic, with the correct tools, performs service to remove old axle shafts and/or replace new ones.

To remove your old axle shaft, the following steps should be taken:

Pull the non-drive side cap off the hub by hand. It may take a little wiggling and effort if it has been on the hub for a long time, but it should slip off relatively easily.
With the non-drive side cap removed, the hub’s internal axle shaft is exposed. The axle shaft has a 2mm wide slot on its end. Use a 2mm thick tool, such as a pedal wrench or similar, to secure the axle shaft using the slot. Your tool should fit snugly into the slot. Do not use a tool that is less than 2mm in thickness. This could lead to damaging your axle shaft.
With the axle shaft secured, use a 17mm wrench to remove the right drive side adapter cap, by turning it counter clockwise.
Once both adapter caps have been removed, carefully slide the freehub body and silver freehub spacer ring off the axle shaft by hand. Note: check carefully that all pawls and springs stay in place within the freehub body as it is removed.
With the freehub body removed, turn the hub so the non-drive side is facing upwards. Tap the end of the axle shaft with a soft mallet (rubber or wood), on the non-drive side, until the axle shaft and drive side bearing exit the hub body through the drive side of the hub.
With the axle shaft and drive side bearing removed, clean and lubricate hub internals thoroughly.
Replace the axle shaft by hand with the new desired specification, through the drive side of the hub body, until it is flush with the non-drive side bearing, and cannot be inserted further. Do not force the axle shaft roughly, as it could move or damage the non-drive side bearing and retention c-clip.
Replace the drive side bearing over the axle shaft with the red seal facing outward, and press into hub body until flush. When pressing bearings, pressure should only be applied to the outer race of the bearing. This step requires a bearing press fixture to perform properly. Tapping bearings into hub bodies can damage the bearing and/or bearing bore permanently, so is not recommended.
Check that the bearings are both pressed completely, by attempting to wiggle the axle shaft inward and outward. If the axle shaft can move back and forth at all, then the bearing has not been inserted fully, and must be pressed until flush.
Replace the silver freehub spacer ring over the drive side of the axle shaft.
Replace the freehub body over the drive side of the axle shaft. Press it into the hub until it is flush, and the black freehub seal is concealed within the hub. No gap between hub body and freehub should exist. In some cases the pawls of the freehub will need to be depressed using a small pointed tool, to allow the freehub to insert fully into the hub body.
Replace the drive side adapter cap with the desired specification, and tighten to 6-8 Nm, while securing the axle shaft on the non-drive side with your 2mm thick tool.
Replace the non-drive side adapter cap with the desired new adapter specification (matching drive side adapter cap), and push it firmly onto the axle shaft until it is flush with the hub body.
To ensure the assembly was performed correctly, measure your hub from end to end. If you are using 12x142mm adapter caps (for example), then the width of the hub from end to end should equal 142mm.

 

Spoon Rear Hubs – In Spoon rear hubs, the axle shaft serves to act as the drive side hub adapter in conjunction with a non-drive side adapter cap. Spoon axles are available in QRx135mm, 10x135mm, 12x135mm, and 12x142mm for Spoon 135 Rear Hubs, and in 12x150mm and 12x157mm for Spoon 150 Rear Hubs.

Note: Spoon hubs were discontinued in 2016. Spoon hubs were used to assemble Spike Race 28 EVO, and Spoon 32 wheelsets between 2011 and 2015.

 

 

To replace your axle shaft, the following steps should be taken:

Using a 17mm wrench, secure the drive side (right side) of the internal axle shaft.
Using a second 17mm wrench, twist off the adapter cap on the non-drive side (left side) of the hub, in a counter clockwise direction.
Once the non-drive side adapter cap is removed, slide the internal axle shaft out through the drive side of the hub by hand.
Clean and lubricate hub internals, and new axle shaft and adapter cap.
Insert new axle shaft of desired specification into hub through the drive side, until threads are exposed on the non-drive side.
Apply new adapter cap of desired specification onto the non-drive side, and tighten using two 17mm wrenches to 8-10Nm for steel axle shafts, and max 8Nm for alloy axle shafts.

Quick Answer: Bearing replacement kits are available for all Spank hubs, from your authorized Spank dealer, distributor, or sales and service center. Spank hubs use standard size bearings, however they are packed to specific tolerances to optimize hub performance. Please refer to the list below for bearing sizes.
Warning: It is highly recommended that only a trained mechanic with the correct tools performs service to remove and/or replace hub bearings. Failure to follow correct procedure, or attempts to pull bearings without a blind eye bearing puller, or press bearings without a suitable bearing press tool, can lead to premature bearing and/or hub failure.

Spike and Oozy Rear Hubs – Spank Spike and Oozy Rear hubs contain 2 bearings in the hub body. Shimano HG freehub bodies contain 2 bearings. SRAM XD standard freehub bodies contain 3 bearings. All are replaceable.

Spike/Oozy 135/142mm and Boost 148mm Rear Hub Bodies – 2 x #6902 Bearings
Spike 150/157mm Rear Hub Bodies – 1 x #6902 / 1 x #6002 Bearings
Spike/Oozy Shimano HG Freehub Bodies – 2 x #6902 Bearings
Spike/Oozy SRAM XD Freehub Bodies – 3 x #6802 Bearings

Spike and Oozy Front Hubs – Spank Spike and Oozy front hubs contain 2 bearings in the hub body. Both are replaceable.

Spike/Oozy Front Hubs – 2 x #6804 Bearing

Spoon Rear Hubs – Spank Spoon 135 and Spoon 150 Rear hubs contain 2 bearings in the hub body, and 2 bearings in the freehub body. All are replaceable.

Spoon 135 Rear Hub Bodies – 2 x #6902 Bearing
Spoon 150 Rear Hub Bodies – 2 x #6902 Bearing
Spoon Shimano HG Freehub Bodies – 2 x #6902 Bearing
Spoon Front Hubs – Spank Spoon 20 Front hubs contain 2 bearings in the hub body. Both are replaceable.

Spoon 20 Front Hub Bodies – 2 x #6804 Bearing
Note: Spoon hubs were discontinued in 2016. Spoon hubs were used to assemble Spike Race 28 EVO, and Spoon 32 wheelsets between 2011 and 2015. From 2016 all Spank wheels utilize Spike or Oozy hubs.

 

Replacing Bearings in Spank Hubs

It is highly suggested that pulling old or damaged bearings, and pressing new bearings into hubs or freehub bodies, is only performed by a qualified mechanic with the correct tools and equipment. If performed incorrectly, permanent damage can be caused to the hub body or freehub, which can shorten lifespan and/or lead to premature failure and possible injury.

For step by step directions on replacing hub bearings, please view an instructional video at this link.

Quick Answer: Bearing replacement kits are available for all Spank hubs, from your authorized Spank dealer, distributor, or sales and service center. Spank hubs use standard size bearings, however they are packed to specific tolerances to optimize hub performance. Please refer to the list below for bearing sizes.
Warning: It is highly recommended that only a trained mechanic with the correct tools performs service to remove and/or replace hub bearings. Failure to follow correct procedure, or attempts to pull bearings without a blind eye bearing puller, or press bearings without a suitable bearing press tool, can lead to premature bearing and/or hub failure.

Spike and Oozy Rear Hubs – Spank Spike and Oozy Rear hubs contain 2 bearings in the hub body. Shimano HG freehub bodies contain 2 bearings. SRAM XD standard freehub bodies contain 3 bearings. All are replaceable.

Spike/Oozy 135/142mm and Boost 148mm Rear Hub Bodies – 2 x #6902 Bearings
Spike 150/157mm Rear Hub Bodies – 1 x #6902 / 1 x #6002 Bearings
Spike/Oozy Shimano HG Freehub Bodies – 2 x #6902 Bearings
Spike/Oozy SRAM XD Freehub Bodies – 3 x #6802 Bearings

Spike and Oozy Front Hubs – Spank Spike and Oozy front hubs contain 2 bearings in the hub body. Both are replaceable.

Spike/Oozy Front Hubs – 2 x #6804 Bearing

Spoon Rear Hubs – Spank Spoon 135 and Spoon 150 Rear hubs contain 2 bearings in the hub body, and 2 bearings in the freehub body. All are replaceable.

Spoon 135 Rear Hub Bodies – 2 x #6902 Bearing
Spoon 150 Rear Hub Bodies – 2 x #6902 Bearing
Spoon Shimano HG Freehub Bodies – 2 x #6902 Bearing
Spoon Front Hubs – Spank Spoon 20 Front hubs contain 2 bearings in the hub body. Both are replaceable.

Spoon 20 Front Hub Bodies – 2 x #6804 Bearing
Note: Spoon hubs were discontinued in 2016. Spoon hubs were used to assemble Spike Race 28 EVO, and Spoon 32 wheelsets between 2011 and 2015. From 2016 all Spank wheels utilize Spike or Oozy hubs.

 

Replacing Bearings in Spank Hubs

It is highly suggested that pulling old or damaged bearings, and pressing new bearings into hubs or freehub bodies, is only performed by a qualified mechanic with the correct tools and equipment. If performed incorrectly, permanent damage can be caused to the hub body or freehub, which can shorten lifespan and/or lead to premature failure and possible injury.

For step by step directions on replacing hub bearings, please view an instructional video at this link.

Quick Answer: If you are building a set of Spank rims, with Spank hubs, then please click this link, to view a complete Spank wheelset spoke and nipple specification chart.

Note: Spank uses both standard external type, and DSN type nipples in our hand built wheelsets. DSN nipples require spokes that are 2mm longer than standard external nipples. Your nipple type must be taken into account when sourcing spoke lengths.

Note: Spank ERD calculations on rims, always show a special “++” callout. Please click this link to view a complete explanation of Spank ERD calculations and the “++” callout. You must always include 2X the nipple head height, into any spoke length calculations. Nipple head height is not included in Spank’s ERD calculation.

When calculating spoke length for a custom wheelset using Spank hubs, please refer to dimensions shown below:

Straight Pull PCD

 

Spank

Front - Spank Hex J-Type Boost F15/20

 

Front - Spank Hex J-Type F15/20

 

Front - Spank Hex Gravel F12/15

 

Front - Spank Hex Straightpull Boost Front

 

Rear - Spank Hex J-Type R150/157

 

Rear - Spank Hex J-Type Boost R148

 

Rear - Spank Hex J-Type R135/142

 

Rear - Spank Hex Gravel R135/142

 

Rear - Spank Hex Straightpull Boost R148

 

Rear - Spank Hex SS-DJ

 

Spike

Front - Spike 20/15 Hub

 

Front - Spike Boost F15/20 Hub

 

Rear - Spike 135/142 Hub

 

Rear - Spike 150/157 Hub

 

Rear - Spike Boost 148 Hub

 

OOZY

Front - Oozy 15/20 Hub

 

Rear - Oozy 142/135 Hub

 

Front - Oozy Boost 15 Hub

 

Rear - Oozy Boost 148 Hub

 

Spoon

Front - Spoon 20 Hub

 

Rear - Spoon 135 Hub

 

Rear - Spoon 150 Hub

In order for your SPANK Hex drive hub to operate properly, please see the pictorial reference below for correct placement of the axle/freehub spacers and end cap configuration for your chosen free hub body. Additional details can be found on our YouTube channel by clicking here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3K0Ub-hYMs

Quick Answer:

Spike Pedals – Downhill, Freeride, Bike Park, Dirtjump

Oozy Pedals – Trail, Enduro, All Mountain

Spoon 90 Pedals – All Round MTB - Ladies / Kids / Small Footed Riders

Spoon 100 Pedals – All Round MTB – Average Size Riders

Spoon 110 Pedals – All Round MTB – Larger Riders / Winter Riding
Spank has developed the right flat pedal for every MTB enthusiast.

Spike Pedals are designed to take the abuse of Downhill and Freeride, with high load strength and impact resistance, and 20 pins per pedal to maximize traction and security in rough terrain at high speeds. Spike pedals are constructed of forged alloy bodies and forged chromoly axles, and have reinforced frontal impact areas. If your riding style sees you often doing big jumps and/or drops, and frequent impacts with rocks and other obstacles, Spike pedals are recommended for you. Spike pedals are designed to fit a wide range of shoe sizes, with a 100x100mm pedal body. So, unless you are a rider with very small feet, or exceptionally large feet, Spike pedals should fit you perfectly.

 

 

Oozy Pedals are based on the same design as Spike pedals, and also fit a wide range of shoe sizes, with a 100x100mm platform size. Oozy pedals have however been highly CNC weight optimized, to meet the weight restrictions of discerning trail, all mountain, and enduro riders. Oozy pedals have a similar high load strength to Spike pedals due to forged alloy bodies and forged chromoly axles, however have much thinner impact areas, so are not recommended for riders who frequently impacts with rocks and other obstacles at speed.

 

 

Spoon 90 Pedals are designed for all round MTB use, including downhill and freeride, but are sized specifically to fit smaller riders with shoes size US 6 / EU 39 and under. Spoon 90 Pedals have a 90x100mm platform size, which offers high a level of support to the foot, while still positioning the pins around the outer perimeter of the shoe for max traction.

 

 

Spoon 100 Pedals are designed for all round MTB use, including downhill and freeride. Spoon 100 pedals are sized for the average rider, with a 100x100mm platform size, and are best suited for shoe sizes US 7-10 / EU 39-45.

 

 

Spoon 110 Pedals are designed for all round MTB use, including downhill and freeride. Spoon 110 pedals are sized for riders with larger feet, or riders that often ride in boots (for example fat bike snow riders), and are best suited for shoe sizes US 11 / EU 46, and up, or wide footwear.

Quick Answer:

Spike Pedals – Downhill, Freeride, Bike Park, Dirtjump

Oozy Pedals – Trail, Enduro, All Mountain

Spoon 90 Pedals – All Round MTB - Ladies / Kids / Small Footed Riders

Spoon 100 Pedals – All Round MTB – Average Size Riders

Spoon 110 Pedals – All Round MTB – Larger Riders / Winter Riding
Spank has developed the right flat pedal for every MTB enthusiast.

Spike Pedals are designed to take the abuse of Downhill and Freeride, with high load strength and impact resistance, and 20 pins per pedal to maximize traction and security in rough terrain at high speeds. Spike pedals are constructed of forged alloy bodies and forged chromoly axles, and have reinforced frontal impact areas. If your riding style sees you often doing big jumps and/or drops, and frequent impacts with rocks and other obstacles, Spike pedals are recommended for you. Spike pedals are designed to fit a wide range of shoe sizes, with a 100x100mm pedal body. So, unless you are a rider with very small feet, or exceptionally large feet, Spike pedals should fit you perfectly.

 

 

Oozy Pedals are based on the same design as Spike pedals, and also fit a wide range of shoe sizes, with a 100x100mm platform size. Oozy pedals have however been highly CNC weight optimized, to meet the weight restrictions of discerning trail, all mountain, and enduro riders. Oozy pedals have a similar high load strength to Spike pedals due to forged alloy bodies and forged chromoly axles, however have much thinner impact areas, so are not recommended for riders who frequently impacts with rocks and other obstacles at speed.

 

 

Spoon 90 Pedals are designed for all round MTB use, including downhill and freeride, but are sized specifically to fit smaller riders with shoes size US 6 / EU 39 and under. Spoon 90 Pedals have a 90x100mm platform size, which offers high a level of support to the foot, while still positioning the pins around the outer perimeter of the shoe for max traction.

 

 

Spoon 100 Pedals are designed for all round MTB use, including downhill and freeride. Spoon 100 pedals are sized for the average rider, with a 100x100mm platform size, and are best suited for shoe sizes US 7-10 / EU 39-45.

 

 

Spoon 110 Pedals are designed for all round MTB use, including downhill and freeride. Spoon 110 pedals are sized for riders with larger feet, or riders that often ride in boots (for example fat bike snow riders), and are best suited for shoe sizes US 11 / EU 46, and up, or wide footwear.

Quick Answer: Regular pedal maintenance includes inspection, cleaning, and lubricating of your pedals assembly parts, and internals, including bearings, bushings, seals, and axles. As a minimum it’s suggested that at least twice per season, you perform regular maintenance. If you ride more than a couple times per week, and/or you frequently ride in exceptionally wet or dusty/sandy conditions, or if you live in a coastal area, it’s suggested that maintenance is performed more regularly.

Spank pedals run on sealed industrial bearings, and IGUS self-lubricating bushings, so have been built with quality and longevity in mind. That said, it is important with any pedals to perform regular maintenance to ensure long life, and consistent function and performance. The regularity of service depends highly on the amount you ride, the type of riding you do, and the environment you ride in most.

It is highly suggested that regular maintenance, and/or any replacement of parts, such as worn bushings or seals, or compromised bearings, be performed by a trained mechanic, with the correct tools/equipment.

Spike and Oozy Pedal Regular Maintenance

 

It is important to note that Spank Oozy and Spike pedals were updated in 2015. Pedals produced between 2011 and 2014, have black rubber friction seals at the inboard end, between axle and pedal body, and have serial numbers starting with L11-L14. Pedals produced in 2015 or later, use bright green friction seals, and have serial numbers starting with L15 or higher. Axles and black friction seals used in 2011-2014 pedals are not compatible with 2015 or later pedals. Axles and green friction seals used in 2015 and later pedals, are not compatible with 2011-2014 pedals.

Spank Industries and our distributors supply both 2011-2014 pedal service parts, and 2015 and later pedal service parts. It is important to select the correct version for your pedals.

1. Before servicing your pedals, grasp each firmly by hand, while still assembled to your cranks, and check for any side to side, or up and down play, between the pedal body and axle. If any play exists, please refer to section 2.3 of Spank’s FAQ (My Spank pedals have developed play. What do I do?). You may require some service parts, before disassembling your pedals. If no play exists, proceed to step 2 of regular pedal maintenance.

2. Using your finger tip, check that the dust cap on each pedal is able to spin freely of the pedal body and axle. It should be snug, but should be able to rotate independently. If it is seized (normally due to an impact), and cannot be turned, it may need to be replaced to ensure optimal performance.

3. Always remove pedals from cranks before performing any service. Remove pedals from the crank arms using an 8mm Allen tool, from the back of the crank. Be careful not to lose the pedal/crank washers, which can remain stuck to the pedal axle or crank arm.

4. Be careful not to mix left and right pedal axles. Left pedal axles are marked with a machined line, on the underside of the axle flange. Left pedal bodies are marked with a laser etched serial code. Other pedal parts are interchangeable between left and right pedals. It is suggested to service one pedal at a time.

 

5. Use a 10mm wrench to secure the lock nut on the outboard end of the pedal axle. With the locknut secured, use an 8mm Allen tool at the inboard end of the axle, to loosen and remove lock nut and axle.

 

6. Remove all assembly parts from the outboard end of the axle, including the lock-nut, dust-cap, o-ring seal, and 0.2mm shim washer.

 

7. Gently push the axle out of the pedal, from the outboard end. Axles may seize slightly inside the pedal body after considerable use, and may require some force.

8. Carefully remove the friction seal from the axle and pedal body.

Spike pedals produced from 2011-2014 have black rubber over brass friction seals. In this case you must be very careful not to damage the friction seal as you remove it. Once removed, make sure the friction seal is flat and smooth, and straighten any kinks or deformation before reuse.
Spike and Oozy pedals produced from 2015 forward, have bright green silicon friction seals, which are more resilient.

 

9. With the axle and friction seal removed, use the outboard end of the axle to push out the IGUS bushing from inside the pedal body.

 

10. Thoroughly clean all small parts, axle, and pedal body internals.

11. Inspect the O-ring seal for any cracks, wear, or flat spots. If any such damage exists, it should be replaced.

12. Inspect your dust cap for any dents, or deformation. If damaged, it should be replaced.

13. Inspect your IGUS bushings for excessive wear to the inner surfaces, or to the flanges. If your IGUS bushings are worn, they should be replaced.

14. Inspect your pedal axles carefully, removing any contamination, and ensuring axles are straight, and not deformed, cracked, or bent in any way.

15. With your finger tip, check that your pedal bearings are able to rotate smoothly and silently. If any grinding or crunching feeling exists, your bearings may be compromised and should be replaced. Pedal bearings should only be pulled from pedal bodies, and new bearings pressed into pedal bodies, by a trained mechanic with the correct tools/equipment. A blind eye bearing puller is required to remove bearings. Attempts to tap out old bearings can damage your pedals, and lead to premature failure.

16. Insert undamaged or new IGUS bushing into the outboard end of your pedal body by hand, and press until it is completely flush with the pedal body.

 

17. Lubricate your pedal axle, and pedal body internals thoroughly.

 

18. If your pedals were produced in 2015 or later, and use a bright green silicon friction seal, at this point your friction seal should be mounted to the pedal axle, ensuring it is fixed into the machined groove on the axle flange, (If your pedals are from 2011-2014, and use a black rubber friction seal, it can be applied to the axle in step 24, after the pedal body and axle have been assembled).

 

19. Insert your undamaged or new pedal axle into the pedal body through the inboard end, and press firmly to ensure the axle is flush with the pedal bearing, and bearing is inserted fully into the pedal body. In the case of 2015 or newer pedals (using green friction seals), check carefully that the friction seal is fit snugly into the machined grooves on both the pedal axle, and pedal body.

 

20. Apply the 0.2mm stainless shim washer over axle tip, against the IGUS bushing.

 

21. Apply your undamaged or new O-ring seal over the axle tip, against the 0.2mm stainless shim washer. Lubricate the O-ring seal.

 

22. Apply your undamaged or new CNC dustcap over the O-ring seal, enclosing it within. Check carefully that the dustcap sits flush over the O-ring, and can spin freely on top of the O-ring, without interference.

 

23. Lock-nuts should be used (tightened) no more than two times, before their locking function is decreased. It is suggested that each time your pedals are serviced, a new lock nut is used, for maximum security. Lubricate the axle threads. Apply your undamaged or new locknut over the axle tip, flush against the CNC dustcap. Using a 10mm wrench to secure the locknut, tighten the axle in place with an 8mm Allen tool. Axle/Locknut should then be tightened to 10 Nm.

 

24. If your pedals are from 2011-2014, and use a black rubber friction seal, at this point it can be applied over the crank end of the axle, and snapped into the machined grooves on both pedal body and axle, by hand. If your pedals are from 2015 or later, use your finger to press the green friction seal into the seal notch. Check that the green friction seals are engaged snuggly into grooves on both axles and pedal bodies.

 

 

 

Spoon 90, 100, 110 pedals regular service

 

Note: It is important to note, that Spoon 90 (small) pedals have different axles, bushings, and seals than Spoon 100 (medium) and Spoon 110 (large) pedals. Before replacing any damaged or worn parts, please make sure to identify the pedals you have, and ensure you have purchased the correct size assembly parts.

SPOON90 pedal

Body MGR extruded alloy
Rear Load Pins M4 x 9mm (12pcs)
Front Load Pins M4 x 6mm (8pcs)
Axle Cold forged chromoly steel
Washer 17x12.7x0.5mm stainless washer
Friction Seal Green Friction Seal
Bushing 10x12x10mm IGUS Bushing
Bearing Full Compliment Sealed Bearing
Axle nut Stainless nylon lock-nut
End plug O-Ring 10x1.8mm O-Ring
End plug MGR alloy

 

 

SPOON100/110 pedal

Body MGR extruded alloy
Rear Load Pins M4 x 9mm (12pcs)
Front Load Pins M4 x 6mm (8pcs)
Axle Cold forged chromoly steel
Washer 17x12.7x0.5mm stainless washer
Friction Seal Black Friction Seal
Bushing 11x13x10mm IGUS Bushing
Bearing Full Compliment Sealed Bearing
Axle nut Stainless nylon lock-nut
End plug O-Ring 10x1.8mm O-Ring
End plug MGR alloy

 

1. Before servicing your pedals, grasp each firmly by hand, while still assembled to your cranks, and check for any side to side, or up and down play, between the pedal body and axle. A small amount of play which can be felt by hand but not during riding is usually acceptable. However if your pedals have developed enough play that it can be felt or heard during riding, you may need to inspect for damaged or worn parts, and/or replace bushings, seals, or bearings.

2. Always remove pedals from cranks before performing any service. Remove pedals from the crank arms using an 8mm Allen tool, from the back of the crank. Be careful not to lose the pedal/crank washers, which can remain stuck to the pedal axle or crank arm.

3. Be careful not to mix left and right pedal axles and other assembly parts. Left pedal axles are marked with a machined line, on the underside of the axle flange. Left pedal bodies are marked with a laser etched serial code. Other pedal parts are interchangeable between left and right pedals. It is suggested to service one pedal at a time.

 

Machined line on underside of axle flange, indicates left pedal axle. Laser serial code on pedal body indicates left bodies.

 

4. Insert a small flat head screw driver into the slot on the end cap at the outboard end of your pedal, and pry out the end cap out from the pedal.

 

5. Inspect your end cap to ensure that the O-ring seal is still intact and undamaged. If it is worn or broken, it should be replaced. If the O-ring is intact, clean the end cap of any contaminants.

 

6. With the end cap removed, the axle lock-nut is exposed. Using an 8mm socket wrench, secure the lock-nut in place. Once lock-nut is secured, use an 8mm Allen tool at the inboard (crank end) of your axle, to loosen and remove axle and lock nut in a counter clockwise direction.

 

7. Carefully remove the axle, stainless washer, and friction seal from the pedal body. Spoon 90 pedals require bright green friction seals, while Spoon 100 and 110 pedals require black friction seals.

 

8. Clean and inspect your pedal axles carefully, removing any contamination, and ensuring axles are straight, and not deformed, cracked, or bent in any way.

9. Inspect your friction seal carefully for any cracks, wear, or flat spots. If any such damage exists, it should be replaced.

10. With your finger tip, check that your pedal bearing is able to rotate smoothly and silently. If any grinding or crunching feeling exists, your bearings may be compromised and should be replaced. Bearing replacements are available from authorized Spank dealers or distributors.

11. If the bearing must be replaced, it can be removed using an 8mm Allen tool, by pushing it out from the opposite end of the pedal.

 

12. Once the axle has been removed, the yellow IGUS bushing at the inboard end of your pedal will be exposed. Clean and inspect it carefully for any wear or damage. Fit between axle and bushing should be relatively snug, allowing free motion, but not excessive play. If the IGUS bushing is worn, or damaged, it should be removed and replaced.

13. If the IGUS bushing must be replaced, it can be levered from the pedal body using the tip of your pedal axle. If the bushing is difficult to remove, it can be grasped using a #5 screw extractor tool, and pulled from the pedal body.

 

14. Inspect all pedal parts, and pedal internals for any corrosion, damage, or contaminants, and clean thoroughly.

15. If you have removed your IGUS bushing, insert new bushing with the chamfer on the outer diameter facing into the pedal body, and the chamfer on the inner diameter facing out of the pedal body. Push the bushing into the pedal body until it is flush and cannot be inserted further. Your old IGUS bushing can be used as a tool to press the new one deeply into the pedal body.

 

 

 

16. If you have removed your sealed bearing, then clean and lubricate the bearing bore in your pedal body with grease. New bearings can be stacked on top of two old worn bearings, to carefully press into your pedal body. Ensure new bearings are pressed until flush in the pedal body and cannot be inserted further.

 

17. Lubricate the outward facing part of your bearing, as well as the pedal body internals, before inserting friction seals. Friction seals must be inserted with curved face outwards as shown below. Insert the friction seal fully until it snaps into place securely in the pedal body.

 

 

 

18. Lubricate your entire axle generously with waterproof grease, especially on threaded end, and polished bushing and bearing surfaces, and apply stainless washer over the axle until it is flush with the axle flange.

 

19. Lubricate the stainless washer generously with waterproof grease.

 

20. Insert the axle into your pedal body, until the stainless washer is flush with the friction seal.

 

21. Using an 8mm socket tool and 8mm Allen tool, tighten the locknut to 6 Nm.

 

22. Lubricate your end cap, and pedal internals generously with waterproof grease, and insert the end cap into the pedal body completely.

 

23. Check that the O-ring seal on your end cap does not protrude through the slot in the end cap. If it does, it can be tucked back into place using your small flathead screwdriver.

Quick Answer: Regular pedal maintenance includes inspection, cleaning, and lubricating of your pedals assembly parts, and internals, including bearings, bushings, seals, and axles. As a minimum it’s suggested that at least twice per season, you perform regular maintenance. If you ride more than a couple times per week, and/or you frequently ride in exceptionally wet or dusty/sandy conditions, or if you live in a coastal area, it’s suggested that maintenance is performed more regularly.

Spank pedals run on sealed industrial bearings, and IGUS self-lubricating bushings, so have been built with quality and longevity in mind. That said, it is important with any pedals to perform regular maintenance to ensure long life, and consistent function and performance. The regularity of service depends highly on the amount you ride, the type of riding you do, and the environment you ride in most.

It is highly suggested that regular maintenance, and/or any replacement of parts, such as worn bushings or seals, or compromised bearings, be performed by a trained mechanic, with the correct tools/equipment.

Spike and Oozy Pedal Regular Maintenance

 

It is important to note that Spank Oozy and Spike pedals were updated in 2015. Pedals produced between 2011 and 2014, have black rubber friction seals at the inboard end, between axle and pedal body, and have serial numbers starting with L11-L14. Pedals produced in 2015 or later, use bright green friction seals, and have serial numbers starting with L15 or higher. Axles and black friction seals used in 2011-2014 pedals are not compatible with 2015 or later pedals. Axles and green friction seals used in 2015 and later pedals, are not compatible with 2011-2014 pedals.

Spank Industries and our distributors supply both 2011-2014 pedal service parts, and 2015 and later pedal service parts. It is important to select the correct version for your pedals.

1. Before servicing your pedals, grasp each firmly by hand, while still assembled to your cranks, and check for any side to side, or up and down play, between the pedal body and axle. If any play exists, please refer to section 2.3 of Spank’s FAQ (My Spank pedals have developed play. What do I do?). You may require some service parts, before disassembling your pedals. If no play exists, proceed to step 2 of regular pedal maintenance.

2. Using your finger tip, check that the dust cap on each pedal is able to spin freely of the pedal body and axle. It should be snug, but should be able to rotate independently. If it is seized (normally due to an impact), and cannot be turned, it may need to be replaced to ensure optimal performance.

3. Always remove pedals from cranks before performing any service. Remove pedals from the crank arms using an 8mm Allen tool, from the back of the crank. Be careful not to lose the pedal/crank washers, which can remain stuck to the pedal axle or crank arm.

4. Be careful not to mix left and right pedal axles. Left pedal axles are marked with a machined line, on the underside of the axle flange. Left pedal bodies are marked with a laser etched serial code. Other pedal parts are interchangeable between left and right pedals. It is suggested to service one pedal at a time.

 

5. Use a 10mm wrench to secure the lock nut on the outboard end of the pedal axle. With the locknut secured, use an 8mm Allen tool at the inboard end of the axle, to loosen and remove lock nut and axle.

 

6. Remove all assembly parts from the outboard end of the axle, including the lock-nut, dust-cap, o-ring seal, and 0.2mm shim washer.

 

7. Gently push the axle out of the pedal, from the outboard end. Axles may seize slightly inside the pedal body after considerable use, and may require some force.

8. Carefully remove the friction seal from the axle and pedal body.

Spike pedals produced from 2011-2014 have black rubber over brass friction seals. In this case you must be very careful not to damage the friction seal as you remove it. Once removed, make sure the friction seal is flat and smooth, and straighten any kinks or deformation before reuse.
Spike and Oozy pedals produced from 2015 forward, have bright green silicon friction seals, which are more resilient.

 

9. With the axle and friction seal removed, use the outboard end of the axle to push out the IGUS bushing from inside the pedal body.

 

10. Thoroughly clean all small parts, axle, and pedal body internals.

11. Inspect the O-ring seal for any cracks, wear, or flat spots. If any such damage exists, it should be replaced.

12. Inspect your dust cap for any dents, or deformation. If damaged, it should be replaced.

13. Inspect your IGUS bushings for excessive wear to the inner surfaces, or to the flanges. If your IGUS bushings are worn, they should be replaced.

14. Inspect your pedal axles carefully, removing any contamination, and ensuring axles are straight, and not deformed, cracked, or bent in any way.

15. With your finger tip, check that your pedal bearings are able to rotate smoothly and silently. If any grinding or crunching feeling exists, your bearings may be compromised and should be replaced. Pedal bearings should only be pulled from pedal bodies, and new bearings pressed into pedal bodies, by a trained mechanic with the correct tools/equipment. A blind eye bearing puller is required to remove bearings. Attempts to tap out old bearings can damage your pedals, and lead to premature failure.

16. Insert undamaged or new IGUS bushing into the outboard end of your pedal body by hand, and press until it is completely flush with the pedal body.

 

17. Lubricate your pedal axle, and pedal body internals thoroughly.

 

18. If your pedals were produced in 2015 or later, and use a bright green silicon friction seal, at this point your friction seal should be mounted to the pedal axle, ensuring it is fixed into the machined groove on the axle flange, (If your pedals are from 2011-2014, and use a black rubber friction seal, it can be applied to the axle in step 24, after the pedal body and axle have been assembled).

 

19. Insert your undamaged or new pedal axle into the pedal body through the inboard end, and press firmly to ensure the axle is flush with the pedal bearing, and bearing is inserted fully into the pedal body. In the case of 2015 or newer pedals (using green friction seals), check carefully that the friction seal is fit snugly into the machined grooves on both the pedal axle, and pedal body.

 

20. Apply the 0.2mm stainless shim washer over axle tip, against the IGUS bushing.

 

21. Apply your undamaged or new O-ring seal over the axle tip, against the 0.2mm stainless shim washer. Lubricate the O-ring seal.

 

22. Apply your undamaged or new CNC dustcap over the O-ring seal, enclosing it within. Check carefully that the dustcap sits flush over the O-ring, and can spin freely on top of the O-ring, without interference.

 

23. Lock-nuts should be used (tightened) no more than two times, before their locking function is decreased. It is suggested that each time your pedals are serviced, a new lock nut is used, for maximum security. Lubricate the axle threads. Apply your undamaged or new locknut over the axle tip, flush against the CNC dustcap. Using a 10mm wrench to secure the locknut, tighten the axle in place with an 8mm Allen tool. Axle/Locknut should then be tightened to 10 Nm.

 

24. If your pedals are from 2011-2014, and use a black rubber friction seal, at this point it can be applied over the crank end of the axle, and snapped into the machined grooves on both pedal body and axle, by hand. If your pedals are from 2015 or later, use your finger to press the green friction seal into the seal notch. Check that the green friction seals are engaged snuggly into grooves on both axles and pedal bodies.

 

 

 

Spoon 90, 100, 110 pedals regular service

 

Note: It is important to note, that Spoon 90 (small) pedals have different axles, bushings, and seals than Spoon 100 (medium) and Spoon 110 (large) pedals. Before replacing any damaged or worn parts, please make sure to identify the pedals you have, and ensure you have purchased the correct size assembly parts.

SPOON90 pedal

Body MGR extruded alloy
Rear Load Pins M4 x 9mm (12pcs)
Front Load Pins M4 x 6mm (8pcs)
Axle Cold forged chromoly steel
Washer 17x12.7x0.5mm stainless washer
Friction Seal Green Friction Seal
Bushing 10x12x10mm IGUS Bushing
Bearing Full Compliment Sealed Bearing
Axle nut Stainless nylon lock-nut
End plug O-Ring 10x1.8mm O-Ring
End plug MGR alloy

 

 

SPOON100/110 pedal

Body MGR extruded alloy
Rear Load Pins M4 x 9mm (12pcs)
Front Load Pins M4 x 6mm (8pcs)
Axle Cold forged chromoly steel
Washer 17x12.7x0.5mm stainless washer
Friction Seal Black Friction Seal
Bushing 11x13x10mm IGUS Bushing
Bearing Full Compliment Sealed Bearing
Axle nut Stainless nylon lock-nut
End plug O-Ring 10x1.8mm O-Ring
End plug MGR alloy

 

1. Before servicing your pedals, grasp each firmly by hand, while still assembled to your cranks, and check for any side to side, or up and down play, between the pedal body and axle. A small amount of play which can be felt by hand but not during riding is usually acceptable. However if your pedals have developed enough play that it can be felt or heard during riding, you may need to inspect for damaged or worn parts, and/or replace bushings, seals, or bearings.

2. Always remove pedals from cranks before performing any service. Remove pedals from the crank arms using an 8mm Allen tool, from the back of the crank. Be careful not to lose the pedal/crank washers, which can remain stuck to the pedal axle or crank arm.

3. Be careful not to mix left and right pedal axles and other assembly parts. Left pedal axles are marked with a machined line, on the underside of the axle flange. Left pedal bodies are marked with a laser etched serial code. Other pedal parts are interchangeable between left and right pedals. It is suggested to service one pedal at a time.

 

Machined line on underside of axle flange, indicates left pedal axle. Laser serial code on pedal body indicates left bodies.

 

4. Insert a small flat head screw driver into the slot on the end cap at the outboard end of your pedal, and pry out the end cap out from the pedal.

 

5. Inspect your end cap to ensure that the O-ring seal is still intact and undamaged. If it is worn or broken, it should be replaced. If the O-ring is intact, clean the end cap of any contaminants.

 

6. With the end cap removed, the axle lock-nut is exposed. Using an 8mm socket wrench, secure the lock-nut in place. Once lock-nut is secured, use an 8mm Allen tool at the inboard (crank end) of your axle, to loosen and remove axle and lock nut in a counter clockwise direction.

 

7. Carefully remove the axle, stainless washer, and friction seal from the pedal body. Spoon 90 pedals require bright green friction seals, while Spoon 100 and 110 pedals require black friction seals.

 

8. Clean and inspect your pedal axles carefully, removing any contamination, and ensuring axles are straight, and not deformed, cracked, or bent in any way.

9. Inspect your friction seal carefully for any cracks, wear, or flat spots. If any such damage exists, it should be replaced.

10. With your finger tip, check that your pedal bearing is able to rotate smoothly and silently. If any grinding or crunching feeling exists, your bearings may be compromised and should be replaced. Bearing replacements are available from authorized Spank dealers or distributors.

11. If the bearing must be replaced, it can be removed using an 8mm Allen tool, by pushing it out from the opposite end of the pedal.

 

12. Once the axle has been removed, the yellow IGUS bushing at the inboard end of your pedal will be exposed. Clean and inspect it carefully for any wear or damage. Fit between axle and bushing should be relatively snug, allowing free motion, but not excessive play. If the IGUS bushing is worn, or damaged, it should be removed and replaced.

13. If the IGUS bushing must be replaced, it can be levered from the pedal body using the tip of your pedal axle. If the bushing is difficult to remove, it can be grasped using a #5 screw extractor tool, and pulled from the pedal body.

 

14. Inspect all pedal parts, and pedal internals for any corrosion, damage, or contaminants, and clean thoroughly.

15. If you have removed your IGUS bushing, insert new bushing with the chamfer on the outer diameter facing into the pedal body, and the chamfer on the inner diameter facing out of the pedal body. Push the bushing into the pedal body until it is flush and cannot be inserted further. Your old IGUS bushing can be used as a tool to press the new one deeply into the pedal body.

 

 

 

16. If you have removed your sealed bearing, then clean and lubricate the bearing bore in your pedal body with grease. New bearings can be stacked on top of two old worn bearings, to carefully press into your pedal body. Ensure new bearings are pressed until flush in the pedal body and cannot be inserted further.

 

17. Lubricate the outward facing part of your bearing, as well as the pedal body internals, before inserting friction seals. Friction seals must be inserted with curved face outwards as shown below. Insert the friction seal fully until it snaps into place securely in the pedal body.

 

 

 

18. Lubricate your entire axle generously with waterproof grease, especially on threaded end, and polished bushing and bearing surfaces, and apply stainless washer over the axle until it is flush with the axle flange.

 

19. Lubricate the stainless washer generously with waterproof grease.

 

20. Insert the axle into your pedal body, until the stainless washer is flush with the friction seal.

 

21. Using an 8mm socket tool and 8mm Allen tool, tighten the locknut to 6 Nm.

 

22. Lubricate your end cap, and pedal internals generously with waterproof grease, and insert the end cap into the pedal body completely.

 

23. Check that the O-ring seal on your end cap does not protrude through the slot in the end cap. If it does, it can be tucked back into place using your small flathead screwdriver.

Quick Answer: Spike and Oozy pedals produced between 2011 and 2014, have black friction seals (at the inboard end of the pedal/axle), and serial codes (on the left pedal body) starting with 11, 12, 13, or 14. Spike and Oozy pedals produced in 2015 or later have bright green friction seals, and serial codes starting with 15, 16, 17… Spoon pedals have been produced from 2015, and have not been changed or updated since.
Spank Oozy and Spike pedals were updated in 2015, with some important design changes.

Pedals produced between 2011 and 2014, have black rubber friction seals at the inboard end, between axle and pedal body, and have serial numbers starting with L11-L14.
Pedals produced in 2015 or later, use bright green friction seals, and have serial numbers starting with L15 or higher.
Spike/Oozy Pedal axles and black friction seals used in 2011-2014 pedals are not compatible with 2015 or later pedals.

Spike/Oozy Pedal axles and green friction seals used in 2015 and later pedals, are not compatible with 2011-2014 pedals.

2011-2014 version axles and black friction seals are still available from Spank Industries and authorized Spank distributors.

2015 and newer version axles and green friction seals are also available here.

Axles and friction seals are the only parts which are not compatible between pedals produced from 2011-2014, and pedals produced in 2015 or later. All other parts, including lock nuts, dust caps, O-ring seals, 0.2mm stainless shim washers, and IGUS bushings are interchangeable.

Spoon Pedals have been produced since 2015, and have not been revised to date.

However, Spoon 90 (Small) pedals do use a different size axle and bushing, than Spoon 100 (Medium) and Spoon 110 (Large) pedals.

Spoon 90 Pedal Axle Rebuild Kit

Spoon 90 Pedal Bearing/Bushing Kit

All service parts for Spoon 100 and Spoon 110 pedals are the same.

Spoon 100/110 Pedal Axle Rebuild Kit

Spoon 100/110 Pedal Bearing/Bushing Kit

 

It is important when ordering Spoon pedal service parts, that you order the correct kit for your pedals, by first determining if your pedals are Spoon 90, or if they are Spoon 100 or 110, then select the corresponding size pedal service kit.

Quick Answer: Spike and Oozy pedals produced between 2011 and 2014, have black friction seals (at the inboard end of the pedal/axle), and serial codes (on the left pedal body) starting with 11, 12, 13, or 14. Spike and Oozy pedals produced in 2015 or later have bright green friction seals, and serial codes starting with 15, 16, 17… Spoon pedals have been produced from 2015, and have not been changed or updated since.
Spank Oozy and Spike pedals were updated in 2015, with some important design changes.

Pedals produced between 2011 and 2014, have black rubber friction seals at the inboard end, between axle and pedal body, and have serial numbers starting with L11-L14.
Pedals produced in 2015 or later, use bright green friction seals, and have serial numbers starting with L15 or higher.
Spike/Oozy Pedal axles and black friction seals used in 2011-2014 pedals are not compatible with 2015 or later pedals.

Spike/Oozy Pedal axles and green friction seals used in 2015 and later pedals, are not compatible with 2011-2014 pedals.

2011-2014 version axles and black friction seals are still available from Spank Industries and authorized Spank distributors.

2015 and newer version axles and green friction seals are also available here.

Axles and friction seals are the only parts which are not compatible between pedals produced from 2011-2014, and pedals produced in 2015 or later. All other parts, including lock nuts, dust caps, O-ring seals, 0.2mm stainless shim washers, and IGUS bushings are interchangeable.

Spoon Pedals have been produced since 2015, and have not been revised to date.

However, Spoon 90 (Small) pedals do use a different size axle and bushing, than Spoon 100 (Medium) and Spoon 110 (Large) pedals.

Spoon 90 Pedal Axle Rebuild Kit

Spoon 90 Pedal Bearing/Bushing Kit

All service parts for Spoon 100 and Spoon 110 pedals are the same.

Spoon 100/110 Pedal Axle Rebuild Kit

Spoon 100/110 Pedal Bearing/Bushing Kit

 

It is important when ordering Spoon pedal service parts, that you order the correct kit for your pedals, by first determining if your pedals are Spoon 90, or if they are Spoon 100 or 110, then select the corresponding size pedal service kit.

Spank Spike and Oozy pedals have a pronounced bearing seat at the crank end of the pedal body, which sits almost flush with the crank arm. This may cause interference with some crank boots. If you wish to use protective crank boots with your Spike or Oozy pedals, it’s suggested to source boots with pedal holes no less than 27mm in diameter. If your crank boots have a hole that is less than 27mm in diameter, in most cases it’s acceptable to cut the hole to the appropriate size. You may want to check with the crank boot manufacturer first, as this may void your warranty.

Spank Spoon pedals have axle flanges which are just under 20mm in diameter. If you wish to use crank boots with your Spoon pedals, it’s suggested to source boots with pedal holes no less than 20mm in diameter. If your crank boots have a hole that is less than 20mm in diameter, in most cases it’s acceptable to cut the hole to the appropriate size. You may want to check with the crank boot manufacturer first, as this may void your warranty.

Spank Spike and Oozy pedals have a pronounced bearing seat at the crank end of the pedal body, which sits almost flush with the crank arm. This may cause interference with some crank boots. If you wish to use protective crank boots with your Spike or Oozy pedals, it’s suggested to source boots with pedal holes no less than 27mm in diameter. If your crank boots have a hole that is less than 27mm in diameter, in most cases it’s acceptable to cut the hole to the appropriate size. You may want to check with the crank boot manufacturer first, as this may void your warranty.

Spank Spoon pedals have axle flanges which are just under 20mm in diameter. If you wish to use crank boots with your Spoon pedals, it’s suggested to source boots with pedal holes no less than 20mm in diameter. If your crank boots have a hole that is less than 20mm in diameter, in most cases it’s acceptable to cut the hole to the appropriate size. You may want to check with the crank boot manufacturer first, as this may void your warranty.

Quick Answer: Spank Spike, Oozy, and Spoon pedals share the same pedal pins. Pedal pin replacement kits are available from authorized Spank dealers and distributors.
Spike/Oozy/Spoon Pedal Pin Kit: 

There are two types of pins in your Spank pedals. Shorter “front load” pins are used in the center area of your pedal bodies. Longer “rear load” pins are used in the front and back areas of your pedal bodies, and insert through the opposite side of the pedal body. This creates a virtual concavity in the pedal platform, and improves overall traction between pedal and shoes.

Spike and Oozy Pedal Pin configuration:
 

Spoon 90 / 100 / 110 Pedal Pin Configuration:

Quick Answer: Spank Spike, Oozy, and Spoon pedals share the same pedal pins. Pedal pin replacement kits are available from authorized Spank dealers and distributors.
Spike/Oozy/Spoon Pedal Pin Kit: 

There are two types of pins in your Spank pedals. Shorter “front load” pins are used in the center area of your pedal bodies. Longer “rear load” pins are used in the front and back areas of your pedal bodies, and insert through the opposite side of the pedal body. This creates a virtual concavity in the pedal platform, and improves overall traction between pedal and shoes.

Spike and Oozy Pedal Pin configuration:
 

Spoon 90 / 100 / 110 Pedal Pin Configuration:

Quick Answer: Axles and other pedal parts should be checked periodically for any damage, or corrosion. If you have damaged your pedal axle in an accident, discontinue use of your pedals immediately. Bent or broken axles can be dangerous, and can damage other parts in your pedals. Axle replacement kits are available from authorized Spank dealers and distributors. It is recommended that only a trained mechanic services pedals, and performs disassembly or assembly. Please refer to disassembly and assembly directions in “Regular Pedal Maintenance” FAQ for directions on how to replace your axles.
If you are unsure if your pedal axle is bent, spin the pedal slowly in hand with it still attached to the crank. If the pedal body wobbles upward and downward at all during rotation, the axle may be bent and should be replaced. Alternatively the axle can be removed and checked on a flat table for any deformation or damage.

Note: Spoon pedal axles are specific to size. Spoon 90 Pedal axles are different to Spoon 100 and 110 pedal axles.

 

Spoon 90 Pedal Axle Rebuild Kit

 

Spoon 100/110 Pedal Axle Rebuild Kit

 

Note: Spike and Oozy pedals were updated in 2015, and axles (as well as friction seals) were revised. It is important when replacing Spike or Oozy pedal axles that you first determine which version of pedals you have, and source the corresponding replacement axle kit. Axle replacement kits are clearly marked “2011-2014”, or “2015”.

 

Spike/Oozy Pedal Axle Rebuild Kit (2011-2014)

 

Spike/Oozy Pedal Axle Rebuild Kit (2015)

Quick Answer: Axles and other pedal parts should be checked periodically for any damage, or corrosion. If you have damaged your pedal axle in an accident, discontinue use of your pedals immediately. Bent or broken axles can be dangerous, and can damage other parts in your pedals. Axle replacement kits are available from authorized Spank dealers and distributors. It is recommended that only a trained mechanic services pedals, and performs disassembly or assembly. Please refer to disassembly and assembly directions in “Regular Pedal Maintenance” FAQ for directions on how to replace your axles.
If you are unsure if your pedal axle is bent, spin the pedal slowly in hand with it still attached to the crank. If the pedal body wobbles upward and downward at all during rotation, the axle may be bent and should be replaced. Alternatively the axle can be removed and checked on a flat table for any deformation or damage.

Note: Spoon pedal axles are specific to size. Spoon 90 Pedal axles are different to Spoon 100 and 110 pedal axles.

 

Spoon 90 Pedal Axle Rebuild Kit

 

Spoon 100/110 Pedal Axle Rebuild Kit

 

Note: Spike and Oozy pedals were updated in 2015, and axles (as well as friction seals) were revised. It is important when replacing Spike or Oozy pedal axles that you first determine which version of pedals you have, and source the corresponding replacement axle kit. Axle replacement kits are clearly marked “2011-2014”, or “2015”.

 

Spike/Oozy Pedal Axle Rebuild Kit (2011-2014)

 

Spike/Oozy Pedal Axle Rebuild Kit (2015)

Quick Answer: Pedal bearings are wearing parts, and should be replaced if not rotating smoothly and quietly. It is highly recommended that only a trained mechanic with the correct tools and equipment removes old bearings and presses in new ones. Bearings are available from authorized Spank dealers and distributors.
Spike and Oozy Pedal Bearings require a blind eye bearing puller to remove. Attempts to tap out bearings without the correct tools, can lead to damaged bearings and/or pedal bodies, and may shorten the life of your bearings and pedals, or reduce performance.

 

Examples of compatible bearing puller tools.

Spike and Oozy Pedal Bearings should only be pressed into pedals using a bearing press. Attempts to tap new bearings into pedals can damage your pedal bodies and bearings, and may lead to premature failure or reduced performance.

Spoon Pedal Bearings are specific to size. Spoon 100 and 110 pedals share the same bearing, while Spoon 90 pedals require a different size bearing. It is important to assure you have sourced the correct size bearing for your pedals.

When pressing bearings it is important that pressure is only applied to the outer race of the bearing, and never applied to the inner race. If the correct bearing press fixture is not available to you, it is possible to very carefully use your damaged/discarded bearing(s) over the top of the new bearing, as a press fixture.

For directions on how to disassemble and reassemble your Spoon pedals, and how to replace bearings, please refer to the Pedal Regular Maintenance FAQ.

Quick Answer: Pedal bearings are wearing parts, and should be replaced if not rotating smoothly and quietly. It is highly recommended that only a trained mechanic with the correct tools and equipment removes old bearings and presses in new ones. Bearings are available from authorized Spank dealers and distributors.
Spike and Oozy Pedal Bearings require a blind eye bearing puller to remove. Attempts to tap out bearings without the correct tools, can lead to damaged bearings and/or pedal bodies, and may shorten the life of your bearings and pedals, or reduce performance.

 

Examples of compatible bearing puller tools.

Spike and Oozy Pedal Bearings should only be pressed into pedals using a bearing press. Attempts to tap new bearings into pedals can damage your pedal bodies and bearings, and may lead to premature failure or reduced performance.

Spoon Pedal Bearings are specific to size. Spoon 100 and 110 pedals share the same bearing, while Spoon 90 pedals require a different size bearing. It is important to assure you have sourced the correct size bearing for your pedals.

When pressing bearings it is important that pressure is only applied to the outer race of the bearing, and never applied to the inner race. If the correct bearing press fixture is not available to you, it is possible to very carefully use your damaged/discarded bearing(s) over the top of the new bearing, as a press fixture.

For directions on how to disassemble and reassemble your Spoon pedals, and how to replace bearings, please refer to the Pedal Regular Maintenance FAQ.

A) Spike and Oozy Pedals - Vertical Play between Pedal Body and Axle

If you have noticed a small amount vertical between the pedal body and axle, it may be time to service your pedals. It is impossible to eliminate 100% of motion between axle and body, but if the play can be felt or heard while riding, it may be unacceptable. If the play is so slight that it can be felt by hand, but not felt during riding, then in all likelihood it is acceptable under tolerances.

CHECK: hold the locknut tightly, and force the pedal body up and down. If you can feel a distinct “click” as the pedal body moves up and down while the axle remains still or you can see a motion of more than roughly ½ a millimeter between the pedal body and the axle assembly, then service may be required.

1. Disassemble the affected pedal following directions in Regular Pedal Maintenance (link).
   
2. Grasp the flange of the yellow IGUS bushing between your figures and see if it moves loosely within the bushing bore of the pedal body, slips in and out without friction, or spins freely in the pedal body. IF the yellow IGUS bushing feels exceptionally loose, remove it and test a new yellow IGUS bushing for fit.
   
3. If the new bushing takes moderate force to push into the bushing bore of the pedal body (meaning it does not loosely slip into the body), and will not spin freely, then press it all the way into the pedal until it the flange of the bushing is flush with the pedal body. Before reassembling the pedal, discard your old o-ring seal, and use a new O-ring seal between the 0.2mm shim washer and dust-cap. In the vast majority of cases this should solve the issue.
   
4. If the new yellow IGUS bushing feels loose in the pedal body, or spins freely once inserted, then remove it, and try pressing in a new Copper colored Z-Type IGUS bushing. Z-type IGUS bushings are available in special cases from authorized Spank distributors.
   
5. Lubricate all parts and reassemble your pedals following assembly directions.
   
6. If play still exists, contact your local authorized Spank dealer or distributor for service, or contact us at info@spank-ind.com

B) Spike and Oozy Pedals - Horizontal / Lateral Play between Pedal Body and Axle

Between the IGUS Bushing and Lock Nut of the pedal assembly is a stainless steel dust-cap. This dust-cap encases a small O-ring seal. The O-ring seal is a wearing part, and if it has worn beyond acceptable limits, a slight amount of lateral play (toward and away from the crank arm) can develop.

IGUS bushings too can become worn, and should be checked for any damage or deterioration if lateral play in pedals becomes unacceptable.

CHECK: Leave the pedals mounted to cranks, grasp the pedal firmly in hand, and try to move it towards and away from the crank arm. If you can see the gap between the dust-cap and IGUS bushing expand and contract roughly a ½ millimeter or more, then the O-ring and/or IGUS bushing may need to be replaced.

1. Disassemble the affected pedal following directions in Regular Pedal Maintenance (link).
   
2. Examine the O-ring for any flat spots or wear.
   
3. If the O-ring is worn or flat on one or both sides, then replace it with an O-ring from aftermarket pedal service kit, or an authorized Spank distributor.
   
4. While the pedal is disassembled, also check your IGUS bushing for any wear or deterioration. The flange of the IGUS bushing which remains on the outside of the pedal body, should be symmetrical and even thickness. If it is worn, it should be replaced.
   
5. Lubricate all parts and reassemble following directions.
   
6. If play still exists, contact your local authorized Spank dealer or distributor for service, or contact us at info@spank-ind.com

A) Spike and Oozy Pedals - Vertical Play between Pedal Body and Axle

If you have noticed a small amount vertical between the pedal body and axle, it may be time to service your pedals. It is impossible to eliminate 100% of motion between axle and body, but if the play can be felt or heard while riding, it may be unacceptable. If the play is so slight that it can be felt by hand, but not felt during riding, then in all likelihood it is acceptable under tolerances.

CHECK: hold the locknut tightly, and force the pedal body up and down. If you can feel a distinct “click” as the pedal body moves up and down while the axle remains still or you can see a motion of more than roughly ½ a millimeter between the pedal body and the axle assembly, then service may be required.

1. Disassemble the affected pedal following directions in Regular Pedal Maintenance (link).
   
2. Grasp the flange of the yellow IGUS bushing between your figures and see if it moves loosely within the bushing bore of the pedal body, slips in and out without friction, or spins freely in the pedal body. IF the yellow IGUS bushing feels exceptionally loose, remove it and test a new yellow IGUS bushing for fit.
   
3. If the new bushing takes moderate force to push into the bushing bore of the pedal body (meaning it does not loosely slip into the body), and will not spin freely, then press it all the way into the pedal until it the flange of the bushing is flush with the pedal body. Before reassembling the pedal, discard your old o-ring seal, and use a new O-ring seal between the 0.2mm shim washer and dust-cap. In the vast majority of cases this should solve the issue.
   
4. If the new yellow IGUS bushing feels loose in the pedal body, or spins freely once inserted, then remove it, and try pressing in a new Copper colored Z-Type IGUS bushing. Z-type IGUS bushings are available in special cases from authorized Spank distributors.
   
5. Lubricate all parts and reassemble your pedals following assembly directions.
   
6. If play still exists, contact your local authorized Spank dealer or distributor for service, or contact us at info@spank-ind.com

B) Spike and Oozy Pedals - Horizontal / Lateral Play between Pedal Body and Axle

Between the IGUS Bushing and Lock Nut of the pedal assembly is a stainless steel dust-cap. This dust-cap encases a small O-ring seal. The O-ring seal is a wearing part, and if it has worn beyond acceptable limits, a slight amount of lateral play (toward and away from the crank arm) can develop.

IGUS bushings too can become worn, and should be checked for any damage or deterioration if lateral play in pedals becomes unacceptable.

CHECK: Leave the pedals mounted to cranks, grasp the pedal firmly in hand, and try to move it towards and away from the crank arm. If you can see the gap between the dust-cap and IGUS bushing expand and contract roughly a ½ millimeter or more, then the O-ring and/or IGUS bushing may need to be replaced.

1. Disassemble the affected pedal following directions in Regular Pedal Maintenance (link).
   
2. Examine the O-ring for any flat spots or wear.
   
3. If the O-ring is worn or flat on one or both sides, then replace it with an O-ring from aftermarket pedal service kit, or an authorized Spank distributor.
   
4. While the pedal is disassembled, also check your IGUS bushing for any wear or deterioration. The flange of the IGUS bushing which remains on the outside of the pedal body, should be symmetrical and even thickness. If it is worn, it should be replaced.
   
5. Lubricate all parts and reassemble following directions.
   
6. If play still exists, contact your local authorized Spank dealer or distributor for service, or contact us at info@spank-ind.com

Quick Answer: If your Spike or Oozy pedals have developed a “squeak” or “click”, (most common on pedals which have seen a fair amount of use, and during heavy pedaling such as uphill climbs), this normally indicates that your CNC Dustcap, IGUS bushing and/or O-ring seal should be replaced, or that it’s time to replace your bearings.

Check first that the CNC dustcaps on our pedals are free spinning. CNC Dustcaps enclose the O-ring seal on the outboard end of your Spike or Oozy pedals, under the locknut. To check if there is an issue with your CNC dustcaps, before removing your pedals from cranks, try to spin the dust cap with your finger, freely from the axle and pedal body. It should be able to rotate independently. If it is seized and will not rotate, it must be replaced. Dustcaps are available from authorized Spank distributors.

If the Dustcap is not damaged and is free spinning, then check your O-Ring seals and IGUS bushings for any wear or damage. O-Ring seals and IGUS bushings are wearing parts, and replacements can be purchased from Spank Industries or authorized Spank Industries distributors and dealers.

If IGUS bushings, and dustcaps and O-ring seals are replaced, and there is still a noise in your pedals, its likely time to replace your pedal bearings. Pedal bearings are specific to your pedals, and should be purchased from an authorized Spank dealer or distributor.

It is suggested that only a trained mechanic should service your pedals. To replace dustcaps, bushings or O-ring seals with new ones, directions on disassembly and assembly, are provided in the "Regular Pedal Maintenance" FAQ.

Quick Answer: All Spank rims, wheelsets, hubs, freehub bodies, handlebars, and saddles are marked externally with a serial code, which is required in any warranty claims. Spank stems and grips, do not have a serial code, so do not require this point on warranty claims. IF you have trouble reading this serial number, please simply take a clear close up photo and include it with your claim. 

 

Rim Serial Codes – All Spank rims are marked by dot-peening, on the inner tube well, next to the valve hole, with a 14 character code (example “46327321643-32H”).

 

Wheelset Serial Codes – All Spank wheelsets are marked with a 4 character serial code during the hand building process, on the inner tubewell of the rim, in the form of a sticker. In wheelset warranty cases involving damaged rims it’s helpful to provide both the wheelset serial number, and the rim serial number (see above). In wheelset warranty cases involving hubs, it’s helpful to provide the wheelset serial number and the hub serial number (example “0178”). 

 

Hub Serial Codes: All Spank Spike and Oozy hubs are marked by laser etch, on the exterior of the hub body or flange. Older Spoon hubs are marked by stamping on the outer hub flange. Please see examples below.

Oozy Hubs – 6 character code in the center section of the hub body (example “16CW46”)

 

Spike Hubs – 6 character code on the edge of the hub flange (example “17CW36”)

 

Spoon Hubs – 2 character code stamped into the outer face of the hub flange (example “J E”)

 

Spike and Oozy Hub Freehub Bodies – 10 character serial code laser etched onto the inner face of the freehub body (example “CHO-17  SEN-4”)

 

Spoon Hub Freehub Bodies – 4 character code laser etched onto exterior of freehub body (example "1402")

 

Handlebars – All Spank handlebars are marked by dot-peening, at the barend area (example "OZ350 17 0")

 

Saddle Serial Codes – All current Spank saddles are marked on the underside of the plastic base, with two index dials, which together make up the serial code (example “11 – 17”).